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cobra652004
Mar 7, 2003, 3:37 PM
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Registered: Jan 30, 2003
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Hi,
I live in the East Bay...Have yet to climb anywhere near SF, but want to over my break (14-22 this month). Anyone have some suggestions on where to go for me?? I'm thinking about Diablo, but have heard some not-so-hot stories about the quality of the rock and also the amount of trash there. Have a full lead rack, but limited experience using it, so I'll be seconding most trad climbs, but have no problems with that.
Also, I'll probably be looking for some partners for a few day trips to wherever, so please hit me back if you want to climb (20, male... if that matters to you).
Thanks!
Brian
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watersprite
Mar 7, 2003, 5:02 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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Mt. Diablo is whack - I was there a couple of weeks ago. A lot of the bolts are gone - the routes are deteriorated. THere is one nice one - on the third tier - It's called Amazing Face. Not sure if the anchors are still up there. It was disappointing, but if you want to check it out, there might be some good climbs on the Butt.
go to the South entrance to the park and park about a mile up the road from the entrance. Then you have to walk back up the road about .5 mile, and the rocks are on the left.
I like Mt. St. Helena - off 29 at the far end of Napa County - it's in R. L. Stevenson Park. Quite a drive, but there are some great climbs - The Bear is a multi-pitch climb. it's a long hike in, so take hiking boots.
Follow the fire trail to get to the Bubble and the Far Side (hope they cleaned up the trail to the far side - it was inaccessible last month). To get to the Quarry, when you get to the fire road, look for the plastic flags marking the way up straight across the road from the trail - climb up the hill, and the Quarry should be on the other side.
To get to the Bear, follow the fire trail to The Bubble (you can't miss it- there is a small cliff and one or two TR routes). Go to the right past the bubble, and then up a very rocky trail to the left to get up to the Bear (you'll hear and see climbers up there, and you can see the cliff from the trail, that's where you go straight up the hill to get to the base of the Bear.
I like Castle Rock park off Skyline in Saratoga. It's been dry for acouple of days, and there should be a lot of climbers there this weekend and next.
and there is always the Pinnacles, Bishop, Joshua Tree. and the big one, Yosemite.
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sftony
Mar 8, 2003, 1:29 AM
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Registered: Mar 5, 2003
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IMO, Mt Diablo can be hit or miss. The rock is sandstone, and at a lot of climbing spots there are rope marks in the rock, which is not a good sign. There are good places there, however. As far as trash - I have found the area to be clean with friendly staff and patrons.
If you want something local, I suggest Mt. Tamalpais just over the bridge. If you don't mind driving a bit, the south bay has great spots, as watersprite suggested. There is also a few things in the city as well as Berkeley if you want something REALLY close. Good luck!
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cobra652004
Mar 11, 2003, 4:12 AM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Jan 30, 2003
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Before this gets TOO burried here, anyone else have suggestions or want to possibly climb some time between the 15th and 22nd?
Thanks
Brian
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chris_nor_cal
Mar 11, 2003, 8:04 AM
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Registered: Feb 5, 2003
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diablos cool man, hit me up if you wanna go up there
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tradclmbr
Mar 13, 2003, 7:41 AM
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Registered: Sep 4, 2002
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I dont know about Diablo being 'wack'.......maybe im too old to know what wack means, but there is fun to be had there (amazing face, old bolt route.........and, on TR there is an amazing finger crack climb on the middle tier thats a blast to run laps on). With that said, weather is warm and plenty of Sierra destinations of granite are available......Cali sandstoneis less than inspiring.
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