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Chris_k
Sep 22, 2014, 5:52 PM
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I am looking for ideas to get over the lip of an overhang. I am able to get to the lip, heel hook but this one location has very little in the way of grips within 26 inches of the lip. I can hang for a while but cant seem to find any leverage to get above that point.
I've tried hanging and just powering over but that requires a few leaps of faith and so far the grips are just too small to catch on a leap. One arm pull ups allow me to get to a finger lock on the next grip but I cant sustain my entire weight to bring up my right hand while hanging.
Is there a way to rotate when your hand and heel are in line on the lip with the rest of your body below (from heel hook) without a strong grip above?
I really want to get this section. :)
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lena_chita
Moderator
Sep 22, 2014, 6:23 PM
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The move you are looking for is called the mantle.
You have to palm/press your hand down and use that heel to slowly pull yourself over and rotate over the lip, beach-whale style. Or press up on both hands. Google "climbing mantle" and look at images.
There is no way to explain it better on the internet, there are many many variations that are specific to your problem. Watch what other people do on it. Try to do the same. Keep working, and you'll get it.
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Chris_k
Sep 22, 2014, 6:32 PM
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Thanks for the reply.
In this case it's an overhang that has a slab above it, no mantle. :(
There is a good hand hold / heel jam on the right of the line approx 3 inches above the lip and a crack on the left side that I can finger jam but its a very flat area above the lip. There is also a small shelf 5 inches directly above that you can hook 2 fingers on. I tried toe hooking on that too but the foot just slides off. :)
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lena_chita
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Sep 22, 2014, 6:59 PM
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Chris_k wrote: Thanks for the reply. In this case it's an overhang that has a slab above it, no mantle. :( There is a good hand hold / heel jam on the right of the line approx 3 inches above the lip and a crack on the left side that I can finger jam but its a very flat area above the lip. There is also a small shelf 5 inches directly above that you can hook 2 fingers on. I tried toe hooking on that too but the foot just slides off. :)
Overhang to slab transition makes for a great mantle.  (Images found by google search)
Regardless, I think you need help from people who have climbed the problem/route in question, and can show you what to do, or talk you through specific details. I cannot tell you what to do exactly ,based on your description. Other than keep trying.
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skelldify
Sep 22, 2014, 7:34 PM
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Ask someone for the specific beta for the route you're talking about.
We have no clue how to do it without at least seeing it.
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Chris_k
Sep 23, 2014, 6:23 PM
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No one around seems to have done it :)
The picture is a side view. After the overhang is goes into a lesser overhang. I know its hard to figure out without seeing it in person. Just looking for further idea on techniques to try as no one here had a solution. :)
If not.... well, I'll keep falling till I get it!
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marc801
Sep 24, 2014, 8:47 PM
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Chris_k wrote: No one around seems to have done it :) The picture is a side view. After the overhang is goes into a lesser overhang. I know its hard to figure out without seeing it in person. Just looking for further idea on techniques to try as no one here had a solution. :) If not.... well, I'll keep falling till I get it!
What picture?
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