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punk
Jan 26, 2003, 3:54 AM
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Finally BD came with the right Idea for a belay device the new ATC-XP
Did anyone tried it what is the word
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curt
Jan 26, 2003, 4:01 AM
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ATC-XP? Is this a new Black Diamond / Microsoft device?
Curt
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benkiessel
Jan 26, 2003, 6:48 AM
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where did you see it? i just looked all over there website and could not find it.
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jomamazaho
Jan 26, 2003, 7:03 AM
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you can find them at the REI web site at http://www.rei.com/online/store/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=40000008000&langId=-1&storeId=8000&categoryId=4500695
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krustyklimber
Jan 26, 2003, 7:22 AM
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Doesn't look like they've changed much...
I still think the OP SBG is a better device!
Jeff
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punk
Jan 26, 2003, 7:32 AM
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Here It Is
BTW I second Krusty
it is just nice that they took the first baby step in the right direction
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2003-02-05 14:26 ]
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kman
Jan 26, 2003, 7:48 PM
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That's one sexy lookin unit
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nailzz
Jan 26, 2003, 8:08 PM
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Quote:
That's one sexy lookin unit
That it is! It looks like it was designed with the stainless steel kitchen appliances trend in mind.
So, we all know what ATC stands for, any word on what the XP designates? I like the Microsoft idea ... hehe. Maybe BD is going to take a clue from Bill Gates and make all of their gear 'exclusively compatible.' i.e. You can only use the ATC XP with a BD biner which can only be clipped to a BD harness which can only be worn with BD climbing pants which .... well you get the point.
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stevematthys
Jan 27, 2003, 12:04 AM
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xp = more money spent
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djnibs
Jan 27, 2003, 12:19 AM
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It looks spiffy. I had an SBGII and loved it. I guess it is a superior design?!?!? oh well. More money spent.
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jomamazaho
Jan 27, 2003, 4:04 AM
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It's pretty expensive for a belay/rapel device. It can only go one way too, other devices it doesn't matter which way it goes and they work just fine so my money isn't going toward this contraption.
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tim
Jan 27, 2003, 4:24 AM
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%@#$ that thing. get a damn Reverso and be happy.
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knate
Jan 28, 2003, 2:40 AM
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i got to see them designing this thing, its cool, but really just a shinny ATC with cleats for added control. the swank factor though, it comes in three colors!(WOOOHOO)
-knate-
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alpinerocket
Jan 28, 2003, 3:05 AM
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I agree with TIM, REVERSO baby, it is the only way to go, belay device, auto lock belay device, rapell device with x-tra friction mode for skinyes and an ascender. It is sooo functional. John
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climbsomething
Jan 28, 2003, 3:17 AM
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Looks like a Trango Jaws to me.
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missedyno
Jan 28, 2003, 3:17 AM
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*sniffle* i like my olllld atc...
besides, this thing just looks like the result of my sbg and my atc hanging out for too long together unsupervised!
i'll probably check it out soon....
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punk
Feb 5, 2003, 9:53 PM
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Just wondering
all of u die hard BD ATC lovers...what u say about the ATC now obviously even BD is thinking that this device sucks that they had to come with new crap
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elvislegs
Feb 5, 2003, 10:44 PM
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Super, another device for the already flooded market. Your belay toy is just a little piece of equipment, pick one and move on. My reverso and the munter will serve me fine until... for ever.
My rating?
Five eye rolls.
Would have gotten six if they offered to monogram it for five bucks extra.
To paraphrase a very good movie:
"You Are not your %@#$_ING belay device"
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duracellbunny
Feb 5, 2003, 11:10 PM
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I agree with pornstarr when he says that they just want to sell more stuff. I think that is the same product with a different face
[ This Message was edited by: duracellbunny on 2003-02-05 15:11 ]
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dirtme
Feb 6, 2003, 5:54 PM
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Man, you guys are bitter. I have to admit, I'm always looking for the next best thing. I ended up buying one of these from Shorelinemtn.com on Tuesday. Had one night in the gym with it and I was quite pleased. The devices I have been using was a Reverso for Trad and GriGri for Sport. I like the Reverso ONLY for belaying the second. I find that rapelling works my hands too much and belaying a leader doesn't work too well, especially when they have to hang. The GriGri has its obvious issues. My wife uses one of those Jaws so I've used it on occasion too.
Anyway, to make a long story short, I liked the ATC XP. For belaying leaders it definitely caught much better then a regular atc, especially compared to a reverso. The rope was also release easily after a fall. On my wife's Jaws, the rope seems to catch too tightly.
It's pretty pathetic but it seems I have to add another belay device to my repertoire. I'm not sure where it fits in my climbing bag of tools but it's a good device that is well built and works as advertised.
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dirtme
Feb 6, 2003, 5:55 PM
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Oh, in the manual, I think it was implying that XP stands for eXtra Power. Damn I hate marketing people. Well, I hate them all except for my wife.
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jt512
Feb 6, 2003, 6:16 PM
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I hope they're not planning on discontinuing the old ATC. That would be the dumbest move since New Coke.
-Jay
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dig_scott
Feb 6, 2003, 6:22 PM
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ive held one in my hands...
its pretty much the same as an atc but with the grooves. im quessing more friction because the rope wedges into the grooves. seems like it could work pretty well.
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jt512
Feb 6, 2003, 8:05 PM
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Everybody writes as if this greater holding power is a good thing. The old ATC would provide about 500 lb of braking force. With greater loads, as occur in hard falls, the device automatically provides a dynamic belay, protecting the anchors and the leader.
-Jay
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brianinslc
Feb 6, 2003, 8:45 PM
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I think the new ATC-XP will be a winner.
I have a Omega Superior Belay Gadget and I really like it for skinny cords. But, they discontinued that unit, and replaced it with the clunkier and longer stemmed SBG-II. My SBG is about worn out (I burn thru a few rap devices a year, it seems) so I need a replacement. Also, doesn't seem to work that well for anything but 8 - 8.5mm ropes (really hard to feed a fat rope whilst belaying a fast leader).
I've seen a Ti prototype of the ATC-XP in use and was impressed by the geometry and friction for rappelling. As well as a non grooved out aluminum version. Nice, variable friction that seemed to work well with all rope diameters.
One of my petty complaints about the SBG was that on a biner, it tends to make a bunch of noise, which can be dealt with by liberal use of tool dip. ATC-XP doesn't have this problem as it hangs below a biner so won't rattle.
So, I'll be gettin' an ATC XP for sure.
Oh, I heard the "XP" stands for "xtra pretentious" har har har...
Brian in SLC
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