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stormannorman
Jan 21, 2003, 4:57 AM
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Curious if any one has ever worn a back pack with weight in it to make things harder? Is this a bad idea? Just want to make the burn longer and harder.
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xanx
Jan 21, 2003, 5:09 AM
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i would say climb harder. climbing with weights sounds like you are just asking for an injury...
training lightly with some weights occassionaly shouldn't be as dangerous (like doing pullups with a small amount of weights) but i wouldn't climb (especially on bad holds) with extra weight - shallow 2 finger pockets, small edges, and monos are already dangerous enough.
btw today i thought i would be cool and open hand that crimp the entire time i held onto it - and ended up hurting/pulling a tendon i thought open handing was supposed to be better on the tendons!!
but i digress
mike
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epic_ed
Jan 21, 2003, 5:46 AM
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I hop on the Stairmaster with a backpack at the gym with various heavy objects in it when I'm training for mountaineering stuff (or approaches to aid climbs, as I've found out). It definitely adds to the difficulty level and is more realistic then just bumping up the speed to increase heart rate. Sure it's great to get in the real thing and hit the trail, but weather and work schedules don't always cooperate. If you're training for a specific summit attempt, or if you're just trying to get more efficient at humping huge loads of gear up to the start of a climb, then go for it.
Ed
[ This Message was edited by: up2top on 2003-01-20 21:48 ]
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flying_dutchman
Jan 21, 2003, 6:04 AM
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climb wearing your rack.
note: a couple of draws is not a rack
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galt
Jan 21, 2003, 6:12 AM
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At the Climbing Tower at UCF (where I work) we actually forbid people from doing this because of injury. (Take a fall on a cheap pack and 40 pounds comes plumiting towards your belayer... bad idea)
I've done it twice and I'll tell you it is HORRIBLE to do to your lower back. Honestly you're just asking for injury. It also kills your technique. Although you can improve strength your ballance is thrown off and it does a lot of harm to your form. And if you want strength just go do some push-ups.
Gluck!
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w6jxm
Jan 21, 2003, 6:14 AM
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I have a frind that has gone to the gym with a 15 pound diving belt. Even though that thing is not that heavy, it makes a huge difference in what you can climb compared to what you can normally. He is a mid '11s climber but was only able to manage a few climbs in the high tens. It was cool though cause the whole gym wanted to try the belt. I think it is a great workout for the gym, maybe not outside though.
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wyomingclimber
Jan 21, 2003, 4:43 PM
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Generally speaking, this is a bad idea for the reasons outlined above.
However, if you're a really good climber (say, onsight .12a 50% of the time) and you feel that your strength is lagging way behind your technique (very rare these days), then there are ways to do weighted climbing that make sense. See Eric Horst's new book for an in-depth explanation.
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hroldan
Jan 21, 2003, 5:12 PM
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I have found that is very useful but use little weight, wearing all the quickdraws you use outdoors makes more sense.
Is very important to get use to that weight when training at the gym if you plan to climb outdoors.
Don't use too much because it will AFECT your natural way of moving, not to mention injuries.
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daisuke
Jan 21, 2003, 5:50 PM
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wearing a pack sounds like a bad idea, it would throw off your center of gravity and training with it on would become clumsy and might not develop your climbing the way you want, might even wreck it if you do it too often even, I do like the diving belt idea tho!
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vegastradguy
Jan 21, 2003, 6:11 PM
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Before the first time I went on a multipitch, my partner made me climb 5.8's and 5.9's in the gym wearing his rack, since I would be seconding him, he wanted me to get a feel for the weight.
If I was really feeling productive, or wanted to start advancing my climbing grades quickly, I MIGHT bring my rack to the gym and climb with it.
A pack isnt a bad idea, if you climb outdoor multipitch with a daypack, use that one. Preferably with a waistbelt and a harness that allows a nice range of motion.
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wandt
Jan 21, 2003, 11:11 PM
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The trouble with climbing in a weighted pack is that it skews your centre of balance/gravity A LOT. It will make you really top-heavy. If you climb bigwalls with a backpack with spare gear, ropes, etc. this might be your cup of tea, but I don't think many folks do.
For weighted climbing I use a weight-belt. I think it weighs something like 35 or 40 lbs. It has certainly helped my strength, but I only use it once every two weeks because if I use it more than that I can really feel it in my elbows. Same with weighted pull-ups.
To get huge static strength try climbing fairly easy routes/problems keeping your hips square with the wall and using only the inside edges of your feet. Really suck your hips into the wall, and try to make the move absolutely static. For added pump, try locking off each move, essentially with your weight-bearing arm at full flexure. (is that the word? You know what I mean... the opposite of extension.)
Another tip: when climbing with a weightbelt, make sure to wear a harness, even if you're just bouldering. Otherwise you have a choice of tightening it to a painful degree, or losing your pants every time you drop down. ...not that that's ever happened to me.
