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xanx


Mar 1, 2003, 7:47 PM
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carry over to climbing?
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i was just wondering how much the following things will help my climbing (bouldering) ability. please rank them from best (1) to worst i.e. A)1 B)3 C)5 D)2 E)4

A) normal and/or 3 part pushups (i used to do these but started to get a sharp pain in my shoulder so i stopped)
B) normal and/or 3 part situps
C) locking off on my hangboard and then slowly raising and lowering my legs
D)"typewriter" - move quickly back and forth while hanging from a hangboard
E) whatever else u do besides weigt lifting!

basically, the situps and leg raises are aimed at working on the abs and overall body tension; i would think the leg raises would be better because it is body tension (not just ab muscles) that is important, escpecially for slopers and steep stuff. but i wonder if u improve fast enough with leg raises for it to merit the effort (i noticed an improvemetn in 2 week with my lock off pullups but nothing for all the a work in like 2 weeks) - perhaps just climbing on slopers/ steeps more would result in a faster increase?

i found no significant increase in strength due to all the pushups; IMO u do relatively little pushing in climbing, save for the occasional palm-down hold. but i could b wrong.

i also don't see the point in the typewriters, but i only did them a few times so i have no idea.

also if there is any other non-climbign exercise (besides weight lifting!) that u find helps a lot rather quickley, tell me.

thanks a lot!


ronin7s


Mar 2, 2003, 8:40 AM
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whatsup

I have found that most of that stuff helps a lot as long as you do it on a regular basis, other wise when you stop, when you start again you will have to start from scratch.


moeman


Mar 2, 2003, 9:47 AM
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Do pullups on the hangboard. But the best way to get stong fast is to build a decent woodie in your garage,basement, backyard, etc.


styndall


Mar 2, 2003, 10:22 AM
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The pushups won't make you a better climber, but they are crucial. You need to build the muscles that oppose your climbing muscles (ie your chest and your triceps) to keep from being unbalanced and injury-prone.

That said, for climbing, I'd trust the lock-offs (at varying angles) with leg raises on various hold types (though never crimp - you'll just get injured, and slopers build that muscle anyway). You'll get lock-off, contact, and core strength this way.


xanx


Mar 2, 2003, 10:37 AM
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yeah i used to do lockoff pullups on the big 3 finger pockets (jugs), the slopers, and the small crimp edges, but with the crimps it was more a matter of how long i could stand the pain before jumping down. right now i thing anything i do on the hangboard will be on the slopers (they are really good slopers, pusher speedboard) - hanging from the pinches is impossible, the crimps will only get me injured (and my crimp strength is fine anyway), and the big pockets are basically jugs. i was thinking about also using the big 2 finger pockets as well as the slopers (mono and shallow 2 finger = popped tendon from all i have heard).

anyway thanks a lot everyone, keep them coming!


lox


Mar 2, 2003, 11:27 AM
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Do a thousand situps a day.


vram1974


Mar 2, 2003, 11:40 AM
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I think that all these things can be good in small doses... that having been said, I know lots of guys who train hard but it doesn't translate into pure power on the wall. And me, I never do training other than just climbing, and I find my power is getting better and better... because I climb a lot.

Climbing better is like anything else... running, for instance. I'm sure there are lots of diets and activities that help marathon running, but the bottom line is that the best marathon runner is the guy who logs the most miles on the road. And the best climbers tend to be the guys who just crank... all-the-time. Or ice hockey, for instance. Gretzky is regarded as the best player of all time, and there's an immense natural ability, but the fact is that as a kid, he played hockey for hours and hours every single day. He didn't train with weights, or do sit-ups, or anything. He just played.

Now, AFAIK, certain on-the-wall training can be IMMENSELY helpful.


rockman517


Mar 2, 2003, 7:18 PM
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Ehy, yeh, yeh, yeh.......climb rocks every day......Training is boring.......word


xanx


Mar 5, 2003, 12:14 PM
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not everyone is blessed with a killer woodie like u... some of us only have a hangboard. if i could i would probably be at the gym like every day or so.

oh and the whole point is i am not allowed to climb until March 20 b/c of my finger. but i can train until then, so i wanna know what to do short of bouldering to get strong.


Partner phaedrus


Mar 5, 2003, 12:29 PM
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In addition to the above, I also suggest yoga and T'ai Chi for balance, flexibility, concentration, etc. I've had my team doing them for a while now, and it has made a difference in many of the kids. If you don't have the cash for the classes, there are a number of pretty decent how-to videos out there for not much money (my team is using videos until we get things set up with an instructor); not the same as learning in a class, but you are at least will get the basic idea. I want to pick up Aikido for the kids as well, but have had a harder time finding the videos for that.

Todd


rockinitinark


Mar 5, 2003, 12:32 PM
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I hang on every door jam I see. Hold my hands wide and pull up and hold it. and then i go home and just play around on the hang board :D but nothing beats the real stuff eh?


xanx


Mar 5, 2003, 1:23 PM
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Aikido kicks butt, i did it for about 5 years but eventually got a bit disillusioned because of my sensei's blind arrogance. ki is fun :D one demonstration we did that is really cool is u get 2 ppl really reall strong (like 6', big, muscular), they stand on either side of u, then u make ur body stiff and they pick u up. no big deal. then you concentrate your ki into the gound, and even if they get low and use their hips and legs and strain really hard they still can't lift u. defies physics :D


thenick


Mar 6, 2003, 7:37 AM
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ha ha rocco has a killer woodie

TheNick


funktimonious


Mar 6, 2003, 5:31 PM
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Yeah, i heard someone mention that weight thing (where they can't pick you up)...then someone said that it's because the guys lifting you up were in on the gag (and i guess you weren't), which makes more sense than you being able to change your mass. :idea:


xanx


Mar 6, 2003, 5:38 PM
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nah dude this was real... no gag. i've done it on the other end too (picking ppl up). watch any video of Ueshiba Morihei and u'll c what i mean.


funktimonious


Mar 6, 2003, 5:59 PM
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I'd keep arguing with you, but you're the one with the five years of Akido = my ass on a platter.


xanx


Mar 6, 2003, 6:16 PM
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8)

oddly enough it didn't censor it when u said "ass"... i though it did, guess not


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