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willstrickland
Mar 10, 2003, 11:22 AM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2002
Posts: 51
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I climbed this thing last summer while in GA visiting the folks. After reading through a few route descriptions lately (Dixie Cragger's, on this site, on another TR on the web), I have a question....
All the route descriptions say for the 3rd pitch you climb an Orange corner on the right. I assume this means right of the belay, which is itself directly at the base of a dihedral. So is this another dihedral (I do remember chalk and orange rock about 10ft right) or do they mean climb the right face of the dihedral at the belay?
I climbed straight off the belay, it was a little run-out with a poor micro about 8 feet off the belay and then I think I got something in about 20 ft out. The moves involved a hard lieback move right above the micro-nut (they felt 5.10 ish, but would probably be 8 or 9 if you're over 6ft tall). Then a couple of thin crack moves in the dihedral and finishing on the vertical left wall of the dihedral with good holds.
So, did I climb a variation to the original line? I had been in Yos for about 6 weeks, and Index for a week that summer, then took a month off and climbed it while visiting my folks. I was leading solid .10d/.11a trad at the time and this thing (the 3rd pitch) felt harder than 5.8
Anyone know?
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tradpuppy
Mar 10, 2003, 12:07 PM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Jan 15, 2002
Posts: 720
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Actually, that right facing dihedral with the thin crack is the right way, as far as I know, so I'm pretty sure you did it correctly, off the good sized ledge. Yes, it is a little small/thin on gear, as I recall. It's been nearly 10 years, I didn't lead that, but I remember small nuts...including mine :lol:
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