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kennoyce
Jun 24, 2014, 3:10 PM
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buckets wrote: 5 tips on how to improve your rock climbing! 1-Stay focused on upward momentum. Meaning do not hang out on holds for minutes getting pumped, instead have a quick shake out, a good breath and continue upwards. 2-Do not over grip the rock. Meaning relax your fingers and forearms. Beware if you are getting über pumped low down on a route this may have occurred because if over gripping. 3-Use shoulder lock off power. Meaning pull down with your shoulder until you hand is at shoulder height. 4-Keep your core tight. Meaning maintain a connection between your upper body and lower body, you should be able to feel a tightness in your abs. 5-Make use of drop knees to gain extra height to reach higher holds. |
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rocknice2
Jun 24, 2014, 4:55 PM
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Good tips
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funk
Jun 24, 2014, 10:16 PM
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lose weight.
(This post was edited by funk on Jun 24, 2014, 10:17 PM)
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sungam
Jun 25, 2014, 7:58 AM
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I've been trying number 5, but in order to actually "drop" my knee, I have to move my body down rather then up which is causing some difficulty in reaching the ghigher holds.
Please hepl.
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granite_grrl
Jun 25, 2014, 11:53 AM
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sungam wrote: I've been trying number 5, but in order to actually "drop" my knee, I have to move my body down rather then up which is causing some difficulty in reaching the ghigher holds. Please hepl.
Full on drop knees seem to be most useful on overhanging terrain. They help get your body into the wall, which helps with reaching holds.
While I do backstep and use slight drop knees all the time (hard to say when a backstep turns into a drop knee), I think most people should avoid the full expression of a drop knee. It's very hard on the joint and it's possible to do damage.
ie - there's a big difference between this:
And this:
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dagibbs
Jun 25, 2014, 3:01 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: sungam wrote: I've been trying number 5, but in order to actually "drop" my knee, I have to move my body down rather then up which is causing some difficulty in reaching the ghigher holds. Please hepl. Full on drop knees seem to be most useful on overhanging terrain. They help get your body into the wall, which helps with reaching holds.
My experience with drop-knees has been that they provide a more stable/solid base to move from -- as you say, they get your body more in to the wall -- but I find the advantage from that is not extra reach, per se, but that I can make that reach using less strength from the hands/arms to stay on the wall, so in more control and with less pump.
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rocknice2
Jun 25, 2014, 3:05 PM
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In order to drop the knee you must rotate the torso. That's what gives you the extra reach, by getting the shoulder closer to the rock. It doesn't get your body higher per say. Well it does considering your center mass is better balanced and your pulling arm is straightened more, so therefore you can crank that much more efficiently.
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lena_chita
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Jun 25, 2014, 6:04 PM
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rocknice2 wrote: Good tips
Are they really? To me this seems more like a list of 5 random things. Let's see:
buckets wrote: 1-Stay focused on upward momentum. Meaning do not hang out on holds for minutes getting pumped, instead have a quick shake out, a good breath and continue upwards.
Not really. I would say, more generally, learn how to identify the proper pace. Know when to speed up and move through a sequence quickly, and when to hang out and rest for a long time.
But is this really the NUMBER 1 tip someone needs to improve their climbing? The most important thing? Presumably this is advice geared towards beginners... So the first thing you tell your friend who is just started climbing is this, really?
Most beginners that I have seen are not climbing too slowly. They actually do the opposite, they try to climb too fast and look really sloppy as a result, instead of placing hands and feet deliberately.
buckets wrote: 2-Do not over grip the rock. Meaning relax your fingers and forearms. Beware if you are getting über pumped low down on a route this may have occurred because if over gripping.
True. A good advice for beginners.
buckets wrote: 3-Use shoulder lock off power. Meaning pull down with your shoulder until you hand is at shoulder height.
Not quite sure what this even means. But again, this is ONE thing you tell someone? use shoulder lock-off power? How about use your legs? And what about moves when your hand has to go past your shoulder? or never gets to your shoulder? It seems like this is taking one specific type of move out of a large arsenal of moves, and IMO the straight down pulling is the type of move beginners need the LEAST help with, most everyone knows how to pull straight down.
buckets wrote: 4-Keep your core tight. Meaning maintain a connection between your upper body and lower body, you should be able to feel a tightness in your abs.
Yeah, o.k.
buckets wrote: 5-Make use of drop knees to gain extra height to reach higher holds.
Drop-knees? They are an important skill, sure, but why chose drop-knees for your 5 tips? Why not flag? or reverse-flag? or backstep? or mantle? or something equally random, pulled out of the arsenal of moves?
If this is advice geared towards beginners, which it seems to be, then learning how to flag and backstep are much more basic skills that come into play much more often than a full-on drop-knee. And as others have said, the drop-knee doesn't so much extend your reach as it keeps you into the wall and makes the reach physically easier. But if you have a choice of footholds and really do need to make a full extension move, then you will reach farther with a hip rotation and flag than you would with a drop-knee. And anyway, most beginners are not climbing severely overhanging terrain.
To me, this seems like a list of 5 things that were maybe beneficial for a particular person, but not exactly generalizable.
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sungam
Jun 26, 2014, 11:17 AM
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I know, I was just teasing about how badly the point was written. I wouldn't call that a drop knee, though. I'd call it pivoting or twisting or backfooting and have heard the strong position of elbow to your side with you twisted inside it with a back foot called a twist lock, which is a dumb name though quite explanatory.
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granite_grrl
Jun 26, 2014, 11:56 AM
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sungam wrote: I know, I was just teasing about how badly the point was written. I wouldn't call that a drop knee, though. I'd call it pivoting or twisting or backfooting and have heard the strong position of elbow to your side with you twisted inside it with a back foot called a twist lock, which is a dumb name though quite explanatory.
yes, the second photo is what I think of when I hear "drop knee", and my point still stands that that shit puts a lot of strain on the knee joint and should be used sparingly.
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sungam
Jun 26, 2014, 4:08 PM
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I guess it's because I had just woken up but I completely misread your earlier post 
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buckets
Feb 1, 2015, 10:09 AM
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Ah ha.
The title should be:
5 things I wish I had learned in my first year of climbing
since it took me longer to clue into these things but once I did. WOW! I could climb 5.12.
http://moredaysoff
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jacques
Feb 2, 2015, 4:14 PM
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lena_chita wrote: rocknice2 wrote: Good tips Are they really? To me this seems more like a list of 5 random things. Let's see: buckets wrote: 1-Stay focused on upward momentum. Meaning do not hang out on holds for minutes getting pumped, instead have a quick shake out, a good breath and continue upwards. Not really. I would say, more generally, learn how to identify the proper pace. Know when to speed up and move through a sequence quickly, and when to hang out and rest for a long time. .
I think that it is an important difference between sport and trad. When there is bolt, you can continue upwards without worry about the pro. If you do the route number of time before sending it, you can have an impression of safety and there was two death/injury in the fall like that.
If you climb trad, and particularly if you on sight a move, I like the idea to slow down where you can rest to decide what you are going to do in the next sequences and where to place the pro. You can speed up safely the sequence after. More than a repetition of a move to send it, leading is, in trad, an anticipation of the best way to do a sequences. It can be hard in a tricky 5.7 and easy in an obvious 5.10 who just need strength.
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cracklover
Feb 3, 2015, 2:00 PM
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buckets wrote: Ah ha. The title should be: 5 things I wish I had learned in my first year of climbing since it took me longer to clue into these things but once I did. WOW! I could climb 5.12. http://moredaysoff
INCT.
GO
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