|
onemistakebigpancake
Mar 11, 2003, 7:35 PM
Post #1 of 13
(2790 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 162
|
Topic: Learning to Lead Trad
I was so looking forward to some dry weather so, that I can put my new gear to work. BUT, having read so many notices of bad news lately, I just don't know anymore. I know a helmet is a MUST!... I climb with a safety freak and so, it's not really an issue of finding someone knowledgeable... am I the only one being a bit "spooked"?
Edit: poor typing on Topic Line :oops:
|
|
|
|
|
piton
Mar 11, 2003, 7:44 PM
Post #2 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034
|
this is your life, it's good to be cautious
|
|
|
|
|
calpolyclimber
Mar 11, 2003, 7:49 PM
Post #3 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 360
|
It is a little sketchy climbing on your own placememts for the first time. I assume you have followed a good nimber of routes, and are very familiar with placing protection? Also, its a good idea to do your first one on a route you have either top roped alot, or followed a few times. The reason I say this is that your first few trad climbs your mind will not be on the climbing, but on the placements. This causes you to miss holds, and get yourself into awkward positions. Just take your time, and climb something that has big jugs to hold onto, because it will take you a little time to get pieces in at first and you don't want to pop off while placing, thats where the big falls happen. On that note, you should always trust your gear and placements to the fullest. Why? Because if you climb past a piece, it means you already sat there looking at it and said "this will hold me if I fall" in your head. Then you move past it, and don't worry about it (you may want to check it to be sure that rope drag has not changed it). The whole idea is to not move on until you are confident in a placement, that way you can use your logic to control your fear. That is my take on trad climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
onemistakebigpancake
Mar 11, 2003, 7:55 PM
Post #4 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 162
|
I've started leading this past fall, easy climbs that I could solo (but won't). I was hoping/thinking I'd do harder climbs, but just the thought of decking gives me food for thought.
|
|
|
|
|
adirondakclimber
Mar 11, 2003, 7:59 PM
Post #5 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 23
|
lead climbing your first trad route is scary!!! but alot of fun too. i did my first lead on a measly 5.6 and was scared to death. Its only becuase your new at it, like when you looked at your first climb, i bet you can do it w/o a slight thought now.
just over protect and make sure you put in many nuts, they are easy to place and you can tell if they are good or not just by looking at them.
Leading is a blast, so becareful and have fun
|
|
|
|
|
rodeomountain
Mar 11, 2003, 8:00 PM
Post #6 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 190
|
I lead my first trad route saturday and fell on the only peice of gear I had in the wall. I about crapped on myself but after it held I was cool through the rest of the route because all my placements looked bomber and I new they would probably hold a fall.
In reply to: if you climb past a piece, it means you already sat there looking at it and said "this will hold me if I fall" in your head. Then you move past it, and don't worry about it
I agree, worrying about falling will wear you out faster than the climbing, so just move on like you are only 2 feet off the ground. I only climbed sport up 'til this past weekend and never even took a fall on a bolt, so I was pretty nervous about falling on gear, but after it happens you'll be cool.
|
|
|
|
|
getsomeethics
Mar 13, 2003, 6:04 PM
Post #7 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2002
Posts: 313
|
i learned to trad climb at mt arapiles in australia in '96. i showed up with ten nuts and a 50m rope. all the partners i found had less gear then me. at araps though, 2.5 sets of nuts is all you need along with some RP's.
anyway, before i actually went out with someone i spent 2 days at the bottom of the walls, placing nuts, putting a sling on them and jumping on them as hard as i could. would not even come close to simulating the forces generated in a fall i know, but when they popped i would still go tumbling into the dirt, illustrating well the need for bomber gear. after a few tumbles and some bruises and cuts i started to get the hang of it, and stopped ending up on my ass. practice, practice and more practice. place shit gear and fall, and yer climbing as well as living days are over.
invest in a helmet. dont die cos yer cheap or worried about what others would think. if it was not fer my helmet wearing habit, i would be dead already. it saved me from an early demise in 2000.
|
|
|
|
|
1269topper
Mar 13, 2003, 6:33 PM
Post #8 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2003
Posts: 168
|
I started trad climbing last season and I found the best palce to
practice was when I was boldering. I would find a nice crack and place gear and build anchors. TO really maximize this i would try to find somewere with several cracks and when i would build a anchor or sew up the little crack I would move to the next and leave the first set of pieces in it to make me figure out what I can do instead of having a full rack.
Do yourself right start with really easy routes 5.4ish something you would almost solo, its amazing what some high exposure can do the baddist top roper or sport climber.
Peace & climb safe
|
|
|
|
|
alpinist
Mar 14, 2003, 1:08 AM
Post #9 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2003
Posts: 125
|
For really good pratice placing gear and clipping I'd sat do a mock lead on top rope. In other words, set up to top rope a climb, tie into a trailing rope, grabe your gear and while your belayer has you from the top rope place gear and clip your trail rope as you go.
This gives you the pratice of leading without the risk of actually falling on your gear. You also get to analyze your placements when you lower down and clean.
The only other method I can think of is to aid climb. Doing this gives you a lot a pratice placing gear. You actually weight each piece of gear and watch how it moves or doesn't move in the crack.
Good Luck and have fun!
|
|
|
|
|
drector
Mar 14, 2003, 1:16 AM
Post #10 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 1037
|
There will always be bad news in the climbing community. Sometimes it all happens at the same time and sometimes it is spread out through the year more. I don't think it is an epidemic.
If you are too spooked to trust your gear then don't do it. A little fear keeps you on your toes but too much can be a distraction that can cause mistakes.
In answer to your question, I have no idea if anyone else is spooked. I am not.
Dave
|
|
|
|
|
joerockclimbs
Mar 17, 2003, 9:48 PM
Post #11 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2002
Posts: 45
|
Hey....I was reading this and had flash backs to last year. I just started learing to lead up in the Gunks. My partner and I headed to Gelsa and agreed that I would lead the first pitch and he would continue the rest. Well we never got through the first pitch. I froze up. Froze up so bad that I did not know where I was and what I was looking at. Luckily some other climbers were walking by and took over the belay and my partner, being experienced, came and got me. It really messed with my head. I took about a week to recover but wanted to lead again real quick. I went to a smaller place, Allamuchy located in NJ, and lead a climb that I knew like the back of my hand. It really helped my head to do something like that. To be able to place gear and climb again was great. An experience I won't soon forget but learned a great deal from. I was assured by many that things like that happen to people and that I was not alone. Just don't get discouraged.
|
|
|
|
|
notyetabigwaller
Mar 17, 2003, 10:08 PM
Post #12 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 27
|
Sew it up Brotha!
|
|
|
|
|
mreardon
Mar 17, 2003, 10:45 PM
Post #13 of 13
(2789 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
|
Remember, the General Surgeon has proven that researchers cause cancer in rats. Stop reading the acts of stupidity and give yourself a little more credit that you're safer than most. Go do an aid route. Or french-free a line you're climbing. This will help you get confidence in the gear. After that, start falling on the gear and get going and climb!
|
|
|
|
|
|
