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lena_chita
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Jun 3, 2014, 1:39 PM
Post #102576 of 103211 (1248 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Made it out to the local project yesterday and put together some good links. Improved beta on both cruxes so now the thing feels sendable.

Partner brought along a super strong young guy who got an FA on the neighboring route, and made it look effortless. Sick to watch. He got the 3rd of too big to flail last winter, super talented.

If figured out the crux of my lastest quasi project. The entire crux is only about 4-5 moves long and then only 11c (or maybe easier?) to the anchors.

A couple of hard moves though on this micro crimp. finally have to give up on Nathan's beta, which consists of pulling hard and moving through the crux as quickly as you can because his hands don't actually fit on the holds, and find my own. I fortunatly have the luxery of being able to hold onto the holds a second or two longer and place my feet in a more optimal position.

That's a good start! Now send it!

I feel really bummed about the way my spring has gone. Here's hoping it would be better in the fall!


caughtinside


Jun 3, 2014, 4:36 PM
Post #102577 of 103211 (1236 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Lena, glad to hear your finger's doing so much better. Now good luck with your knee!

Quick report from me: We found a realtor, and our house should be going on the market as early as tomorrow. Allison sent on Sunday. First 12(-) for her. Woo! We're heading to a good friend's thesis defense party tonight, and then heading to the Creek first thing tomorrow AM, for most of a week. Psyched! So long, suckas!

That is awl.

GO

Didn't know you were moving? How far and how soon?

Congrats to Alison for teh s3nd!

Okay, now I can reply - the site's been fucked up all day, and only now lets me post.

Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks.

Allison also crushed in the Creek. Sending three 11s - Scarface, Three Strikes You're Out, and Power Play. Go her!

In udder news from the Creek, I finally got my big mitts to stick well enough in Way Rambo to let me send. Going tapeless was key. Got totally crushed by Power Line, though. What a sweet climb. Got a bit closer when I went with bare feet and taped toes, but still nowhere near strong enough for that shit. A lot closer on Digital Readout. But holy hell that destroys my fingers on the parts where they'll actually fit.

GO

Rumney is 3.5 hours from Yale, I don't know what you are whining about.

Congrats to Alison, Yale postdoc is an impressive achievement. Hopefully it turns out to be every bit as good as it sounds.

Rumney is a glorified bouldering ledgy chosspile.

We covered that already! It's all a matter of perspective. Living where I am, I wouldn't mind to have that sort of chosspile within 2.5 hours.

Someone bolted a thing like that nearby. Lots of 23 foot 3 bolt leads. Little rumney!


Partner wideguy


Jun 5, 2014, 10:16 AM
Post #102578 of 103211 (1169 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
[
Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks.

Hey man, puts you only 2 hours from the be-all, end-all of climbing Nirvana... Quincy Quarries!
Crazy


dr_feelgood


Jun 5, 2014, 12:48 PM
Post #102579 of 103211 (1154 views)
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Re: [wideguy] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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wideguy wrote:
cracklover wrote:
[
Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks.

Hey man, puts you only 2 hours from the be-all, end-all of climbing Nirvana... Quincy Quarries!
Crazy
Bottomfeed much?


Partner cracklover


Jun 5, 2014, 8:34 PM
Post #102580 of 103211 (1133 views)
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Re: [wideguy] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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wideguy wrote:
cracklover wrote:
[
Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks.

Hey man, puts you only 2 hours from the be-all, end-all of climbing Nirvana... Quincy Quarries!
Crazy

Wasn't some company gonna buy the Quarries and install zip lines for some kind of amusement park? That ever happen?

GO


dr_feelgood


Jun 5, 2014, 8:54 PM
Post #102581 of 103211 (1138 views)
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
wideguy wrote:
cracklover wrote:
[
Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks.

Hey man, puts you only 2 hours from the be-all, end-all of climbing Nirvana... Quincy Quarries!
Crazy

Wasn't some company gonna buy the Quarries and install zip lines for some kind of amusement park? That ever happen?

GO

Oh, great. The flies are talking to the bottomfeeders.

Fuck it man, strap me to the DoMe chair and feed me another cup of coffee, yinz.


granite_grrl


Jun 6, 2014, 5:59 AM
Post #102582 of 103211 (1123 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
cracklover wrote:
wideguy wrote:
cracklover wrote:
[
Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks.

Hey man, puts you only 2 hours from the be-all, end-all of climbing Nirvana... Quincy Quarries!
Crazy

Wasn't some company gonna buy the Quarries and install zip lines for some kind of amusement park? That ever happen?

