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rrrADAM
Jan 27, 2003, 1:10 PM
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Well... I said I would never do it, as I hate to be cold and wet, but I am jazzed I went.
Did 2 climbs, and even led both... One grade 2 and one grade 3+ as Tim says. Had to wear Tim's boots, which were a bit too big, but no problems. Onsighted both, if the term applies to Ice, but I need to learn how to screw in the ices screws more proficiently, as most of my time was spent setting the screws. But I did smoke on both routes while leading, so there !!!
Pics to come soon.
And Tim... The hike was not "easier than Old Rag".
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tim
Jan 27, 2003, 1:18 PM
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First things first, our man Steve has got an account on here. I'll leave it up to him to post his screen name, but apparently the frightening sprayfest that is rc.com was not enough to scare him away. Bless his heart...
As for grades, let's not get all New Jack OK? 3+ is a bit of an exaggeration. But, you did an exceptional job sewing it up, probably to the point that it felt more like a 3+ ... If we go up to Willoughby you can get on some WI4-and-up stuff that will really get your juices going. Also, the pictures will probably qualify as 'rad' spray then
I got the first wave of pics from Steve, who brought them over and ripped them all to JPEGs as well. They're good stuff. Here's one that I down-sized a bit to load faster:
http://flaver.com/...ray/adam-grimace.jpg
Not bad for a first outing! Great angles and timing on Steve's part, too. It sounds like Pat and Steve are up for more trips (well, *A* trip in Pat's case, but I digress). So this could be a pretty cool season afterall.
ps. The biggest single draw for Willoughby? It is literally Right By The Damn Road. And it happens to be 1000' tall.
[ This Message was edited by: tim on 2003-01-27 06:48 ]
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oudinardin
Jan 27, 2003, 1:51 PM
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It's about time Adam. Maybe now more posts will be about mixed climbing. That's where it's at. Get your Truckers Atlas and come up to Montana. Almost 5000 posts! Keep up the great work.
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andy_lemon
Jan 27, 2003, 2:34 PM
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It's got to suck smoking while leading on ice. I bet you had slobber running down your chin, then freezing forming an ice pinnacle.... when back on the ground Tim asks if he can climb your chin-sickle.
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one900johnnyk
Jan 27, 2003, 2:52 PM
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wow i used to think ice climbing was BS but it is sounding and looking better and better. where did you go? white oak? if so, i was wondering if there is any rock climbing there at all?? and you say the hike on white oak is bad? it's been so many years since i've been i can't remember. thanks and that sounds like an awesome time.
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tim
Jan 27, 2003, 2:59 PM
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Yeah if you want to see some really rad pics, check out this month's issue of Vermont Life magazine, my former climbing partner Alden Pellett is a professional PJ and studly ice climber and he did the photography for a cover story on ice climbing.
http://www.vtlife.com/vtlife/current_issue/contents.html
The cover shot is taken up at Lake Willoughby, some dude soloing on what looks like Who's Who In Outer Space. The thing you can't see from all the pictures is that Alden solos routes much harder and scarier than most people can even lead -- laps on Mindbender, mixed routes, etc. He is also one of the most fun climbing partners I have ever had, so all of youse should run out and buy a copy of the mag. I saw it at a Borders in Manassas, for example!
[ This Message was edited by: tim on 2003-01-27 07:11 ]
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i.karen
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Jan 27, 2003, 4:56 PM
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YOU LOOK SO SO CUTE!!!!
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rrrADAM
Jan 27, 2003, 5:13 PM
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That's "trick photography" baby... I was just as ugly Saturday, as I am always.
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polarwid
Jan 27, 2003, 5:46 PM
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ALLRIGHT ADAM!!!
Welcome to the real world, you can climb anytime, anywhere now!!! The whole world is now your playground no matter where you are. COME ON UP TO VALDEZ and see what ROADSIDE 1000 foot routes really look like, though I think it is colder there than here!
