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bmsullivan


Nov 27, 2001, 10:27 PM
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Hold that climb.....
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I was out at Joshua Tree over Thanksgiving weekend. It was awesome. The area was bigger than I had imagined and the climbs as well as climbers were in every direction.

My partner and I went to Double Dip. There was no on at the base waiting, and it looked as though the party on it was almost done. So we started to gear up. While flaking out our rope, the couple on the climb next to us told us we had to wait because they were going to climb it next and had been waiting. I wasn't sure really what to say, as they had obviously just started the other climb. My climbing partner did not have a lack of words. He told them that if they wanted it, they needed to rap off and get on it, otherwise, we were going because there was no one on it. I tend to agree with him. If your climbing something else, you can't lay claim to another climb. I have not encountered this at any crag before and was wondering if there is any ethical basis to hold a climb because a party started climbing another climb to pass the time while waiting for a specific climb.
Thanks
Brian


[ This Message was edited by: bmsullivan on 2001-11-30 23:39 ]


addiroids


Nov 27, 2001, 10:42 PM
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Yeah, Josh was a zoo this weekend. That's what we get for going climbing over a holiday.

I would tell them (politely) to f*ck off. You can't hold a climb no matter what. He who drops his rope first (and is racked and ready) gets the climb.

I also never wait in line for a climb. There is not enough time in this world to not climb. There's always something open nearby.

TRADitionally yours,

Addiroids


rocmonkey


Nov 29, 2001, 1:49 AM
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I may be going overboard with the RESPECT issue, but it is just so important to me.

These other climbers are like a child with two fists full of sweet standing in front of the sweety jar with a row of children behind him...yet he does not move because he still wants to get more sweets.

It sucks and those guys should wake up, get a life, or stay the hell away from crags where decent guys (and girls) climb.

breathe stone
R C


ecchastang


Nov 29, 2001, 6:21 AM
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there are plenty of routes at joshua tree for everyone.


awkward


Nov 29, 2001, 9:17 AM
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To sound like everyone else:
Politely inform them that it is a first rope first serve system. Don't yell at them.

-Bryan


coach713
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Nov 29, 2001, 9:38 AM
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Hey, maybe this is a little different, but I have experianced it a number of times now.

We have gone climbing, and gone to a specific place that had 7 or 8 climbs. There will be about 3 or 4 guys/kids there, and they will have every climb either top roped, or have a quickdraw set up on the first bolt or protection and a half rope hung from it. Then they will all be working and climbing one climb and slowly working their way down.

Once I asked if they would be long, and one guy told me that they were working on Redpointing all the climbs so it would be a while.

What do you do? We just turn around and head somewhere else. But for 3 or 4 guys/kids to tie up 7 or 8 routes I thought was a little much.

Thanks,
Ron


hangerlessbolt


Dec 5, 2001, 11:30 AM
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Running into this situation at Josh isn't too bad in that there are plenty of other climbs in the park to hit. However, on much smaller crags, this can become a real pain.
I have asked people to pull their ropes if they weren't on a climb. Letting the group know that "gang-roping' was highly frowned upon. Nearly came to blows on a few occasions. I find that it's usually people that have climbed at the gym a few times and feel that they're ready for real rock, that pull these antics.
If it's going to get ugly (and you don't think that you or your partner can kick their a$$es) you might want to bail and come back another day.


cormac


Dec 5, 2001, 1:09 PM
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BMS, you did the proper thing. That other group was out of line telling you they had that climb "reserved". I've been to Josh a number of times and the etiquette, especially at a popular slab like Echo Rock, is first-come, first served. And if you want it (next), camp out and wait for it. I've had to do this on one of my favorite climbs a little to the right of DD, "Stick to What".

The other side of this is when a group starts up a climb before you (your follower) isn't even done. I think that's just as rude. It's one thing to gear up and flake out your rope, but don't start the route until you know the previous group is off. (this happens at places like Echo rock where people generally walk off, and not rappel down).

As has been mentioned, there is so much to climb at Josh, that you can simply go elsewhere. Hint: One thing I've noticed is that the further into the park you go, the less crowded. There are climbers all over the different outcroppings, but it seems if you get further in, there are less people to deal with.


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