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Daisy Chains?
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talons05


Nov 29, 2001, 3:21 PM
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Daisy Chains?
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For what, and how are Daisy Chains used?

AW


howieehrlich


Nov 29, 2001, 3:32 PM
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They are used for aiding, multi-pitch sport routes and anchors(I prefer to just tie off a sling for an anchor though). To connect, just girth-hitch it to your harness and clip a biner through ONE loop and to the anchor point. Do not clip multiple loops with the same biner since it reduces the strength, and if it breaks, you fall.


atg200


Nov 29, 2001, 4:08 PM
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hi,

do not ever use a daisy chain to connect to an anchor. they are designed for bodyweight only. the sling is full strength, but the loops are not strong enough to hold a significant fall(for instance a bad leader fall directly onto the belay).

daisy chains are great for aid climbing, and nice for organizing gear.

andrew


talons05


Nov 29, 2001, 4:48 PM
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So can they be used at a hanging/semi-hanging belay to attach yourself to an anchor?

AW


elcapbuzz


Nov 29, 2001, 4:58 PM
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OK, I see there are some confusion. Daisy chains are designed for moderate to hard aid. You girth-hitch them to your harness by the same loops you tie into the rope with. Also, you need a fifi hook (a metal hook that has an eye-hole near the bend of the hook). You girth-hitch the fifi the same way as the daisy's. Now, when your climbing sketchy placements and you need to rest, shift weight or drink a beer, you can place the fifi in one of the loops of the daisy. The eye-hole on the fifi is to tie a tassle or pig-tail to. When your ready to move, simply pull on the pig-tail and it is easily removed from the loop. I use a bright color for the pig-tail. Also, there is an adjustable daisy on the market. It's great for roofs, overhangs, or if you don't have a lot of upper body strength. Oh, one other thing. I don't see any problem to cliping both daisy chains to the belay, but you MUST be tied into the lead rope to a bomber equalized system.


talons05


Nov 29, 2001, 5:03 PM
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Ok. I want to use it on multi pitch TRAD climbs, just as a tool to keep my distance from the wall adjustable. As long as I back it up (tied in with the rope) it should be safe, right?

AW


talons05


Nov 29, 2001, 8:03 PM
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Haha, I am the local climbing shop.

AW


jbur


Nov 29, 2001, 9:06 PM
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Always use the rope as your main connection to the anchor. Then you can use the daisy to adjust your hang.


talons05


Nov 29, 2001, 9:14 PM
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exactly.

Thanks guys

AW


dustinap
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Nov 29, 2001, 10:19 PM
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Daisy chains make great directionals.

The perfect example is you have a 4 piece anchor equalized with a cordallete, but your cordallete isn't completely snug, and you'd probably get lifted off your feet if a fall occured by your leader. Or this could have an effect of your second taking a hard fall and pulling you off a ledge.

Now, since your cordollete isn't completely snug, you will indeed move. And we all know it can be hard to get a snug cordollete when you have all your pieces close to eachother!

This is when you find the best piece to use as a directional on your anchor, that'll withstand the proper pull.

Example: A nut in a flaring crack probably isn't going to be holding upward force, but a #3 cam in crack that is running pararell with your feet ain't going no where.

So, you have your main tie in point, your rope with a eight with a loop tied into it clipped into your main anchor point.

Now, you have that #3 cam that ain't going no where if your leader pulls you upward, snug yourself onto that thing with the daisy, you should be able to move alittle, but not get lifted up during a fall.

Now, you also want to make sure that you have the daisy running in a way that you aren't going to get flipped, or the chain is behind your leg or anything where it could potentially hurt you, after all it is there to help you!

On a hanging belay these can obviously be used to keep yourself tight on the anchor, but ALWAYS back it up.

These are also nice for a quick clip in on the anchor. It is hard to tie your anchor knot and clip it to the anchor with one hand.

Also, if you must cheat on a climb, you could always use your daisy to aid a move.
{:-P}

Remeber, always back that thing up!


climb512


Nov 29, 2001, 10:29 PM
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thanks for the beta on the loop and ends of the daisy chain strengths. in the future i will be more cautious on its use. we use it to tie in to the anchor and come off belay. thanks again for the beta.


talons05


Nov 29, 2001, 10:39 PM
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Hey dustin, that's exactly the info I needed. Thanks.

AW


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