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tomanox


Aug 20, 2001, 3:54 PM
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I live an hours drive from the nearest rock gym and I used to go climbing once a week and I found it took a long time to get stronger. My car broke down and now I train at home. I have a long wooden fence with small wooden holds for endurance training, and an over hanging section in my garage for power training. I train 5-6 days a week for about 50minutes a day. I really want to get good and at the moment I am climbing about 5.11a-b. Do any of you out there have any really good training tips or advice about my training? I am also interested in soft tissue that can build up around your nuckles if you train to much. Do any of you know any thing about that? I come from New Zealand and Im 18 years old and have been climbing for about a year.


jds100


Aug 21, 2001, 9:21 PM
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Check Neil Gresham's trainging info on www.planetfear.com. It's outstanding!


manboy


Aug 21, 2001, 11:33 PM
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[ This Message was edited by: manboy on 2001-10-05 21:53 ]


manboy


Aug 22, 2001, 10:46 AM
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he is 18 and only climbs 5.11-, therefore he doesn't need as much rest as somebody older that climbs harder. also, he did not say he was power training, he said he's training 5-6 days a week 50 min a day, he didn't specify what kind of training he is doing. that means he's only training 4-5 hours a week. when i was 18 i was climbing/training about 40-50 hours a week.

Tomanox, i would suggest MORE training if you want to improve, not less. you definately do NOT need more rest if you're only training 4-5 hours a week. perhaps you should train (climb) more hours during "on days", but then take more days off too. for example, you could climb/train 4 hours a day, but only 4 days a week, this will more than triple your amount of total hours per week, and give your body at least another day of resting.

[ This Message was edited by: manboy on 2001-08-22 10:53 ]


johntherock


Feb 1, 2003, 3:52 AM
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Hey JDS 100, give us a better fix on "Neil Gresham's trainging info on www.planetfear.com. It's outstanding!" All I can see is books to buy and courses! Is that what you were referring to??


johntherock


Feb 1, 2003, 3:52 AM
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Hey JDS 100, give us a better fix on "Neil Gresham's trainging info on www.planetfear.com. It's outstanding!" All I can see is books to buy and courses! Is that what you were referring to??


overlord


Feb 1, 2003, 4:20 AM
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the man IS forgeeting about resting. this leads to injury. tendons need at least 24h of rest after pover training, better 48. so, like manboy said, climb more on your training days and have only 3-4training day per week. this should improve your climbing. and dont think that youre reste if you climb 6 day a week only 50min per day. thats overtraining.

CLIMB ON


onemistakebigpancake


Feb 1, 2003, 3:16 PM
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Try this link:
http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/articles/index.html
hope it's what you're looking for


lox


Feb 1, 2003, 8:29 PM
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You don't need to frakin' go read some sheisty website.

Do what manboy said about adjusting your schedule to on/off days and longer sessions.

Train ONLY POWER by creating the most inspiring and savage boulder problems on your overhang as you can... after warming up well on a little traverse and some moderates (duh.)...

Buy a crashpad and figure out some way to get to castle hill twice a month...

There is hella good rock in your country. If you train power, you can train endurance later, when you need it... but your powerbase will be built already.

And boldering will increase your enjoyment climbing outside (it is most like yout training).


pjhurtado


Feb 1, 2003, 8:48 PM
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Cross train and focus on specific areas...

Work on strengthening your back, shoulders, trunk (abdominal muscles, obliques, etc.), rotator cuffs, etc. Definately have fun with it though - for example, work on one armed pull-ups, then start doing them off smaller and smaller holds... Work on endurance too (How many pullups can you do? Situps? Dips?). Also work on flexability - it comes in handy when you need to span wide gaps between holds with your legs (think of doing the splits), make high steps (foot-hand matches maybe?) and so on and so forth. But for sure - just climb more. Indeed, you need to rest your muscles and tendons to give your body time to repair all the cellular and tissue level damage that occurs during a hard workout - this is what brings you the strength so give it time to happen.

One last thing, take your time with tendon strengthening exercises (i.e. finger strengthening stuff) - tendons (and ligaments) take a whole lot longer than muscle to recover from injury and strengthen, so if you up your muscular strength too quickly you can actually increase your chances of serious tendon injuries which can keep you off the rock for months... Youch!


lox


Feb 1, 2003, 9:02 PM
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Yeah... I forgot to add CORE MUSCLES are hella importasnt... situps ROCK.

And drink hella water.


overlord


Feb 10, 2003, 7:48 AM
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and if you develop abs, dont forget to develop the lower back muscles. also develop the opposing muscles... helps keep the injury away

CLIMB ON


edge


Apr 12, 2013, 12:09 PM
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climberdude17 wrote:
I have at least 12 years climbing, focusing on grade... i have tried alot of trainings and experimented with myself alot. the bes training for me is to follow a 3-month regime... the first month is only endurance, doing alot of movements in the gymyou should do about 50% of intensitivity, next month is about middle endurance which means less movements, intense movements forncing your body capacity to your 85%, the last month full power about 5 to 10 movements hard boulders and giving your 95%-100%. thats a great training and ofcourse alot of physical excersice to compliment your regme... here i leave an example of a great excersise to compliment your regime http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVCDp2qG0NU
good luck!
You bump a 10 year old thread to post a link with no tags, and then do the same to two other threads? I'm not watching out of principle.


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