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not rating climbs?
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crack_head


Feb 21, 2003, 5:25 PM
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not rating climbs?
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i don't know if anyone lese out there feels the same way but i find it really annoying and stupid that sweet climbers like chris sharma and tommy caldwell have decided not to rate there latest projects. i just dont get it, are they trying to act superior to everyone when they do this? i dont think sharma haas rated one of his climbs in like 2 years?!? and now tommy has decided not to rate his long time project Flex luther. whats the deal? :?


wv5ten


Feb 21, 2003, 5:46 PM
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I think its the other way around, I think it has to do with not worrying about numbers, so sort of an antisuperiority thing(climb just to climb, have fun). I don't really follow your logic on how it seems he thinks he's superior by not rating? Please explain


crack_head


Feb 21, 2003, 5:49 PM
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i was not saying they think they are superior, i was asking if that is what its about


crack_head


Feb 21, 2003, 5:53 PM
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like in the dosage video when sharma says that if he were going to rate the mandala he would probally rate it at like v16, "but im not going to" i just dont get it he says that is v16 but hes not going to rate it, why?


wv5ten


Feb 21, 2003, 5:55 PM
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Im fairly (almost 100%) sure he was joking when he said that.
like i said, i think the reason he doesn't is becasue its more of a climb to just climb and have fun thing.


jerryderl


Feb 21, 2003, 6:02 PM
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Also, who wants to rate a climb then have somebody come and say "nah, it wasn't that hard." I mean if he had rated the Mandala, which I too am sure he was kidding about the v16 stuff, look at all the people who have changed the rating. It went from v13 to v12 to v11 then a hold fell off(v12) then the sit start was added.(v13) If he had rated it v14 he could be accused of making himself look better than he is, not that he isn't the best. But I think you know what I mean. :lol:


curt


Feb 21, 2003, 6:44 PM
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I applaud Sharma and Caldwell for taking the position of not rating climbs. By the way, John Sherman no longer rates any of his boulder problems either--and has not for several years.

There are many reasons to attempt a particular climb. The personal challenge, the aesthetics, the setting, the route's reputation. etc. The least valid reason (in my opinion) is because of some artificial difficulty number assigned to the climb.

If it is a good problem--do it. The rating will not change the character of the climbing experience one iota. The thing is simply as hard as it is.

Curt


flying_dutchman


Feb 21, 2003, 7:34 PM
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mabe they stopped rating their most recent sends cause they have realized the bullshlt that unfortunetly comes up with these grades.

i like grades in a way cause it gives me an idea of whether a climb is within my ability but it really dosen't affect my choices too much.


onelung


Feb 21, 2003, 7:37 PM
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Yea I think it is right online with how IMHO we should climb. Do your DD on a route see what it takes and if you can do it. I dont like it that I am riding .11's now and look for .12 to do. Each route has its own appeal to the eye. Its that appeal that draws me, But I give in to the #'S. Damn me!
Climb what you love, we are not in comp.....we climb.
I got bummed when Hawaii and the Mainland started gripping about wave height,....Mainland (fed dollars ) won. Why try in weak form to label what Nature has blessed us with? Am I nuts....(no answers please)
Ho'oMau,
Bill


xanx


Feb 21, 2003, 8:18 PM
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you can find most of these arguments in your favorite forum on rating!! (this has already been done, basically, but i'll indulge you...)

i think its for all the reasons ppl said. sharma and the others dont care about grades. some would argue that that is b/c they don't really have to prove anything, but i think they don't like hearing groups of rad climbers (like all of us at RC.com) argue about the merit of grading and what a particular problem is ect...

mike


misha


Feb 26, 2003, 2:43 PM
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why the hell do you care if someone wants to rate or not? rating are just a sideshow that people put on to boost their egos? Why do you even want to know their reason for not rating?

does it really matter what the grade is, especially on beautiful problems like the mandala, maybe you should just focus on your own climbing instead of somebody elses numbers.


cliffhippo


Feb 26, 2003, 2:50 PM
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I think it's bad ass that they are not rating.


bandycoot


Feb 26, 2003, 3:09 PM
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What do you care if they don't rate them. Are you going to climb them? Give them props for pushing climbing to higher levels with their astonishing accomplishments rather than bashing them for not getting caught up with numbers. After what happened with Akira, who really wants to be the one to call a climb 5.15?

Josh


misha


Feb 26, 2003, 4:38 PM
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i like how bandycoot said it.


cloudbreak


Feb 26, 2003, 5:04 PM
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......5.FUN......
......VFUN......


moabbeth


Feb 26, 2003, 5:11 PM
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cloudbreak, now THOSE are good ratings!! Props to Sharma and Caldwell for not doing the numbers game, that takes balls.


zee


Feb 26, 2003, 5:52 PM
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I think it is wise for route setters not to rate their climbs. Climbs will always be rated by concensus, and climbers set themselves up for hurt egos if they rate things. On the one hand if they over rate them, rate them harder then they are, they get accused of trying to build up an image, and if they undergrade them they are accused of sand bagging, once again trying to show off. It is a loose loose situation. Better to just set shit and let other people figure out how hard it is.

The other point that I often feel gets missed is that if you climb much harder or much weaker than a route, you cant really give it a fair grade, the distinction between 10a, and 10b to a 13b climber is not clear. It is also not clear to a new climber who cant touch a 5.8.

I think anything they are climbing, are projects for me in about...hmmm....another life time! :wink:


madriver


Feb 26, 2003, 6:31 PM
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One Lung wrote...

In reply to:
Climb what you love, we are not in comp.....we climb.

Comps usually don't rate their climbs. They have point values but no ratings.

MR

Peace 8)


easysteve2


Feb 26, 2003, 6:55 PM
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In reply to:
why the hell do you care if someone wants to rate or not? rating are just a sideshow that people put on to boost their egos? Why do you even want to know their reason for not rating?

does it really matter what the grade is, especially on beautiful problems like the mandala, maybe you should just focus on your own climbing instead of somebody elses numbers.

I'm going to spin this around and say, there's no need to come and talk like this here, who cares for there reasons for caring? Don't be an idiot.


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