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vertical_reality
Feb 3, 2003, 8:11 PM
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Does having a twist in a runner affect its strength? The reason I ask is becuase I'm trying to learn everything I can before I start lead climbing in the Spring. Yesterday I practiced multi-directional pro and used a single closed runner to attach both peices of pro with two clove hitches and this resulted in the runner being twisted significantly. Will this affect the strength of the runner? Is there a way of doing it so that no twists are made?
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stevematthys
Feb 3, 2003, 8:33 PM
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a figure 8 in runners is a b*tch to get out.
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baywolf
Feb 3, 2003, 8:33 PM
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In my opinion the twists are insignificant.
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shortfatoldguy
Feb 3, 2003, 8:34 PM
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Don't have any hard data to bring to bear here, but I would consider two things: 1) sewn Spectra runners are way, way strong, and 2) when you're rigging a first piece like this (at least as I understand from your post), the lion's share of the force will fall onto the top piece--the bottom piece being there keep the top piece from ripping. So I wouldn't worry too much. (wrt to the second post, above, you're going for multi-directional pro, so I'd rig the *first* piece as you describe; later pieces, say, before a crux, I'd equalize somehow as described in that post -- but I'm no authority, I just know what I read) [edit for clarity] [ This Message was edited by: shortfatoldguy on 2003-02-03 12:38 ]
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kman
Feb 3, 2003, 8:35 PM
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I use sewn runners to make my nuts multi-directional using the clove hitch method. Never had the problem of them twisting up though. You sure your doing it right?
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aaron4peace
Feb 3, 2003, 8:36 PM
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then tie a figure 9, one more twist, its just as strong and easier to get out. But I have personally never had a problem untying an 8, whatever you do, dont use an overhand. Also, use spectra, it slips out easier
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vertical_reality
Feb 3, 2003, 9:14 PM
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kman, I do tie the clove hitch correctly, maybe its just how I make my loops. I dunno, I'll have to mess around with it again tonight.
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kman
Feb 3, 2003, 9:26 PM
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Yeah play around a bit. I keep mine flat against itself when I tie it. Know what I mean?
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duskerhu
Feb 4, 2003, 10:44 AM
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v-r I think the knots themselves would definately be weaker than any twists in the runner but even then, spectra and nylon runners are very strong. You should be able to practice that clove hitch a bit and get it down without most of the twists... duskerhu
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awsclimber
Feb 4, 2003, 1:56 PM
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Some runners by wild country even come with a single twist already in them, it makes the rack a bit more nicely, but they do have the twist when extended
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