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punk
Jan 27, 2003, 5:47 PM
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So you have seen the light....
Next time u will be in my neighborhood let me know I would like to join
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theaccountant
Jan 27, 2003, 5:58 PM
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Tim, Adam, Had a great time on Saturday. Hope I didn't bore you guys with the financial info. I'll be at ET Wed night, looking to go to PA possibly Sat & Sun.
Tim, I picked up a rack of screws.
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polarwid
Jan 27, 2003, 6:07 PM
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Also, Ice Climbing is fun, cause it is all about swinging sharp things, and kicking things, and bashing things, and screwing things, and TOOLs...ARH,ARH,ARHARH!!!
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mreardon
Jan 27, 2003, 6:12 PM
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You know the doc' said no sharp instruments until after the parole hearing! Now put down the pix and walk away from the dark side... It's too cold over there for all real climbers... That's it, here's a ciggie if you're a good boy about it
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gawd
Jan 27, 2003, 6:16 PM
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polarwind,
i will agree with your assement that ice climbing is fun. but bashing and smashing and kicking, are poor technique and ineffiecent.
draft, hook and tink.
save screws for vert.
but as long as you are having fun, i guess that is all that matters.
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tim
Jan 27, 2003, 6:41 PM
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finally I feel like gawd and I agree on at least one aspect of ice... you will climb harder if you hook instead of bashing. I like mono points for the same reason -- instead of kicking in your points, you can re-use your pick holes better than 90% of the time on good ice.
Gawd, when you did the Replicant was it in full WI6 conditions? If so my hat is off to you, thin vertical stuff is scary as hell.
Adam did get on a good 30' vertical section, it just wasn't very long. The Montrealers we met suggested about WI2+/3- based on the shortness of the vertical section. FWIW Adam placed all his screws from hanging vertical stances, and did the Guy Lacelle finger-wiggle when he remembered to, now all he has to work on is single-stick placements and he'll be tearing up WI5's...
And if/when that happens we *will* be getting pictures of it. Lake Willoughby is only $99 away from DC, you know.
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polarwid
Jan 27, 2003, 6:53 PM
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I have to agree with GAWD on this one also, just was pointing out the FUN of climbing ice. There is more technique to it than appears to the naked eye!
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gawd
Jan 27, 2003, 6:56 PM
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climbed it in feb 01 and it was in fine conditions. prolly like 5+. but super super over my head at the time. glad i didnt die. the trophey wall is the best place to climb hands down.
now all i need to do is finnish vapours.
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rrrADAM
Jan 27, 2003, 7:43 PM
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Steve... Good to see you found the site.
This is the 3rd in our party, and the guy who took the pic Tim posted.
Welcome aboard my friend.
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climber1
Jan 27, 2003, 8:00 PM
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Adam, glad to see you crossed over. maybe you'll try some mountaineering.
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calamity_chk
Jan 27, 2003, 8:15 PM
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Quote:
Ice Climbing is fun, cause it is all about swinging sharp things, and kicking things, and bashing things, and screwing things, and TOOLs...ARH,ARH,ARH ARH!!!
hmm, maybe it's time that i look into expanding my horizons beyond rock .
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theaccountant
Jan 27, 2003, 8:37 PM
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After hearing Tim rave about the mono-points, I think I'll acquire a pair, any suggestions as to which pair?
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gawd
Jan 27, 2003, 8:56 PM
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accoutant,
rambo comps are a good base platform to climb with.
or the charlet moser m10
they are both practically the same and you will not noticed the diffrences between them. dont let anyone tell you any different. it is the climber that climbs, not the gear.
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punk
Jan 27, 2003, 9:11 PM
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WORD
Gawd,
how u doing u little prick
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rrrADAM
Jan 28, 2003, 10:21 PM
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gawd... Agreed about the technique thing, as I have none, and I whacked and hacked my way up.
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climbingpride
Jan 28, 2003, 10:46 PM
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WOW! Hooking up from coast to coast!
*amazed
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