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cabouldering
Jan 25, 2003, 1:12 PM
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I am planning a February 2003 roadtrip to El Portrero Chico. Any beta or advice from those that have gone before me?
Thanks.
CABouldering
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jds100
Jan 25, 2003, 4:06 PM
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[small]This topic was moved to the Regional Discussions forum by jds100[/small]
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tav8816
Jan 25, 2003, 6:21 PM
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Yes, you will have a great time. I do not know how much you know so please ignore any redundant info. I would recommend a 70 meter rope but most say a 60 is fine. Bring a lot of draws to link pitches. Be sure to do a long route like Black Cat Bone, or Estralita (sp?). You might start at the Jungle wall and and do a short multipitch to get used to the rock and all that.
I would suggest staying at La Posada. They have a great set-up and the kitchen has to be the nicest down there. The owners are super cool just like most of the camp ground owners down there. Many people stay at Homero's too. Be sure to stop by there (Homero's) at least to buy a guide from Tammy.
Besides climbing do not miss market day (twice a week) and Luis' Tacos on Saturday night. Also after Luis' Tacos be sure to find the live wrestling, a highlight of the trip. Lastly be sure to buy a hamburgesa especial (sp?) at the Resaurant Express on the right as entering town. Double meat, double cheese, slice of ham, avocado, refried beans, and all the usual fixings. The fries are the worst you will ever have in you life but the burger is worth it.
Find out all the rules about border crossing or they WILL send you back. If you have questions about this please post back.
Now that I have told you everything you probably already know, enjoy it, I am envious.
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arsenalcrater
Jan 25, 2003, 7:20 PM
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Yes, good luck and have a great time!!! Just please take care. Remember Jose' Pereyra!!!
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cabouldering
Jan 27, 2003, 12:34 PM
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Thanks. I have the border crossing beta. I was interested in local information once you are there.
CABouldering
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cabouldering
Feb 4, 2003, 2:56 PM
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Headed North before going South. Climbed three days at the Red River Gorge with friends. Sunday was as good as a winter climbing day can get at Military and Left Flank. Went to the Motherload for the first time on this trip. Wow!!!
CABouldering
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cabouldering
Feb 13, 2003, 6:58 PM
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Hi,
I am having a wonderful time in Mexico. I am starting my second week at Homero´s Campground near the mouth of El Portrero Chico in Hildago, Nuevo Leon. Tuesday and Friday are market days. The town square and street there is filled with temporary vendors of all types. I purchased more fruits, vegetables, at the market. I also purchased some cervezas.
I onsighted all of the 7 pitches of a long sport route called The Treasure Of The Sierra Madre yesterday. I climbed it with a really nice German fellow named Hagen. I lead the 5.10c and 5.10d pitches. Great route, spectacular views.
I am planning on staying until the end of February.
Hope all is well with all of you in the states.
Best Regards,
CABouldering
[ This Message was edited by: cabouldering on 2003-02-13 11:00 ]
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veilneb
Feb 13, 2003, 7:25 PM
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Helmet Helmet Helmet!
That's probably the best advice I can give. Also, make sure you pay attention when belaying (even tie a knot at the end of the rope). Saw a guy crater from about 15 feet up onto his back cause the belayer ran out of rope and it sliped through the device. Got a nasty cut on the forearm and bruised his coccyx. This happened on one of the climbs on Mota Wall.
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cabouldering
Feb 15, 2003, 12:02 AM
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Thanks. Good advice about the helmet. Falling rock is an issue, especially on the Mota Wall, with multi-pitch routes overhead.
A 60 meter rope is necessary here, but purchasing a 70 meter rope before coming would be worthwhile and save mini-raps on pithes that are over 100 feet where extra anchors were placed for the 60 meter ropes.
This is the only place I know where you can buy a liter bottle of beer while hiking back to your campground after a hard day of climbing!!!
CABouldering
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cabouldering
Feb 21, 2003, 10:07 PM
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The water in El Portrero Chico is feed by aquafirs from the mountains and the water is fresh and clean. No one has ever gotten sick from drinking it at the climbing campgrounds that I know of.
CABouldering :D
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roughster
Feb 24, 2003, 6:51 PM
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Dan its awesome your having a great time down there. I just saw on Rec.climbing your news points, mind posting them here?
Also, you are making me very jealous so knock it off :) Fortunately, I am in the process of developing some multi pitch limestone route in NoCal so I can get my fix that way, though I know they won't compare to the El Portreo :lol:
Anyways, keep the updates coming!
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cabouldering
Feb 26, 2003, 5:07 PM
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Leo Houlding and Tim O´Neil are in El Portrero Chico filming with the BBC. The film is about the recovery of Leo from the climbing accident that he had last year in Patagonia. The stated climbing goal is an ascent of El Sendero Luminoso 5.12+, 15 pitches. Those boys party hard and climb hard.
CABouldering :D
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cabouldering
Feb 26, 2003, 5:21 PM
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I have really had a great time climbing here. Here are a few of the routes that I have done to date.
