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lemur
Mar 8, 2003, 2:35 PM
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My girlfriend is just starting to climb... I'm an avid indoor climber (soon to be outdoor once the weather is better) and route-setter. But, I'm 6'3", rather athletic, and climbing has always come easy..
My girlfriend is athletic, but 5'4", and doesn't have quite the adrenaline-rush attitude that I have always had. I've tried to find better indoor routes for her, or set some myself, but I was wondering in you might have any suggestions as to things which helped you start learning?
There are barely any female climbers at our gym, or if they are they are far beyond the starting level. I want to be as supportive as possible, so if you have any suggestions (either starting a lifting program along with climbing...etc..) as to things which made your climbing life easier, I'd appreciate the help.
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eowyn1025
Mar 8, 2003, 7:54 PM
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lifting helped me...that and a lot of patience and encouragement on the part of my guy counterparts! :)
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josephine
Mar 9, 2003, 4:22 AM
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Ohhh,yes i know the feeling,i was in the same position she is.
Try to support her as much as you can.She needs support to keep trying.
Women haven't the muscles and the strenght men have so in the gym,women[beginners] do more easier routes than men.She has to use more her legs than her hands,that's the keyword for women climbers "the legs".
I did pull ups and weight lifting to strength my hand muscles and traverses.Tell her before she begins to climb to do warm up,some traverses on the bottom of the wall,there she can examine the moves[learn techniques that can help her climb] and she can strenght her hands.I did that and my hands are strong,i climb more difficult routes than i used to.
I personally do many traverses because there i can examine my techniques.
She needs time,patience and a lot of encouragement.
Ohh,and she needs to have a strong will.To say i will do it.If she doesn't believe that she will succeed then she never will.
At first i didn't believe that i can climb,but my instructor helped to believe in me that i will try and i will succeed.
Good luck! :wink:
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granite_grrl
Mar 12, 2003, 6:47 AM
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I know that if I had started climbing in a gym I would never have gotten hooked. Outside is good, the grades arn't as obvious, it's harder to care about them. Also in my area we don't really have overhanging routes outdoors, I didn't have to be as concerned about upper body strength.
Another thing to do is maybe have her climb with some other women. It was great the first time I had a female clibing partner (only last fall, almost two years after I had started up). It was great not havnign someone say "just pull yourself up". If it was a tricky section (over hang or no) we could work it the same kind of way (ie- we didn't just yank ourselves up it).
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ecocliffchick
Mar 12, 2003, 7:22 AM
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Be sure not to mention grades or ratings of routes for the first few times out. If she focuses on just enjoying the problem-solving and gets awesome amounts of praise for getting to the top (regardless of whether it's a 5.2 or a 5.12) she'll build enthusiasm. Don't talk down to her if you are the more experienced climber - instead discuss plans for the outdoor season where she'll get to test her skills on some real rock. Try to let her get involved in the decision-making so you aren't always telling her what to do (even if it is good advice).
Also, sending her some flowers after she sends a challenging route is a nice way to tell her you appreciate all the effort she's putting into trying your interests.
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lemur
Mar 12, 2003, 12:30 PM
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Thanks for the help!
She's done wonderfully on the shorter walls, and is slowly getting more comfortable on the highest walls. Hopefully, once the weather gets nicer we'll be able to head outside.
I'm going to see if I can set a nice easy traverse across the wall to help her build her hand strength and practice her footing..
Good idea on the flowers! *smile*
- Lemur
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c_kryll
Mar 13, 2003, 7:28 AM
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Since she is a beginning climber I would go over with her all the different hand and foot techniques and the terms that go with them. Allowing her to have a greater "Climbing Vocabulary", so to speak, that she can utilize in her own fashion. It'll help her when your trying to yell 'Beta' and she can take "Flag left foot, crimp right hand up, step-through and side pull the next hold" and actually know what you mean by all that. Women in general have better foot work and technique, we men climb too much with our arms and just "pull through" moves, so if you can get her to learn those different techniques you'll vastly improve her climbing level and her enjoyment of it.
Chris
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ecocliffchick
Mar 13, 2003, 10:40 AM
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I would give the exact opposite advice as c_kryll. Until she asks what other climbers are talking about, don't overwhelm her with the lingo. And don't give advice on a better way to do something unless she specifically asks for it. Let her get used to the idea of climbing and get in control of her fears of heights and ropes and harnesses before trying to work on technique.
As was mentioned earlier, women won't just try to pull there way through things and will likely develop alot of technique on their own. When she asks for help, give it in small digestible doses.
The best way to pick up on climbing lingo is to get her a subscription to a climbing magazine. Let her read up on the sport on her own and develop her own opinions and ideas so the conversation won't be one-sided. Noone wants their boyfriend to always be the instructor (despite what you guys may think).
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indigo_nite
Mar 13, 2003, 11:47 AM
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a friend has had some success in this area. this is what I observed:
his plan was to introduce his girlfriend (now wife) to climbing b/c it was a big part of his life and then let her decide how far she'd want to go.
he still did weekend trips now and then; sometimes together and sometimes not. since they married, he usually only does day trips w/o her though.
he did climbs that she'd be able to do. she was pretty persistent and liked it enough to suggest that she'd want to lead eventually.
he started by having her clean... he'd gradually give explanation on setting pro; constructing anchors. mostly he focused on having a very encouraging attitude.
sheclimbs.org is a good place to hook up with female climbers.
the overriding thing seemed that for him, climbing was a vehicle for them to share a common interest/time. but I don't think that climbing ever became more important than having a relationship.
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on_sight_man
Mar 13, 2003, 8:49 PM
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My advice is to not be too devoted to the idea of her being a climber,
or anything else for that matter. Help her where you can and where
she wants/needs it, but don't hold the idea that she will be a partner for
you as being important. I have made that mistake and all it does is
put unnecessary pressure on the relationship, on her, and on yourself
(since you WILL get blamed for some stuff)
You have your thing, and she has hers. They don't always have to
intersect...
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aimeerose
Apr 3, 2003, 8:54 AM
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Weight training is great. It will help her avoid injury too if done right. Also, just because the women in the gym are beyond the beginner level it doesn't mean they won't help your girlfriend out. I've been climbing forever and I'll always help out another climber no matter how easy they're climbing. If you know the strong gals maybe you could introduce your girlfriend to them. If she asks them for beta on a specific problem (even if it's easy) I'm sure those gals can give her good suggestions. I've helped a lot of girls out with technique, especially on overhangs.
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adkaren
Apr 5, 2003, 8:48 PM
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Oh! This is so fantastic!
Your girlfriend is in the same position I was in several years ago (except that she's got an inch on me! (I'm 5'3")). If you start on easier routes, going to easy, longer routes, so she gets her rope skills down, she'll feel much more comfortable on rope when she goes for those harder moves. Oh, and please please oh please...don't underestimate her. We women have greater angulation in our hips, greater extension and rotation in our shoulders, and lower centers of gravity (usually). If your girlfriend is athletic, her natural finesse will have her climbing 5.10 in no time. Let her know that she's not alone!
Happy campusing,
adkaren
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