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kriso9tails
Dec 4, 2001, 8:31 PM
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Would these be practical for climbing photography? Maybe for dynos. I don't have any experience with either but I've seen both used, especially during comps. It almost seems like cheating, but there are some shots that would be too hard to get otherwise.
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saltspringer
Dec 5, 2001, 3:39 AM
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a motor drive on a camera definitely helps whether indoor or out especially if you are trying to capture a specific sequence of shots. Most new cameras have built in motor drives & older ones are usually equiped to take one. As for strobes...well, they're alot of money (for decent ones) and all of the gear can get in the way inside a gym: if you want to make money by shooting indoor climbing, strobes or a very good bounce flash unit are essential to maintain colour balance for printing. Fill-flash can also enhance outdoor shots that include full-sun and openn-shade
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kriso9tails
Dec 5, 2001, 4:36 PM
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Unfortunately the camera that I use (Nikon FG) won't take a motor drive, but when I get a new camera (maybe an FM or F3) I'll have these options available. What's a fill flash?
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saltspringer
Dec 10, 2001, 12:08 PM
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The F3 is a good choice for an upgrade from the FG...there are lots of used F3's out there but you need to make sure that the camera hasn't been worn out! Look for wear marks on the inside of the camera where the film path can be seen: the metal rails on top and bottom of the shutter assembly & the pressure plate on the inside of the back of the camera. Don't worry too much about cosmetic problems (brassing, worn paint) or dust in the viewfinder (common problem). Yhe only problem with F3's is that they don't take a regular hotshoe type flash mount so you have to either buy a special flash, get an adapter or use an off-camera flash with an accessory cord. The best thing about the F3 is that it's totally bombproof and is a professional camera.
Fill-flash is a technique that is used to balance a highlight area (full sun) with a shadow area (open shade)so that there is detail in both areas...very common in portraiture as well when there is a subject being photographed during a sunset with their back to the sun: if you expose for the sun, your subject is silouetted, if you expose for the subject, your sunset is overexposed. Solution: balance the output of the flash with the ambient light available (sunlight) so that the subject gets enough flash to illuminate it but not so much that it doesn't "fit in" with the rest of the picture. A common use of fill flash in climbing would be under a roof or big overhang where the sun isn't on the climber & where the photographer is fairly close to the climber.
Hope that helps a bit
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kriso9tails
Dec 31, 2001, 3:31 PM
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Got me an F3 fer Christmas I did. THe light meter took a little bit of getting used to, but now I really like it. I can get a decent motor winder for cheap just to play around with. Maybe when I get some cash I can build up my arsenal abit more.
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socialclimber
Jan 4, 2002, 6:50 AM
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I own a Nikon FM2 which was just the ducks guts back in 1988. It's a good back country camera for two reasons. 1. It has a Titainium body so it's damn near bullet proof, and 2.It's totally manual so it doesn't eat a constant supply of battries.
Does the reliance on battery power not bother you guys?
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kriso9tails
Jan 4, 2002, 3:34 PM
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Batteries aren't a huge concern for me. The F3 isn't all that electronic (I think it was designed in 1980 so they weren't to crazy with all the gizmos yet) The FM models (I'm not sure how many there are) are all still supposed to be highly recommended, but I've only ever seen one, and I don't know all that much about them, but I guess you do. Does it have any electronic components?
[ This Message was edited by: kriso9tails on 2002-01-04 12:35 ]
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