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camhead
Mar 15, 2003, 4:48 PM
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word out from a traddie wannabe weakass boulderer.
what/where are you favorite crack boulder problems? I'm thinking like very steep, not too highball, and above all, quality jamming. Granite, Monzonite, Limestone, Sandstone, whatever. A six pack of cheap beer to whomever can point me towards the ultimate off-fingers sized roof crack.
anyone been to the Crackhouse?
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kalcario
Mar 15, 2003, 5:46 PM
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In early spring to get my fingers back into thin crack shape I would do laps on Bad Ass Baby, slightly uphill from Bad Ass Mama, both of which are in the Indian Caves area of Yo Valley. Off-fingers roof, hmm...A Dog's and Alien Roof in Yosemite, but sorry, you gotta rope up...
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lox
Mar 15, 2003, 5:50 PM
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Oh and Camhead... I know of a 90 foot roof crack between horizontal and 45 degrees which has NEVER BEEN FA'ed.
You want to make a name for yourself in central Texas ?
Bring a blowtorch and some tape.
You would alos prolly be down to get on the OFFWIDTH horizontasl to 45 degrees I found at the BATCAVE. Heh.
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camhead
Mar 15, 2003, 6:28 PM
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whoa. donde está? must go.
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easysteve
Mar 15, 2003, 7:13 PM
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I never saw the crack on centex 2wo...
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camhead
Mar 15, 2003, 7:55 PM
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I can't find centex 2 on bloodyflapper. oh well, I'll have to check it oot sometime.
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crackaddict
Mar 15, 2003, 9:36 PM
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Yes, I have been to the Crackhouse!
C'mon with a name like crackaddict!
You know I've been to the Crackhouse brutha's!
By far the most awesome crack bouldering prob I have ever been on.
My second favorite is Bachar Cracker at camp 4 boulders in Yosemite.
Oh yeah!
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pywiak
Mar 15, 2003, 11:34 PM
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Try Mt. Woodson near San Diego. It is a granite crack bouldering Mecca. Plenty for everyone to play on. Stay off the faces (you'll fry your tips) and the greasy sandbag mantles the locals have wired.
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lox
Mar 16, 2003, 2:50 AM
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Camhead: Check the features box... it is the one marked "Centex Bouldering"...
And the crack only ascent has yet to go, brah...
crozley4lyfe
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pbjosh
Mar 16, 2003, 3:57 AM
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Woodson has a lot of great stuff in the 11- to 12- range, mostly OW and fingers, mostly in the 20 feet high with bad landings category, fun to TR or boulder if you've got them wired :)
Favorite crack boulder problems that I've been on, though:
Pigpen, V3, jtree, 10' roof finger crack to tight hands lip to off fingers leaning awkward topout.
Big Bob's Big Wedge, V5, jtree, 25'+ roof hands/fists to godawful OW finish.
Most inspiring line is definitely Crack House.
josh
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apollodorus
Mar 16, 2003, 4:16 AM
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The Bachar Cracker boulder problem behind Camp 4 is a finger/hand crack out a roof that's about 30 degrees less than horizontal. It has a laydown start, and you never get more than about five feet off the ground. There's often a mattress/crashpad there. The boulder is about 100 feet past the sign at the base of the Yosemite Falls trail, on the left.
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maxter
Mar 16, 2003, 2:46 PM
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McCain Valley has cracks till infinity. Rough and lined with sharp crystals. We found a boulder with 5 different size cracks. It sorta goes on forever.
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alwaysforward
Mar 17, 2003, 4:00 AM
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very cool video. some wild moves.
do you know the rating of that roof?
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kalcario
Mar 17, 2003, 5:07 AM
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You could also just pick some classic splitters in Josh or Yosemite, spread your foam pads out at the base, boulder up as high as you felt comfoortable, and then just jump off. Or downclimb. Or maybe if there's some actual climbers already on the thing, you could bum a top rope and go up as high as you felt safe, say 20' or so, and then lower down. I've seen boulderers do this at sport crags; spread pads out, do the starts and jump off, or just traverse the base, which is cool as long as they don't scream too much...
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lox
Mar 17, 2003, 6:43 AM
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Those aren't bolderers. lol.
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wes_allen
Mar 17, 2003, 3:44 PM
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Vedauwoo has many, many kick ass crack problems, from fingers to OW. Nats three star roof crack there is really nice.
Hueco has some really cool ones as well, like the morgue.
RRG has a couple pretty cool roof problems.
Pigpen and big bob's big wedge in J-tree.
Wes
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lox
Mar 17, 2003, 4:17 PM
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In reply to: do you know the rating of that roof?
There are 2 v4+ cruxes... it's jokingly been called .14b by the only guy to ever have done it.
The crack only ascent awaits some burly crack climber.
Gee Kalcario, the only thing that stands between you and the glory of pulling the hardest crack moves in North America is your definition of "real climbing."
Gosh... it must suck to be that old AND that close minded... lol !
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camhead
Mar 17, 2003, 5:11 PM
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good idea, kalcario, but if it's a route, I'll just rope up. I'm interested exclusively in those cracks which espouse all the elements of bouldering. Besides, everytime I jump on a route without a rope with the intention of 'bouldering' it, I wind up getting myself into trouble.
cruxes of v4+, lox? v4+? uh oh. I'm all over that shizzit.
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lox
Mar 17, 2003, 5:12 PM
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Doubtful, brah.
The IPS scale will slay you.
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camhead
Mar 17, 2003, 9:39 PM
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no, I fear the v4+. I hear that over in france some guy in a beret that smelled bad put up a v4++, but it was chipped.
checked out the movie on bloodyflapper. that crack looks stout. he does like the hand jammy parts, and all thee other sections look like offwidth and stuff.
booobiezzz.
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lox
Mar 17, 2003, 10:31 PM
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I have suggested Dreamtime and similar get graded at v6.
This has yet to be approved by the Committee.
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bvb
Mar 23, 2003, 1:49 AM
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anyone who does not understand that woodson has the best concentration of hard crack bouldering in the u.s. has either never been there, or has not been taking their medication. poway represent. :twisted:
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michaelpaul
Mar 24, 2003, 3:07 PM
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Yeah, Woodson is Super Cool! But after I did the FA of "Pigpen" in Josh I thought that was it, then I did the 2nd (right after Mike Lechlinski did the FA) of "Big Bob's Big Wedge" and so on. I also really dug "Bachar Cracker" in the Valley, There was an Funky ol' shot of me on that one in Rolling Stone Mag. in '82 or so. Overall though it would have to be Woodson.
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lox
Mar 24, 2003, 4:36 PM
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OOOHhh...
Spray a little more for us please !!!1
It lets us know how COOL you are !!!!!111
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