samroberts
Sep 24, 2008, 4:18 AM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 23
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The guide books are pretty weak on recommendations for routes, here are the routes you should do, IMHO, when you go.
3-star routes are ones I'd make sure I do again if I had the chance, 2-star are ones I'm really happy I did, 1-star and 0-star aren't in this list.
For the record, I like long continuous routes with interesting features and fun moves, but some routes make the list because of positioning (right off the beach, for example).
- Banana Hammock, 6a+, The Nest **
- Dozer Days, 6c, The Nest ***: good roof, hard face moves, cool stemming to stalactites
- Groove Tuby, 6a, Fire Wall **: easy climb up a chimney, but great positioning
- Missing Snow, 6b+, Tyrolean **: neat melting wax rock
- Smoking Room, 6c, Melting Wall ***: roof, stalactites, stemming, powerful at times, overhanging, its got it all
- Cross-Eyed, 7b, Melting Wall ***: crazy huecos, big dynos, powerful slightly overhanging face, and fine positioning
- I no speak England, 6b+, Tonsai **
- Land of smiles, 7a/7b, Happy Island ***: crazy complex crux over this weird blob on an otherwise blank wall, and continuous hard and delicate climbing above
- Don't worry, be happy, 6a+, Happy Island ***: Julie really liked this, I didn't do it. Get a boost to the first bolt!
- King Cat, 6c, Cat Wall ***: so overhanging, its hard to believe its climbable, but it is!
- the 6a's on Cobra Wall **
- Circus Oz, 6a+, Thaiwand ***: long and fun
- The King and I, 7a, Thaiwand: long, fun, intimidating, lots of endurance and then powerful
- Fit to be Thaid, 6a+, Thaiwand ***
- Beauty and the Beast, 6a+, Tonsai **: deep breath, and let yourself fall out to the stalactite, fun!
- Heart of Darkness, 6c+/7a, Cat Wall ***: 5 pitches of fun climbing, continuous at the grade, and a beautiful mid-height belay ledge to look out over the bay from, and goes right to the top of the wall (unlike most multipitch down there)
- Humanlity, 6b+, Tonsai **: overrated, its got a nasty start, some boring pitches, and a stellar move at midheight, despite this its right over the beach so wins based on positioning
- Love for Travelling, 7a+/6c, Tonsai ***: funky moves, deep pockets, stemming, chimneying, roofs and cracks, great!
- Monkey Love, 6b, Thaiwand **
- Mala Mujer, 6b, Thaiwand ***: long and fun
- Fire Starter, 6c+, Fire Wall **
- Burnt Offerings, 7a+, Fire Wall ***: great photos, good moves over an improbable cave mouth
- Beauty and the Beast, 6b, Monkey World ***: first pitches are ok, but the last is a full 30 metres of continuously fun and interesting stemming, chimneying, face, tufas, etc., great Thai limestone!
- Lion King, 6c+, Dum's Kitchen ***: too hard for the grade, but fun, and gets an extra star for coming straight off the beach
- Caroline's Last Day, 6a, The Nest **: fun chimney, and Wee's guidebook is wrong, it's been rebolted with titanium glue-ins
- Big Wave, 6b, Monkey Wall ***: first pitch is ok, but next 3 pitches are uniformly fabulous, differ from each in character, and it goes to just 10 feet short of the top! Great route, great view.
That's it.
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