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top anchors - what's best?
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jds100


Dec 15, 2001, 7:26 AM
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top anchors - what's best?
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I use screwgate quicklinks (like chain link, with a screwgate), in a big size (I think I usually get 5/8" or 3/4"), and I do get the stainless steel ones, which are a little more expensive, but worth it. I put a quicklink on the hanger, then chain of whatever appropriate length (again, big and burly, and stainless), and then another quicklink on the end. I tighten the screwgates on both quicklinks pretty tight, to discourage easy theft.

I also usually carry four quicklinks with me, in case I come across anchor hangers with no links for rapping. Four quicklinks will ensure that the rope doesn't jam up when I rap and pull it. One link will typically lay flat against the rock, and pinch the rope, making it hard to pull down.

I have seen some outstanding anchors that look like burly freight-handling hardware, with a spring-loaded gate across the opening of the hook. I know these are made specifically for climbing anchors, so I trust them explicitly. The drawback could be that they are more visually obvious to non-climbing users of the area. And, they are significantly more expensive.

[ This Message was edited by: jds100 on 2001-12-15 07:27 ]


talons05


Dec 15, 2001, 7:33 AM
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Ditto the stainless quicklinks. You can get them from most climbing shops/catalogues. Those gated anchors that Jeff is talking about are made by Fixe, a brand mentioned earlier. They are VERY expensive, relatively, and they do stick out a bit too much, but they are quick and very safe.

AW


talons05


Dec 15, 2001, 12:05 PM
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I don't know, dude, I usually try and build a little more redundancy into my anchors...

AW


froggy


Dec 15, 2001, 1:23 PM
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Don't top rope through the shuts at the top regardless -
Either use 2 Quickdraws or a Long Sling equalized with 3 ovals to run the rope through..
Otherwise the grit in your rope will wear through anything in 1-season. Have you been to Owen's ?????????

Also if you are going to rap off of something try to buy webbing that matches your surroundings....
The quick link is a great thing to have just in case tho!


Partner jules


Dec 15, 2001, 7:56 PM
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Oozing-
Do you spend lots of time coming up with these cool ways to manipulate your name? It's the greatest, by the way.
I especially like the Oozama "Bin Leadin" Pustule. It paints quite the vivid picture in my mind.

[ This Message was edited by: juliana on 2001-12-15 19:59 ]


ryanguy


Jan 5, 2002, 12:03 PM
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Nice humor on the replies.
My advice is use Fixe ring anchors. They are better than quick link because you attach the biners directly to the rings. They are also more simple, look better on the rock, and are relatively inexpensive ($5 Canadian up here in Ceenada). You have to take into account the beginner factor when installing anchors. Beginners could attach biners direclty to quick links for TRing which is not safe and they may use chains as a TR set up. The rings are beefy and smooth for easy rope retrieval. Man, I'm sounding like a Fixe rep, but thats my opinion.


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