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onbelay_osu


Jan 16, 2003, 7:58 PM
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i was wondering what the average mm of rope used n trad is...as a person who learned from the Boy Scouts ( ) i am used to 11mm rope is that too much...thanxs
G


sparky


Jan 16, 2003, 8:28 PM
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i use a 9mil or something in that area but it all depends on what you're doing with it, generally the smaller the rope the easier the handling, i personally think 11mm is to fat unless you need it for a specific reason


climblouisiana


Jan 16, 2003, 8:34 PM
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11 mm is fine especially if your rope is going to get a lot of abuse such as rapping, falling, or hanging. Unless you're going for a redpoint at your limit, it is fine to use a 10.5 or 11 especially when doing gear routes or routes in more remote areas. Lately I've been using 10.5 mm ropes as my "all around" rope for use in bolted routes, gear routes, sketchy routes and long routes. good luck!



jt512


Jan 16, 2003, 9:37 PM
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Quote:
i was wondering what the average mm of rope used n trad is.


10.3349

-Jay


stevematthys


Jan 16, 2003, 9:39 PM
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i use a 10.5


redpoint73


Jan 16, 2003, 10:20 PM
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10-10.5 is good for general use, trasd climbs, working sport routes, etc. Smaller ropes are really for redpoint attempts where rope drag and weight want to be kept to a minimum, and you are not expecting to fall a lot. You really only need 11 mm if durability is an issue (big wall climbing), but some people like them for top roping. its largely subjective. Some people like 11 mm for all around use.


cass


Jan 16, 2003, 11:24 PM
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10.5


kman


Jan 17, 2003, 12:29 AM
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I use a 10.5.


Partner drector


Jan 17, 2003, 12:50 AM
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10.5

I find a 10.2 a bit too small for catching hard falls. Maybe it's my hands.

Practice with an 11 then when you use a smaller rope on a harder climb, it feels light.

Dave


grundleson


Jan 17, 2003, 1:06 AM
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10.5 is my favorite


onbelay_osu


Jan 17, 2003, 3:20 AM
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Thanks to all who responded...that is what i thought but since i am soo new to trad climbing i just wanted to get beta from people who know what they are doing!
G


epic_ed


Jan 17, 2003, 3:27 AM
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A 10.2 is a good compromise between rope weight and durability. The Mammut 10.2 SuperSafe, in particular, is an incredible rope.

Ed


gawd


Jan 19, 2003, 10:23 PM
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i climb on several different types of ropes depending on my intended route.

2 edweiss sttatos 9mm.
1 mammut super safe 10.2mm
edweiss stratos 9.7mm

i climb in the mid .11's and weigh 190lbs and fall routinly and i fall on these ropes with confidence.

i buy new ropes near every six months,



codyk


Jan 19, 2003, 10:30 PM
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twine usally works well


repete


Jan 22, 2003, 11:07 PM
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I use a sterling 10.2mm formost sport and trad unless i know it is going to get a lot of abuse ie. running over edges. In this case and when TR'ing i use my not so new 11mm.


climbjs


Jan 22, 2003, 11:12 PM
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9.6.... Light!


fitz


Jan 23, 2003, 12:41 AM
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When it comes to trad for mortals, I lump thin lines in with tight shoes. Just like the aching feet on the 3rd pitch more than counteract any gains from the shoes, having the thin stuff curl up like dental floss when you are trying to do a one rope bail in the freezing rain more than makes up for any performance gains I might have had.

Maybe the thin lines have gotten better, but, after one try, I've just stuck with 10.5. Personally, I've always found drag to be a bigger issue than the weight of the rope. As in, an 11mm with frequent use of long runners feels a lot less like a fire hose than a thinner line clipped directly to every piece.

-jjf


vegastradguy


Jan 23, 2003, 1:40 AM
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10.2mm is what I use. I'd say 10.2-10.5 is fine for the average trad climber.

My partner is getting a 9.7mm next. Woo!


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