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thoughtprocess
Jan 20, 2003, 3:23 AM
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I feel like such an idiot...I have the biggest trouble on high reaches on overhanging routes. The degree of overhang is probably only 20 degrees but its SO frustrating for me. First and foremost, all of the footholds are far apart...ex: say I'm standing on a foothold with my right foot, the one for my left foot is level with my waist and the next right foot hold is even higher above that left one.[i dunno if that makes any sense whatsoever but on i go...] On top of that, the hand holds are incredibly high. This route is only a 5.8 and I feel sooo stupid b/c I'm struggling with it! If you understand this [even a little bit] please HELPP!
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rprp
Jan 20, 2003, 3:28 AM
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Registered: Dec 27, 2002
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Sounds like it is set up as a dyno move? Are you going from a good jug to a good jug even if it is reachy?
Or can you match hands and, while hanging straight arm, walk your feet up to that high foot hold?
Or tell us more.
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crux_clipper
Jan 20, 2003, 3:32 AM
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If it's overhanging, have u tried a drop knee, which will suck ur hips into the wall, making it easier to reach higher.
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clymber
Jan 20, 2003, 3:38 AM
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you can try a drop knee with the foot hold thats waist hight and then move
or depending on how far out the waist high foot hold is might want to try and do a heel hook
sort of hard to give advice if we cant see the route
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thoughtprocess
Jan 20, 2003, 3:39 AM
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Yea...all of the holds are jugs/large holds but everyone else that I see climbing the route doesn't dyno[they are all, ofcourse, taller than I am].
I was reading something about figure of fours...do you think that could work? How does that work?
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clymber
Jan 20, 2003, 3:42 AM
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depends if its a roof or a overhang
never saw a figure four done on a overhang only getting over a roof or in ice
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xanx
Jan 20, 2003, 4:13 AM
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hmm... my initial BOULDERING instincts force me to scream at you "GET STRONGER THEN TRY IT AGAIN!!!"
but as a compassionate, considerate, helpful, friendly person ( ) i have to offer some more constructive advice. heel hooking is probably going to be very difficult if it is only a foot chip and/or if it is close to your body. i find i almost never use drop knees b/c i am too afraid of my foot blowing on tiny chips. besides hanging staight arm, hiking that left (or whatever the hight foot chip is) up and then dynoing up, i would suggest trying to hang straight arm, put your RIGHT foot on the high LEFT foot chip, flag out with your left foot, layback into the jug, stand up with your foot as you pull in closer, and just reach up. again, this all depends on where the feet are and how good they are ect... so it is hard to say.
good luck sticking it!
mike
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misha
Jan 20, 2003, 5:00 AM
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i would consider trying harder, when i have trouble with a problem i dont find it helpfull to ask people on the internet. I like to figure out the easiest way for me and then work it until i suceed. Unless people have seen the route you are talking about, there is no way taht they will be able to give helpfull information. Try asking someone in the gym or just TRY VERY HARD.
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ecocliffchick
Jan 20, 2003, 3:28 PM
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If you are trying to make the reach with both your feet on the wall, and find you are just too short, it might help to push off that lower foot and just flag it while standing on the higher foot. You may be forced to climb the entire route with just one foot on the wall at a time, but if you get a good dynamic flow going, it will make it much easier.
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shortfatoldguy
Jan 20, 2003, 3:35 PM
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I suck at overhangs.
See esp. the posts by boardcrazzy and ecocliffchick.
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wandt
Jan 21, 2003, 11:17 PM
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Get your hips and shoulders as close to the wall as possible. Depending on the feet, this could mean deadpointing, drop-kneeing, or just a regular backstep. If your arms and core are not very strong, try the deadpoint. If you do have good core tension, on the other hand, I suggest back-stepping and making the move static. Forget the figure-four at this point.
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