Celestrial Omnibus 5.12a, 2 pitches, 5.11b, 5.12a, done two times
Mexico In Flames 5.12a
El Grifo 5.11a onsight
Quick-Draw McGraw 5.11a onsight
Treasure of Sierra Madre, 7 pitches, 5.10d, onsighted all
Snott Girlz, 7 pitches 5.10d, onsighted all
Cloud 9, 3 pitches, (new route 3rd ascent) 5.10b, 5.11a, 5.10d
Fierce Invalids, 3 pitches, FA, 5.10b, 5.11b, 5.12a
I have onsighted every 5.10 pitch I have done here to date!
Spectacular Climbing!
CABouldering :D :D
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krillen
Feb 26, 2003, 5:23 PM
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This has been covered MANY MANY MANY times, try searching past topics, in the Regional Discussions, Mexico Routes, and other related Forums.
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cabouldering
Feb 26, 2003, 5:38 PM
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> Got a first ascent with two other guys on a new 3
> pitch route on the Mota Wall. It is called "Fierce
> Invalids" and goes 5.10a/b, 5.11b/c, 5.12a. Jim
> Taylor from West Virginia bolted the line. He and I
> did Celestrial Omnibus, so he invited me to do the
> FA.
>
> Saturday night is Luchia Libre in Hildago. It is
> "pro wrestling" and costs about $2.00 USD. It is
> hilarious and very entertaining.
>
> The exchange rate is 10.8 pesos to the U.S. dollar
> currently.
>
> A Carta Blanca beer is 7 pesos or about .70 USD.
> You can get a liter bottle called a Caguama for about
> $1.60
>
> Best Regards,
> CABouldering :D
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wes_allen
Feb 26, 2003, 5:43 PM
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Hildago style wwf rules!! Nothing like being drunk and unable to speak Spainish trying to understand all the people cursing and yelling at everyone. Very much a required rest day activity.
Wes
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texasclimber
Feb 26, 2003, 6:53 PM
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Man I'm jelous! I went to the Potrero last December and did Yankee Clipper. It was incredible. If you feel like an all day climb with 5.8 to easy 5.10s, do this climb! The view at the top is worth it in itself. You will love it there. We stayed at the Posada and had a great experience. We got there at 3 in the morning and didn't pay till 2 days later, that is how relaxed it is down there. The kitchen kicked ass and they had all sorts of games to play for the night. But watch out...that connect four can be damn adicting (we played till 2 in the morning)!
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elvislegs
Feb 26, 2003, 7:45 PM
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Krillen wrote: In reply to: This has been covered MANY MANY MANY times, try searching past topics, in the Regional Discussions, Mexico Routes, and other related Forums.
Excuse me Krillen but I think you're a little late coming in with your profound, search function, lesson. Most of the posts in the whole thread are a trip report from the original poster. Nice job dork!
P.S. CAbouldering, sounds like you are having the trip of a life-time. Good on ya dude. Nice work on the FA too. Make sure to take lots of pictures. Later. -Sean
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cabouldering
Mar 1, 2003, 9:49 PM
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Leo Houlding and Tim O´Neil completed El Sendero Luminoso (the shining path) yesterday. 2 days for the ascent. The documentary on Leo´s recovery will air on BBC1 for 8 million people.
CABouldering
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cabouldering
Mar 1, 2003, 9:53 PM
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I will leave for the states sometime this next week. I will have spent almost a month here. This has been the greatest climbing vacation ever.
Did Black Cat Bone 5.10d, 9 pitches, Jungle Boy 5.9, 2 pitches and Gettin´Wood 5.10d, 2 pitches to the top of the tall spire in the last two days.
CABouldering
:D :D
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cabouldering
Mar 4, 2003, 6:59 PM
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Hi,
I had a stellar climbing day 1 day ago. I onsighted all climbs I got on. See below (Note the breakthrough 5.12 send).
It´s A Dogs Life 5.10a
Spies Lies and Naked Thighs 5.12a
Red Helmet 5.11c
El Dorado Chewy 5.11c
Fat Boy Slim 5.11b
Yesterday I onsighted a couple of 10´s on the Mini-Super Wall and then onsighted a three pitch climb, Agua De Cocas, 5.10d, 5.10b, 5.10a.
Today is market day. I am taking a rest day.
Best Regards From Mexico,
CABouldering :D :D :D
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roughster
Mar 4, 2003, 8:45 PM
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Grats on the .12 send Dan!
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cabouldering
Mar 11, 2003, 1:56 AM
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I returned to the states on Friday. I finished my
climbing Thursday by doing El Sendero Diablo (The
Devil´s Path) 5.9, 5.11c, 5.11b, 5.10+, 5.11a
I lead the 5.9 and 5.11b pitches. Spectacular climb
and pumpy!
Drove all night on Friday to Hueco Tanks. Got in at 3:00 am. By 8:00 am I was signed up in the 10th annual Rock Rodeo bouldering contest. Had a great day of bouldering, and then in the evening had a climber's party at Rob's campground with pizza, beer, and a large bon-fire.
CABouldering :D
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