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texplorer


Jan 30, 2003, 5:59 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2002
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The Titan  (North_America: United_States: Utah: Moab: Fisher_Towers)
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Looking for some beta from anyone who has done the Titan recently.


cologman


Jan 30, 2003, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2002
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The Titan [In reply to]
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By recently what do you mean? I was on it last April. Hope to get on it again this spring.


texplorer


Feb 3, 2003, 10:03 PM
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The Titan [In reply to]
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Yea, that's recent enough. Did you take any pins, should I bring a bolt kid etc (doing the 50 crowded route -FoF)


cologman


Feb 4, 2003, 12:55 PM
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The Titan [In reply to]
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A bolt kit is not a bad idea as several of the bolts on the last 2 pitches are either missing or manky. A smattering of pins makes your life a little easier although it will go clean. I don't remember exactly what we took for pins although we didn't use many of them. Refer to Bjornstad's Desert Rock III for a suggested pin list. Camp up under the climb and jug your lines. If your fast you can make it to the top of p6 and retreat from there. Jugging back the next will involve some free jugging but gives easy access to the final pitches.


atg200


Feb 4, 2003, 2:25 PM
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The Titan [In reply to]
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check out the topo on climbingmoab.com - its good and a number of poeple there have climbed the route. i've only done the furst pitch of the sundevil so far which i did hammerless - bring as many red aliens and lowe balls as you can if you do that route.


rideandclimbkid


Feb 4, 2003, 2:52 PM
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The Titan [In reply to]
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dont bail and camp...BIGWALL IT! it would be a light wall but why rush and do in in two days camping at the base when you can take your time, enjoy it to the max, and sleep on the rock for 2 nights?


atg200


Feb 4, 2003, 3:10 PM
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The Titan [In reply to]
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yuck. ever been in the fishers? hauling would suck bad on the finger of fate because of all the traverses. better to fix and fire.


texplorer


Feb 4, 2003, 7:19 PM
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The Titan [In reply to]
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Thanks to all, great beta -although I'm not planning on making it a bigwall multi-night adventure. I'll be there in late march.


cologman


Feb 4, 2003, 7:44 PM
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The Titan [In reply to]
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Andy,
You want to pair up for another try on the Sundevil this spring? I haven't been on it but I'd be game to try.
Jeff


atg200


Feb 5, 2003, 8:44 AM
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The Titan [In reply to]
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i could be talked into it if you are willing to lead the 5.9 mud pitch cologman. i don't mind leading the hard aid, but i am not willing to lead that free pitch. the first pitch is the best pitch i have ever done in my life - it is beautiful!


cologman


Feb 5, 2003, 12:18 PM
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The Titan [In reply to]
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Andy,
I don't know much more about those pitches than what I've seen from the ground and read in Bjornstads guide. Certainly within my zone. What do know that maybe I should know.
Jeff
I watched a French climber(?) and his girl friend free that first pitch over a couple of days last spring. They had it in mind to free the whole route. Don't know if they managed it or not. What I saw was d$mned impressive
[ This Message was edited by: cologman on 2003-02-05 12:19 ]

[ This Message was edited by: cologman on 2003-02-05 12:22 ]


climb_nc


Dec 22, 2004, 9:09 AM
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The Finger [In reply to]
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I did the route last year hammerless. Although my buddy did use a pin-nut stack in the crux pitch. If you've never climbed in the Fishers yet, your in for a treat! You'll never take granite climbing for grantid ever again.


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