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Beginner here... shoe advice.
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boulderbrad


Aug 11, 2014, 8:24 AM
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Beginner here... shoe advice.
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Hi,

I recently signed up at a new local boulder gym and have quickly fallen in love with the sport. I've been using their rental shoes but figure it's time to get my own pair of shoes.

I've done a lot of research on shoes and I've read that I shouldn't get an aggressive shoe if I'm a beginner... However I tried on many different shoes and and read many, many reviews and I really like the Evolv Shamans.. Is this a bad idea since I'm a so new at the sport? If so, do you have any other suggestions? The guy at my local MEC shop wasn't very helpful. I don't want to cheap out and I don't care about price much... I just want a good quality shoe that will allow me to get better.


(This post was edited by boulderbrad on Aug 11, 2014, 8:24 AM)


brinosaur


Aug 11, 2014, 9:23 AM
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Re: [boulderbrad] Beginner here... shoe advice. [In reply to]
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If price is no issue, go with the shoe that fits best. There is no way to determine which model or size is right until you try them out on an actual climb/problem. Things to check for:
-Pain (less = better)
-Heel cup fit (heel stays on, no large air pockets)
-Edging (material around the inner edge of the big toe/outer edge of pinky toe does not have excessive flex,roll, or air pockets).

Does your gym have a proshop? If so, you can try on a wide range of different makes, models, and downturns to see what fits and works best for you.

If the gym does not have a good selection of shoes, buy a pair or two (or three!) from a shop with a good return policy. Let the salesperson know what you intend to do beforehand, and try them out (gently!!!) at your gym. Make your returns the shop accordingly and ASAP, taking home additional pairs to try before making your final decision. Keep in mind that some retailers (REI) will be fairly lax with this approach, while others may not be so tolerant.


boulderbrad


Aug 11, 2014, 12:38 PM
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Re: [brinosaur] Beginner here... shoe advice. [In reply to]
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Thanks for the advice brinosaur.

After going back and trying even more shoes... about a dozen pairs and various sizes (with blisters on my feet from trying so many on) I bought the Scarpa Instinct S which seemed to fit the best. Going to try them out at my gym tonight to see how they feel. They have a great return policy.


(This post was edited by boulderbrad on Aug 11, 2014, 12:47 PM)


granite_grrl


Aug 11, 2014, 12:44 PM
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Re: [boulderbrad] Beginner here... shoe advice. [In reply to]
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If you're not worried about price then go ahead for the Shamans. You will likely destroy them quicker than you would another pair of shoes though. They will also probably be harder to resole and retain the same feel than if you resole a lower end shoe.


lena_chita
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Aug 12, 2014, 4:57 AM
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Re: [boulderbrad] Beginner here... shoe advice. [In reply to]
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The way I think about it, you should try a bunch of shoes, and pick the cheapest one that fits well.

If Shamans fit, you really like them, and cost is not an issue, you found yourself your first pair of shoes. Enjoy! Maybe they will be your 2nd, 3rd, and even 10th pair of shoes, too.


jt512


Aug 12, 2014, 6:30 AM
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Re: [boulderbrad] Beginner here... shoe advice. [In reply to]
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Shoe thread! Who says rc.com isn't making a comeback!


JimTitt


Aug 12, 2014, 1:40 PM
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Re: [jt512] Beginner here... shoe advice. [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
Shoe thread! Who says rc.com isn't making a comeback!

Regrettably one I canīt make a helpful post on, I still wear beginners shoes after 45 years and donīt boulder either.


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