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ballpointpenner
Jan 1, 2016, 6:32 AM
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Hi guys, so I recently picked up Horst's "how to climb 5.12" book and am inclined to put the ideas described there-in into practice - specifically, I want to try his 4-3-2-1 training schedule where you do 4 weeks of endurance, followed by 3 weeks of strength, followed by 2 weeks of power-endurance and finishing with a one week rest.
For the last few years, I've been doing a lot of toprope with the occasional lead-day with bouldering taking the spotlight for days or periods when I couldn't get a partner. This last month has been one of my bouldering periods. I'd work on routes that I couldn't crack on days when I felt strong and would simply redo all the attainable routes on days when I felt weaker. This approach has been fun and has allowed me to get back into what I consider to be acceptable bouldering shape - but I'm afraid that I'm going to have to take a wholly different approach if I want to use the strategy Horst recommends.
The reason for the post is that I want to find a way of working endurance without it becoming boring - after all, Horst's schedule suggests that I need to start with a full month of doing nothing but endurance climbing. In the past, I've put time into endurance where I was doing three twenty minute sets of going up and down the wall in a cave one third of which is slightly overhanging. I found myself cranking the difficultly (choosing harder-holds and staying on the overhang longer) to keep things interesting. However, looking back, I have to ask myself if I was really working endurance if I was getting to a pump every time. If I wasn't, then how do I make endurance climbing days interesting?
I can't really use the normal boulder-area for it - my gym is too crowded and there aren't enough easy boulder problems to keep me going for twenty minutes non-stop. If I want to top-rope, it means that I need a partner willing to belay me for like 7 consecutive climbs in a row, three times per session with only ten minute periods of me belaying them - I don't have a crazy partner like that. My gym doesn't have an autobelay system but another, more expensive gym around here does - could that be the way to go?
Also, am I not allowed to try the cool, hard boulder problems during my month of endurnace-training? To me, that sounds like no fun but I'll do it if that's what it takes to get better. Just wondering if there's a way to have my cake and also eat it.
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sungam
Jan 1, 2016, 7:05 PM
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The best and easiest way to make any training more fun for me is to find a similarly motivated partner to train with, and probably to get an mp3 player. At my gym we spoke to the manager and got persmission to climb routes on either side of our toprope line so we could climb a lot of different routes for our ARC sessions and we made up fun and goofy (but still easy) routes for each other to keep it a bit more fun. Also an mp3 player helps a lot.
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ballpointpenner
Jan 1, 2016, 9:13 PM
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Hey, thanks for your suggestions - especially the one about climbing the neighbouring routes. So you used topropes to do ARC. How did you organize it? Did you just follow a watch or do routes a certain number of times? Did you use downclimbing as well? Did you take 20-30 (20 or 30?) minute turns climbing / belaying?
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sungam
Jan 2, 2016, 2:00 AM
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depending on how much time we had usually 30 minutes each, climbing up and down, making up routes that were fun moves with a good mix of big wide moves, long moves, more awkward moves, etc.
Usually we'd start talking and stuff catching up with each other (ARC should be within conversational breathing) until that kinda burns out then listen to some music. You could also try talking to the management about doing music requests.
It's kinda like anything where it takes a bit to get used to it and it stops being boring, then it kinda gets boring and repetitive again, luckily 4 weeks isn't too long. Just do whatever you can to make it more interesting.
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ironmike
Jan 2, 2016, 11:55 PM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2005
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Is that before or after you guzzle all that cum?
Happy New Year! Maggot.
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sungam
Jan 3, 2016, 1:01 AM
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ironmike wrote: Is that before or after you guzzle all that cum? Happy New Year! Maggot.
Edit to add: happy new year to you, too ))) 
(This post was edited by sungam on Jan 3, 2016, 5:01 PM)
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sungam
Jan 3, 2016, 1:05 AM
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But, to answer your question, I usually work out before I have sex, because otherwise I lose the psyche a bit and can't motivate myself to train as hard. Also after a good training session even if I'm exhausted physically I'm also feeling all testosteroned and shit so I am totes keen on some fuk.
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