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kman
Dec 11, 2001, 3:27 PM
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Lookin for some ice climbin tools. Any one have any feed back on some kick ass picks?
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talons05
Dec 11, 2001, 5:07 PM
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Check out the latest issue of Rock & Ice magazine. They have a mondo ice tool review.
AW
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graniteboy
Dec 12, 2001, 12:47 AM
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I'm pretty happy with the BD prophets. I'm sure there are lotsa flashier things out there, but these tools are good all around workhorses. Most people need more technique, not fancier tools anyways. Most people swing their tools about as efficiently/cleanly as this little man on the screen. So work on your technique.
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atg200
Dec 12, 2001, 12:59 AM
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I'm a big fan of the old school black prophets with the single bend at the bottom. Some people also hate them, so ymmv.
The important thing is to find a tool that feels good in your hand. My hands are pretty small, so I have a rough time with thick-handled tools. Try to climb with as many different tools as you can before you commit to buying a pair-ice festivals are a great way to demo lots of models.
Don't forget about leashes-when you start leading they are every bit as critical as the tool itself. Most stock leashes are crap-I just upgraded to the BD Andriods and I oculdn't be happier with them.
andrew
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kman
Dec 12, 2001, 9:08 AM
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thanks Talon...I have that issue and it didn't really narrow it down for me. Hmmm...decisions decisions.
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andy_lemon
Dec 12, 2001, 9:26 PM
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The new Trango Ice tools out this year! They are pink...
If your up for a cheap fix, try the Bulldogs by... ummm I don't know who they are by, maybe ABC. Not sure.
Charlet Moser stuff is excellent, but you will pay dearly for it!
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jbur
Dec 12, 2001, 10:29 PM
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I also have some of the old black prophets. They are capable of getting up harder ice than I am willing to climb. As was said above, the most important thing is to match your hand to the grip. If the grip is to big you'll hate it when you start getting pumped. I think the BD cobra pick is one of the best around. Other than that, get what feels the most comfy.
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graniteboy
Dec 16, 2001, 6:10 AM
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Here's an interesting story abt getting replacement picks: I got a pair of the old chouinard x-tools abt 15 yrs ago(before x-15s existed). Trying to get BD to send me replacement picks in 1994 was frikkin MURDER. They essentially laughed at me and told me to buy new tools. I ordered some from them, as they were being "benificent" and had their machinist make some up. I ordered them in november, and they kept screwing me around. Thay finally sent them in July the next year, which (coupled with the death of a guy I knew who died when a BD biner broke) has led me to not use their gear much. But the prophets ARE good tools. So i use them.
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jeffe
Dec 17, 2001, 3:33 PM
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While on the tool subject, anybody see the short Omega Pacific Bulldog? I was thinking of getting one for a third tool, but haven't seen any in shops.
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darkside
Dec 18, 2001, 2:51 AM
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Not sure what you mean by short but I know 2 or 3 people with the regular Bulldogs. I can't really offer any feedback on them. You can buy them cheap in Canada eh! Probably $60-80usd.
For first tools, I use CM Quarks and they are awesome for vertical waterfall ice. Good balance with the weight in the head yet light elsewhere. Clearance is one of the best on the market for sculptured ice. I'm happy I chose them over tools less than half the price. Try as many for yourself as you can though.
[ This Message was edited by: darkside on 2001-12-17 19:13 ]
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jeffe
Dec 18, 2001, 5:38 PM
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By short I meant 40cm to use as a third tool. A friend had me take a TR lap with a 40cm X-15 and could actually climb with it. Wanted to get one but havent' been able to find one, because Black Diamond discontinued it. Don't really car for the other short third tools I see. I know it's just for a pinch, but trying to stretch the cash.
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kman
Jan 4, 2002, 8:46 AM
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Ended up getting the CM quarks. Felt better in my hands than the others. Gotta wait 2 weeks before I get to use them CANT WAIT
Thanks for the input
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leopard
Jan 4, 2002, 11:27 AM
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I like THE NORTH FACE !
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darkside
Jan 4, 2002, 2:53 PM
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I don't think you'll regret them kman. They are sweet tools and I even used one with my mountain axe last week for some alpine. It plunged OK in soft snow and worked great in low dagger position. Not sure for self arrest though, I managed not to fall.
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climber1
Feb 1, 2002, 5:33 AM
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I have a pair of BD X-15s. don't have any complaints. oh, and for crampons I wear Charlet Moser.
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kman
Feb 1, 2002, 7:01 AM
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I have the DMM terminators. They fit great over my Scarpa Freney boots. Both of which have an asymetical shape.
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climber1
Feb 6, 2002, 8:42 PM
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have a pair of 50cm X15's. I really like them, but wish they were a tad shorter.
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redox
Mar 30, 2002, 8:48 AM
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I got a pair of HB Tornados. Haven't been able to try them out yet (i have no screws), but they are fun to play with.
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jtcronk
Mar 31, 2002, 4:32 PM
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I know this post is old, but I just saw it. I'm guessing you've picked up tools already, but if not, I'd highly recommend BD's Rage's. They are great for overhanging routes. Really makes hooking cauliflowers easier, etc. Try 'em, you'll like 'em!
Jason
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beyond_gravity
Mar 31, 2002, 5:10 PM
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If you want to go a littel cheaper, try the DMM tools. I recently upgraded to charlet moser that do perform better, but I was pretty happy with the DMM tools, i pretty much just got the charlets because they were a little lighter and were better for hooking and dry tooling. i have grivel rambo crampons and they are great with my scapa vega's.
ice on,
jeremy
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