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calimouth
Mar 3, 2003, 10:44 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 62
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In my opinion it doesn't matter all that much, given that the bolt-side biner is facing away from the direction of climbing. The other biner is more a matter of personal preference as to how you like to clip. This is because of the way the rope-side biner acts with a rope clipped in. It rotates so that the biner is more or less perpendicular to the rock. Now, if the biner stayed flat against the rock, the same side argument would be valid. But, since the biner moves, it really doesn't matter. Be wary of the bolt-side biner though.
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calimouth
Mar 3, 2003, 10:46 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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sorry, that was supposed to be a reply, not a new topic.
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bigdan
Mar 4, 2003, 5:37 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2002
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of course it matters which way the rope-side biner faces! at least, in some circumstances, and a hell of a lot more than the bolt-side biner matters!
look, the bolt-side biner can't come off by itself. i'm sure there's some ridiculously rare or unfathomable way that could happen, but generally speaking, it won't.
whether the rope-side biner stays flat or perpindicular is irrelevant. what's important is where the rope is in relation to the biner during a fall. if the gate faces away from the direction of the rope, the rope can't affect it. BUT, if the rope comes down OVER the gate (if the gate faces the direction of the rope), the rope can pass through the gate, unclipping itself.
you're right - once the fall is over the rope IS perpindicular to the biner, which IS perpindicular to the rock. but that doesn't matter because at that point the fall is over. what's important is where things are in relation to each other DURING A FALL.
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