GO

Oh, great. The flies are talking to the bottomfeeders.

Fuck it man, strap me to the DoMe chair and feed me another cup of coffee, yinz.

Unimpressed

This is my not impressed face.


granite_grrl


Jun 6, 2014, 6:03 AM
Post #102583 of 103211 (1123 views)
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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In other news, Nathan works tomorrow and I'll probably be stuck with domestic duties such as staining the deck.

On Sunday I'm doing the women's sport climbing clinic. I know that at least a few of the people showing up are really excited about it, just hope the other ones are fairly motivated too.

Also, my elbow hurts. Not sure if I have tennis elbow or if my ulnar nerve is getting irritated. The pain showed up over night and is pretty sharp so I'm leaning towards the nerve issue, but I really don't know.


Partner wideguy


Jun 6, 2014, 7:03 AM
Post #102584 of 103211 (1116 views)
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
wideguy wrote:
Hey man, puts you only 2 hours from the be-all, end-all of climbing Nirvana... Quincy Quarries!
Crazy

Wasn't some company gonna buy the Quarries and install zip lines for some kind of amusement park? That ever happen?

GO


I dunno what happened with that actually. Seems to have died a quiet death. I've been ther the last couple weekends though and no sign of zip lines. Mass state tightened the regulations regarding "adventure courses" a couple years ago so maybe it wasn't worth it to them.

The grafitti has changed but otherwise the quarries are just the same.


Partner macherry


Jun 6, 2014, 8:08 AM
Post #102585 of 103211 (1105 views)
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
cracklover wrote:
wideguy wrote:
cracklover wrote:
[
Yeah, we're moving (as I mentioned on FB) to Connecticut. Sucks for climbing aside from The Gunks. Allison got a really good postdoc at Yale, so... off we go. Moving in around three weeks.

Hey man, puts you only 2 hours from the be-all, end-all of climbing Nirvana... Quincy Quarries!
Crazy

Wasn't some company gonna buy the Quarries and install zip lines for some kind of amusement park? That ever happen?

GO

Oh, great. The flies are talking to the bottomfeeders.

Fuck it man, strap me to the DoMe chair and feed me another cup of coffee, yinz.

hah


lena_chita
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Jun 6, 2014, 9:27 AM
Post #102586 of 103211 (1094 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
In other news, Nathan works tomorrow and I'll probably be stuck with domestic duties such as staining the deck.

On Sunday I'm doing the women's sport climbing clinic. I know that at least a few of the people showing up are really excited about it, just hope the other ones are fairly motivated too.

Also, my elbow hurts. Not sure if I have tennis elbow or if my ulnar nerve is getting irritated. The pain showed up over night and is pretty sharp so I'm leaning towards the nerve issue, but I really don't know.

From personal experience, and large-sample observation, the proven Climber treatment strategy:

complain.

ice (maybe).

wait (just a little bit) and see (not much change)

test it by climbing. Continue testing, even though it still hurts



Repeat the above cycle for a while. If there is not much improvement, maybe consider going to the doctor. Or increase the intensity of complaining...


caughtinside


Jun 6, 2014, 9:38 AM
Post #102587 of 103211 (1092 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Crept out into the local Choss and got an FA yesterday afternoon. Pretty quality too, but still dirty. Probably like 5.9 or so.


granite_grrl


Jun 6, 2014, 10:21 AM
Post #102588 of 103211 (1078 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
In other news, Nathan works tomorrow and I'll probably be stuck with domestic duties such as staining the deck.

On Sunday I'm doing the women's sport climbing clinic. I know that at least a few of the people showing up are really excited about it, just hope the other ones are fairly motivated too.

Also, my elbow hurts. Not sure if I have tennis elbow or if my ulnar nerve is getting irritated. The pain showed up over night and is pretty sharp so I'm leaning towards the nerve issue, but I really don't know.

From personal experience, and large-sample observation, the proven Climber treatment strategy:

complain.

ice (maybe).

wait (just a little bit) and see (not much change)

test it by climbing. Continue testing, even though it still hurts



Repeat the above cycle for a while. If there is not much improvement, maybe consider going to the doctor. Or increase the intensity of complaining...

Yeah, that was kinda the plan I had in mind. I was also going to reverse wrist curls at my desk using my Nalgene if I managed to think about it. I may even do some forearm stretches on my 3 hour drive down to St. Catharines this afternoon.

Talked with the Kineseologist here at work, and she's pretty sure it's tennis elbow...which is good?


lena_chita
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Jun 6, 2014, 11:27 AM
Post #102589 of 103211 (1067 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5653

Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
In other news, Nathan works tomorrow and I'll probably be stuck with domestic duties such as staining the deck.