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clymber
Jan 21, 2003, 11:20 PM
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at my gym a friend and I had a race up a 4 with a girl on each of our back. they weighed about 130 each....a 4 never felt so hard in all my life
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wlderdude
Jan 21, 2003, 11:42 PM
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Did THEY say they weiged 130, or did they REALLY weigh 130?
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john1987
Jan 21, 2003, 11:58 PM
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I havant climed with wieght but ive done pullups with wieght.
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clymber
Jan 22, 2003, 12:11 AM
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to me it felt like they weight a hell of a lot more..but dont want to tell them that
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rprp
Jan 22, 2003, 4:40 AM
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Get some small (2.5 or 5 lb) weights for a barbell and hang them from your harness with webbing. 10 to 20 lbs total is plenty. Then do a lot of laps on easy to medium climbs. I'd stay away from trying real hard stuff with extra weight. But it is good for long endurance workouts.
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spork73
Jan 22, 2003, 5:12 AM
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if you want to work out your arms go an an easy climb at the gym like a 5.6-7 and do it with only arms
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rjtrials
Jan 22, 2003, 6:23 AM
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As my good friend David pointed out earlier, I have used a diving belt during some visits to the gym. Although the weight is a bit closer to 30 pounds than fifteen
That is a decent percentage of my bodyweight (about 20%) and I really wouldn't recommend using that much of a percentage unless you had previously weight trained for you tendons. IMO the diving belt works better than a weighted pack because it stays close into your body, and it also doesnt throw off your balance too much.
I make sure to properly warm up my fingers and stick to the jugs. No crimpers with the extra weight. The goal for me was to strengthen all the supporting muscle tissue that really only gets used while climbing.
Once again, be VERY careful of hurting your tendons!!!
Good luck,
RJ
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maiorlive
Jan 23, 2003, 8:43 PM
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Contrary to what most people here have said, I'd say you should consider climbing with a weighted pack, but only if you're seriously considering guiding. The following is a quotation from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides description of the examination for an Assistant Rock Guide certification:
"The multipitch exam routes may be up to 5.10d and may have short sections of aid climbing, and will have the additional complications of route finding, endurance, natural hazards, and climbing with a pack."
And this is for full Rock Guide cert: "Multipitch exam routes may be up to 5.11 and may have short sections of aid climbing, and will have the additional complications of route finding, endurance, natural hazards, and climbing with a pack.
The suggestion is that the pack climbs could be much easier than the given ratings, but if your examiner didn't like you too much...
Anyway, there are times when you might want to climb with your pack. It's probably a good idea to know what it feels like and what your limits are before to try it.
W
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gakin
Jan 28, 2003, 5:54 PM
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If I am training with extra weight, I only use my rack. I have never used a pack, and couldn't recommend using one.
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ricardol
Jan 28, 2003, 6:56 PM
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I like the idea of climbing with my rack .. all the added weight swinging around as you make your moves definately has an impact on your ability to climb and definately changes how you balance ..
.. i'll have to see if my gym (planet granite) has any policies regarding people climbign with lots of gear on ..
-- ricardo
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texasclimber
Jan 28, 2003, 7:22 PM
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I've climbed witha pack on to get ready for multi pitch stuff. I put a rope in the pack and did labs. Stay on easier stuff and warm up well. Did I think it helped? Probably a little, but I think that if you are trying to build endurance then you should do MORE laps with no extra weight.
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overlord
Jan 28, 2003, 8:50 PM
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open handed grip is actually more dangerous to the tendons than a crimp, though the latter hurts more. thats because when youre using an openhanded grip youre pulling on muscles streched near their limints so they cant give slack and leghten when you put weight on them so you strech the weakest thing you can... your tendon, wich doesn stretch.
its the same as if you would be campusing and you go with both hands at the same time downwards ("jumping") and grip the lower bar with straight arms. say goodby to your shoulder or elbow or wrist.
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jt512
Jan 28, 2003, 9:22 PM
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Quote:
open handed grip is actually more dangerous to the tendons than a crimp,
Every authority on training for climbing disagrees with the above statement, and recommends avoiding the full crimp grip whenever possible.
-Jay
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neomagi
Apr 10, 2003, 1:35 PM
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training with added weight can be a big benefit to your training regiment, provided you don t push it too much. from my experience, i add weight to increase the strength in my muscels, never to really make my tendons stronger. the general rule that i suggest to people is simple, train indoors (if you can) how you plan on climbing outside. if you are a multi-pitch trad person, then slap on your rack and pack, if you are a sport person, slap on your draws. if you have trained that way, it won t be such a big shock when you get on that 5.7.
by the same token, added resistance training can be helpful if you do it intelligently. keep in mind that if you weigh 150, and you add 30 lbs, your tendons and ligaments are going to need time to adjust to the 20% increase in strain. that is a huge jump. start small, add 5-10 lbs, and work your way up. take a day or two off after training with weights, and i would suggest only training with added weight once a week.
there are lots of ways to climb stronger, as there are lots of aspects of getting stronger, make sure your training regiment focuses on the aspect you think it is.
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