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FFSchooley
Feb 6, 2013, 3:25 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2012
Posts: 17
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Have you seen the http://www.blankslateclimbing.com/shop/item/blank-slate/ doorway mount for your hangboard? 
Have you seen the price! I figured out a DIY way to make it for $40 instead of the $130 it costs to buy it. Here ya go;
Parts list
Doorway pull-up bar from local big box store $29.95
(2) 1/2" x 4" galvanized nipples
(2) 1/2" galvanized floor flanges
(2) 1/4" x 3/4" bolt with nut? (not sure exactly what size, just grabbed bolts off my workbench that fit.)
3/4" plywood (I cut mine 30" x 18")
3/4" wood screws
Be sure to take the pull-up bar you get to the store with you to make sure the 1/2" nipples fit. You will see where below...
1. Assemble the pull up bar and screw the nipples into the flanges to make what I will call the nipple mounting bracket :) . Pop the end caps off the pull up bar tubes where the handgrips are(see photo below)
2. Insert nipple mounting brackets into tubes and drill a hole through the pull up bar and nipple mounting bracket to allow you to put a bolt through both to secure the nipple mounting bracket. Insert bolts loosely to assemble.
3. Place pull up bar system on plywood and mark where you want the plywood to mount. I placed mine 6" from the bottom of the board. Seems to work well (see final photo).
4. Screw nipple mounting brackets to plywood. (Note, you might have to remove them from the pull up bar to give room from to access screws.
5. Assemble pull up bar if removed and tighten all bolts/screws. Hang in doorway to test and add hang board and holds. Enjoy!
(This post was edited by FFSchooley on Feb 6, 2013, 3:30 PM)
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niknarly
Feb 12, 2013, 4:55 PM
Post #2 of 9
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Registered: Feb 12, 2013
Posts: 1
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Hey thanks for posting this,
help my friend out a lot.
He used bolts and washers instead of plywood screws, just to make sure its more rigid. Because if you put holds near the top of the board, could be a lot of torque on just screws... but i'm no engineer.
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seancharles
Jun 24, 2013, 5:18 AM
Post #3 of 9
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Registered: Jun 24, 2013
Posts: 2
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do you know where i can get the nipple mounts I cant find them anywhere
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adeffis
Oct 10, 2014, 2:33 PM
Post #4 of 9
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Registered: Apr 2, 2011
Posts: 3
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This is excellent, really appreciate that you shared it.
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naitch
Oct 11, 2014, 4:30 PM
Post #5 of 9
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
Posts: 539
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I have come up with something similar (see link below) that I believe is a bit stronger. The Blank Slate is engineered for the leverage and stresses that it will incur by having a board and holds mounted to it. Your average pull-up bar is only engineered to have the weight applied between the ends of the pull-up handles and the horizontal bar. The square steel stock of the Blank Slate is larger and able to handle more leverage and downward stress. The most stress occurs where the bolts go through the cross-bar to hold it to the two uprights. By adding the board on the end of the horizontal pull-up handles and then having holds/hangboard on the outside surface of that, you are moving the weight even further out which increases the leverage and stress on the bolt holes which are the weak link. Use at your own risk!
There are some ways to mitigate this however. One way, is to cut the pull-handles slightly shorter (~ 2 inches). This moves the board closer to the horizontal bar and reduces the leverage and thus the stress.
Further stress can be taken off the pull-bar bolt holes by adding a 2 x 2 cross piece at the bottom of the board that spans the width of the doorway and rests against the doorway just like the pull-up cross-bar. This helps distribute some of the weight to the facing of the doorway casing/trim.
Finally, having a 3/4" piece of plywood with no reinforcing allows the board to flex some (depending upon the user's weight and where the holds/hangboard are mounted on the board). I don't know the thickness of the Blank Slate board, but it might even be 1" thick. One way to make the board stiffer is to use a couple vertical stringers on the back side of the board (2 x 2s or 2 x 4s).
For illustrations of these points and an alternative to using the pipe flanges (though that seems like a cool idea too), see http://sicgrips.blogspot.com/...tring-backboard.html
For those who don't mind putting in a bit more work, here is folding unit you could make from scratch with plywood, 2 x 2s, a couple turnbuckles, and a bit of strap steel from the hardware store. This would save you the price of the pull-up bar if you don't already have one. We designed it originally to hang Gstrings but it could easily be sheathed with 3/4" hardwood ply with t-nuts or a hang board: http://sicgrips.com/gstring_gallows.html
(This post was edited by naitch on Oct 12, 2014, 12:27 PM)
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adeffis
Oct 11, 2014, 4:49 PM
Post #6 of 9
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Registered: Apr 2, 2011
Posts: 3
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Thanks a lot ... it looks like it'll take a little bit more of work to do, but more stable and sturdy indeed.
I actually do have the G strings that I bought from you guys not so long ago, so I'm going to get the materials and get to work.
Thanks once again.
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marc801
Oct 13, 2014, 5:44 PM
Post #7 of 9
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
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How do any of these devices manage to not crush and mar the doorway trim or the wall above the door?
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naitch
Oct 13, 2014, 7:22 PM
Post #8 of 9
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
Posts: 539
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The top of the doorway is not a problem with either the pull-up bar or the ones I've made from scratch. The medium-hard plastic or the wood hasn't marred the wall or trim on top of the doorway in my experience - YMMV.
The commercial pull-up bar I use does have a very thin piece of closed cell foam on it (~1/16") and the ones I've made from scratch, I originally put a piece of yoga mat that was glued to the wooden bar at the top (second link in my post above.) However since then, I've eliminated that because it didn't seem to be an issue in my situation and because it pushes the bar out away from the wall slightly. On one version I used thin felt which was OK.
Re the trim on the sides of the doorway, the commercial pull-up units have foam padding that helps distribute the weight. With the board I made (first link in my previous post above) I added foam padding on the auxiliary wood crossbar that presses against the trim. Never had any problems, though it might depend upon how much the user weighs and how sculpted the doorway trim is. Ours isn't flat but not as sculpted as some that I've seen.
Also, with the added cross-bar, it helps distribute the weight over a larger surface area of the doorway trim than just the pull-up bar by itself.
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