On Sunday I'm doing the women's sport climbing clinic. I know that at least a few of the people showing up are really excited about it, just hope the other ones are fairly motivated too.

Also, my elbow hurts. Not sure if I have tennis elbow or if my ulnar nerve is getting irritated. The pain showed up over night and is pretty sharp so I'm leaning towards the nerve issue, but I really don't know.

From personal experience, and large-sample observation, the proven Climber treatment strategy:

complain.

ice (maybe).

wait (just a little bit) and see (not much change)

test it by climbing. Continue testing, even though it still hurts



Repeat the above cycle for a while. If there is not much improvement, maybe consider going to the doctor. Or increase the intensity of complaining...

Yeah, that was kinda the plan I had in mind. I was also going to reverse wrist curls at my desk using my Nalgene if I managed to think about it. I may even do some forearm stretches on my 3 hour drive down to St. Catharines this afternoon.

Talked with the Kineseologist here at work, and she's pretty sure it's tennis elbow...which is good?

That's a strange definition of good!

Hope it goes away soon.


granite_grrl


Jun 6, 2014, 12:34 PM
Post #102590 of 103211 (1055 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
In other news, Nathan works tomorrow and I'll probably be stuck with domestic duties such as staining the deck.

On Sunday I'm doing the women's sport climbing clinic. I know that at least a few of the people showing up are really excited about it, just hope the other ones are fairly motivated too.

Also, my elbow hurts. Not sure if I have tennis elbow or if my ulnar nerve is getting irritated. The pain showed up over night and is pretty sharp so I'm leaning towards the nerve issue, but I really don't know.

From personal experience, and large-sample observation, the proven Climber treatment strategy:

complain.

ice (maybe).

wait (just a little bit) and see (not much change)

test it by climbing. Continue testing, even though it still hurts



Repeat the above cycle for a while. If there is not much improvement, maybe consider going to the doctor. Or increase the intensity of complaining...

Yeah, that was kinda the plan I had in mind. I was also going to reverse wrist curls at my desk using my Nalgene if I managed to think about it. I may even do some forearm stretches on my 3 hour drive down to St. Catharines this afternoon.

Talked with the Kineseologist here at work, and she's pretty sure it's tennis elbow...which is good?

That's a strange definition of good!

Hope it goes away soon.

It's better than guessing what it is all by myself?


snoopy138


Jun 6, 2014, 1:06 PM
Post #102591 of 103211 (1050 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28764

Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
In other news, Nathan works tomorrow and I'll probably be stuck with domestic duties such as staining the deck.

On Sunday I'm doing the women's sport climbing clinic. I know that at least a few of the people showing up are really excited about it, just hope the other ones are fairly motivated too.

Also, my elbow hurts. Not sure if I have tennis elbow or if my ulnar nerve is getting irritated. The pain showed up over night and is pretty sharp so I'm leaning towards the nerve issue, but I really don't know.

based on recent MLB trends ... you probably need tommy john surgery.


snoopy138


Jun 6, 2014, 1:07 PM
Post #102592 of 103211 (1048 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
In other news, Nathan works tomorrow and I'll probably be stuck with domestic duties such as staining the deck.

On Sunday I'm doing the women's sport climbing clinic. I know that at least a few of the people showing up are really excited about it, just hope the other ones are fairly motivated too.

Also, my elbow hurts. Not sure if I have tennis elbow or if my ulnar nerve is getting irritated. The pain showed up over night and is pretty sharp so I'm leaning towards the nerve issue, but I really don't know.

From personal experience, and large-sample observation, the proven Climber treatment strategy:

complain.

ice (maybe).

wait (just a little bit) and see (not much change)

test it by climbing. Continue testing, even though it still hurts



Repeat the above cycle for a while. If there is not much improvement, maybe consider going to the doctor. Or increase the intensity of complaining...

Yeah, that was kinda the plan I had in mind. I was also going to reverse wrist curls at my desk using my Nalgene if I managed to think about it. I may even do some forearm stretches on my 3 hour drive down to St. Catharines this afternoon.

Talked with the Kineseologist here at work, and she's pretty sure it's tennis elbow...which is good?

oh, so perhaps you can scrap the UCL replacement.


snoopy138


Jun 6, 2014, 1:08 PM
Post #102593 of 103211 (1046 views)
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
Crept out into the local Choss and got an FA yesterday afternoon. Pretty quality too, but still dirty. Probably like 5.9 or so.

bolted, or some sort of chossy tard carck?


dr_feelgood


Jun 6, 2014, 7:07 PM
Post #102594 of 103211 (1028 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
In other news, Nathan works tomorrow and I'll probably be stuck with domestic duties such as staining the deck.

