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mountainrat
Dec 15, 2001, 5:44 PM
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How many pull-ups? I try to do them a few times a day at work. Do you do 'em every day? Every other?
-Rat
[ This Message was edited by: mountainrat on 2001-12-28 20:27 ]
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compclimber
Dec 15, 2001, 6:00 PM
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How many pullups can you do now?
If you can do more than three you should try adding weight to them. Take a harness, sling a 15 pound dumbell around the top, attach it to your harness and pull like crazy, if you can still do three then you need to add more weight. Try doing four sets of three with two minutes rest inbetween sets.
Working lock-off strength as well will really help your climbing, being able to hold a hard lock-off while on a route makes it easy to onsite things because you are using stregth and not doing dynamic movement to get past a section. Although on a redpoint it is easier to dyno, but for onsite climbing it is a skill everyone should have.
Finger strength, This is going to require being in a gym with a dedicated weight section (the local rock gym probably wont have enough weights for you to use) Take a weight bar, add 1/2 of your body weight to it. You should have your knees sligtly bent, your waist centered and your elbows sligtly bent as well. Hold the bar with both hands and hold it as if you were going to do a bicep curl, now lower the bar down from the palm of your hands to the last knuckle of your fingers (your hand will look like it is in the "open hand" method of gripping a hold) now curl that weigt back up to your palms and repeat 2 more times. If you can do more than 3 reps you need to add weight, working up to your whole body weight...then beyond it. Do 3 reps and take at least 2 minutes rest inbetween sets to let your tendons have a break, do between 4 and 6 sets of them and you are on the fast track to pulling crimps with Dave Graham
I have a bunch more, but I'll wait to see if other people reply with them.
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talons05
Dec 15, 2001, 6:27 PM
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Try varying your pullups as well. When working pullup strength without weights (which you should also do), try doing them with one arm higher than the other or only using two or three fingers.
AW
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vicum
Dec 16, 2001, 3:19 AM
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I was doing pullups with a freind the other day and we were discussing doing pullups with one arm higher, or at different angles. But is seemed that this would be a good way to get hurt while training. I also realize that the rock isn't going to offer symmetric holds very often. Is this a valid concern or should we not worry about it? Thanks~Arnold
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mountainrat
Dec 16, 2001, 3:50 AM
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Thanks a million to all who responded so far- I need & appreciate all the tips I can get. Something I have been trying on my own is carrying rocks in my finger tips on my way to the crags- just carrying them until I melt and they fall on the ground. The burn is there, so it must be doing something beneficial... give it a try the next time you're hiking somewhere.
-Rat
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crux_clipper
Dec 19, 2001, 6:30 AM
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a good way to add weight is fill plastic shopping bags with sand. Four of them and attach them to the gear loops of your harness. Gradually increase the ammount of sand.
Just a thought
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ratstar
Dec 20, 2001, 12:01 AM
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Boulder like a mad-man. It'll help your strength. And it targets all the right muscles.
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graniteboy
Dec 20, 2001, 2:07 AM
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I Have a CWAZY, CWAZY idear: How about going Climbing in order to train ??
Weights are helpful, but climbing is the main thing.
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clipngo
Dec 20, 2001, 4:01 AM
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Climbing is the most important thing, cross training (other then the pull muscles) is not real effective. And if you are like me, it adds unwanted weight. It is almost impossible for me to lift without bulking up, I HAVE to train specifically for climbing.
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camhead
Dec 20, 2001, 4:38 AM
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The best training for climbing is to climb. However, I'd be willing to bet that we all do our fair share of door-frame pull-ups, so here is an interesting routine I do (sorry, can't remember where I found out about it.):
Do two pull-ups, then hang for seven seconds in the highest position.
Do two more pull-ups, then hang for seven seconds with your arms bent at a 90º angle.
Two more pull-ups, then hang for seven seconds with your arms bent at about 135º.
Repeat if you dare. It builds endurance, something that I'll bet most of us need more of.
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