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technique on overhanging climbs
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jumaringjeff


Dec 18, 2001, 12:58 PM
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technique on overhanging climbs
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Hey everyone. I'm looking for some technical pointers for climbing on overhanging routes. I try to 'hang' on my hands rather than pulling all the time, but I still seem to get pumped rather quickly. One thing I'm confused about is how to use my feet to my advantage (it seems as though when I'm on an overhanging route, all of my weight is on my hands, even when my feet are on). Any advice is greatly appreciated.Happy jumaring,jj

*I edited this due to an error with the phBB*

[ This Message was edited by: compclimber on 2001-12-18 13:20 ]


paintinhaler


Dec 18, 2001, 1:32 PM
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 Well your foot work, is the secret to overhung climbing. If you keep your feet higher up than you would on a virtcal climb. This will help you, should. It helps me. Press on your feet and try to use underclings, for you hands. And try to heel hook alot, it can make for a good rest. Hope this helps ya man.



[ This Message was edited by: paintinhaler on 2001-12-18 13:37 ]


Partner polarwid


Dec 18, 2001, 1:52 PM
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Work on your ab strength...
I just climb slabs myself so I am not much help...


crux_clipper


Dec 18, 2001, 3:45 PM
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Hand-foot matches help. Also, toeing the front of a hold and toe hooking the back of it at the same time helps too. And another thing, try to not srtain and hang from hand holds and foot holds at a full body extension. Try to keep you hands and feet relatively close. (i don't mean right next to each other, but so you can hang straight armed and almost straight leggfed)

Works for me


crux_clipper


Dec 18, 2001, 3:48 PM
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if you can get your footwork good, you can easily hang upside down from one hand with little effort. Very useful when leading roofs.


crux_clipper


Dec 18, 2001, 4:01 PM
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if you can get your footwork good, you can easily hang upside down from one hand with little effort. Very useful when leading roofs.


ratstar


Dec 18, 2001, 5:40 PM
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You can often pull up towards your head from a hold and push down with your feet. It gets your arms pumped but if you do it and hold you will gain alot of endurance. Just do it and hang. I am always in caves. I dont know if your on an actual climb but it helps when in a cave cause you got a spotter and when you get tired you get down.


Partner missedyno


Dec 19, 2001, 11:08 PM
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yeah, get someone to show you the technique. there's a lot of twisting and turning involved, according to body position. once someone shows you and you practice, it'll feel totally natural.

climb on!


Partner rrrADAM


Dec 19, 2001, 11:52 PM
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Suck your stomach up to the rock, this will direct more weight to your feet. And hang on your skeleton, and work more twist locks.

If your not using your feet correctly, i.e. arching your stomach in, you won't be using them much.


rrrADAM
p.s. Moved this Topic to the Tecnique & Training Forum.


paulc


Dec 20, 2001, 10:18 AM
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Kinda surprised that no one has mentioned drop knees, they are the bomb for roof routes. They take weight off your hands and also are more stable side to side than going straight on. Needed at times when you need that little bit of extra reach as well, just like on a vert wall.

Bicycling is good, but it takes a fairly large hold to do it (or two holds that are about the right distance apart).

Also don't forget toe/heel hooks in pockets and foot/knee bars.

Paul


stigonrock


Dec 20, 2001, 10:37 AM
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Do all of what has been said above.....

and hang on for dear life...and BREEEEATHE!

Angela


colin


Dec 21, 2001, 8:53 AM
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Go to this website. It has more climbing videos that focus on moves than you could imagine. From deadpointing to simple slopers.


paulc


Dec 21, 2001, 10:22 AM
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Last time I check climbingmotion didn't have that much on overhanging footwork.

Crux clipper basically described a bicycle, you take a hold, usually a stalagtite or so, or a pair of holds that are opposite to each other and put your feet so that one foot is on the side of the hold closest to you, and then you toe hook the far side. then you pinch your feet towards each other.

Foot/knee/arm bars are when you have holds that are just the right distance apart or close enough to the right distance that you can basically (let use a knee bar as an example) wedge your knee on one hold and your foot on the other hold and when the holds are the right distance apart you get a really strong lock.

Knee bars are not all that common outdoors, but can be found in pretty much every gym out there, arm bars are used on offwidth cracks along with chicken wings and a whole lot o pain. foot bars are the most likely to be found outdoors, but are more work as a knee or arm bar uses the strong bones in your lower arm/knee to support you and a foot bar doesn't have as much bone to support your weight so you use more muscle.

pick up a copy of advanced climbing by john long, a good book to have.

Paul

Phew tired from typing. going to rest now to depump.


paulc


Dec 21, 2001, 10:22 AM
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* bars are kinda like a big-bro in a crack. very solid, but it takes the right size space.

Paul


jds100


Dec 21, 2001, 2:27 PM
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Using your feet correctly means also using your abs to suck your stomach and pelvis up to the rock or wall. Too many times I've seen climbers who get their feet on something, but essentially just hang in a V-shape from their hands and feet, and can't really effectively move. Pulling the pelvis and stomach up and in will shift the center of gravity such that the feet can genuinely take some of the weight, and, depending on the technique, apply some pulling or pushing pressure. A lot of times, you may be able to get your foot onto a sizable hold, and roll some weight onto it, almost like standing up on it. But, you can only do this by pulling up with the abdominal and oblique muscles, and a bit with the hip flexors. Go to www.webcrag.com, and read the article on abs.


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