On Sunday I'm doing the women's sport climbing clinic. I know that at least a few of the people showing up are really excited about it, just hope the other ones are fairly motivated too.

Also, my elbow hurts. Not sure if I have tennis elbow or if my ulnar nerve is getting irritated. The pain showed up over night and is pretty sharp so I'm leaning towards the nerve issue, but I really don't know.

From personal experience, and large-sample observation, the proven Climber treatment strategy:

complain.

ice (maybe).

wait (just a little bit) and see (not much change)

test it by climbing. Continue testing, even though it still hurts



Repeat the above cycle for a while. If there is not much improvement, maybe consider going to the doctor. Or increase the intensity of complaining...

I think a high frequency of complaining is better than motrin.

Unless it is tight fingers....


caughtinside


Jun 6, 2014, 9:16 PM
Post #102595 of 103211 (1020 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Crept out into the local Choss and got an FA yesterday afternoon. Pretty quality too, but still dirty. Probably like 5.9 or so.

bolted, or some sort of chossy tard carck?

Need to go back to zip the bolts in. I tronsighted it.


granite_grrl


Jun 7, 2014, 7:20 AM
Post #102596 of 103211 (1008 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14765

Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Crept out into the local Choss and got an FA yesterday afternoon. Pretty quality too, but still dirty. Probably like 5.9 or so.

bolted, or some sort of chossy tard carck?

Need to go back to zip the bolts in. I tronsighted it.

About the word TRonsight.....anyone else notice how it's being used all over the internet now? We just had a conversation about it on Ontario Climbing that I had nothing to do with.


caughtinside


Jun 7, 2014, 11:22 AM
Post #102597 of 103211 (997 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Crept out into the local Choss and got an FA yesterday afternoon. Pretty quality too, but still dirty. Probably like 5.9 or so.

bolted, or some sort of chossy tard carck?

Need to go back to zip the bolts in. I tronsighted it.

About the word TRonsight.....anyone else notice how it's being used all over the internet now? We just had a conversation about it on Ontario Climbing that I had nothing to do with.

Tronsight and tredpoint are all over the internet now. I noticed it crop up a couple years ago. There was a thread on mp this week about tronsighting.

Is that a BET original? Maybe ABz work?


climbs4fun
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Jun 7, 2014, 11:31 AM
Post #102598 of 103211 (993 views)
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 9606

Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Crept out into the local Choss and got an FA yesterday afternoon. Pretty quality too, but still dirty. Probably like 5.9 or so.

bolted, or some sort of chossy tard carck?

Need to go back to zip the bolts in. I tronsighted it.

About the word TRonsight.....anyone else notice how it's being used all over the internet now? We just had a conversation about it on Ontario Climbing that I had nothing to do with.

Tronsight and tredpoint are all over the internet now. I noticed it crop up a couple years ago. There was a thread on mp this week about tronsighting.

Is that a BET original? Maybe ABz work?

You forgot to pour out BLL


caughtinside


Jun 7, 2014, 1:30 PM
Post #102599 of 103211 (985 views)
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Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Crept out into the local Choss and got an FA yesterday afternoon. Pretty quality too, but still dirty. Probably like 5.9 or so.

bolted, or some sort of chossy tard carck?

Need to go back to zip the bolts in. I tronsighted it.

About the word TRonsight.....anyone else notice how it's being used all over the internet now? We just had a conversation about it on Ontario Climbing that I had nothing to do with.

Tronsight and tredpoint are all over the internet now. I noticed it crop up a couple years ago. There was a thread on mp this week about tronsighting.

Is that a BET original? Maybe ABz work?

You forgot to pour out BLL

It's all maseltov now for AB. Now that he is teh pater familis, I shake those BLLz and spray them like shampain.


granite_grrl


Jun 7, 2014, 6:25 PM
Post #102600 of 103211 (978 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14765

Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Crept out into the local Choss and got an FA yesterday afternoon. Pretty quality too, but still dirty. Probably like 5.9 or so.

bolted, or some sort of chossy tard carck?

Need to go back to zip the bolts in. I tronsighted it.

About the word TRonsight.....anyone else notice how it's being used all over the internet now? We just had a conversation about it on Ontario Climbing that I had nothing to do with.

Tronsight and tredpoint are all over the internet now. I noticed it crop up a couple years ago. There was a thread on mp this week about tronsighting.

Is that a BET original? Maybe ABz work?

teh BET are industry leaders.

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