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If you had to choose between BD or WC Cams ?
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wigglestick


Dec 27, 2001, 1:53 PM
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If you had to choose between BD or WC Cams ?
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I have no real preference between the two brands. Most people here will probably tell you to get BD but in reality these two are pretty equal in quality. The BD are nice because they have a slightly bigger range than the WC's therefore you need to buy fewer cams to cover the same range. Although usually your protection options are limited by how many pieces of each size you have. Carrying fewer will only mean you will run out sooner. However, the BDs are priced like gucci. I believe the rigid friends sell for around 35 bucks versus 55+ for BD. The ideal siuation would be to have a set of both. When I started climbing I bought a set of camalots and then bought te cheaper cams to fill in the holes and double up the units that I need the most often. But don't limit yourself to just those brands. You can buy almost 2 full sets of Rock Empire cams for the price of a single set of camalots.


dustinap
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Dec 27, 2001, 2:27 PM
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If you had to choose between BD or WC Cams ? [In reply to]
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Oh yeah, the .5, 1 and 3 BD cam overlaps, so that is all you really need, although I like the gold. Maybe just get those 4, and then get WC rigid OR Technical for however much more you can afford.

Also, aliens rock!

Don't buy the offset tech friends for free climbing though.


wolftek


Dec 27, 2001, 2:45 PM
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If you had to choose between BD or WC Cams ? [In reply to]
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Since my funding is low, I'd go with WC tech friends. I just recently purchased a set of rock empire cams, heading out this weekend to try them out. If you're looking for low priced single stem cams check out northernmountain.com they got a set of trango's for $184.


jbur


Dec 27, 2001, 5:45 PM
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If you had to choose between BD or WC Cams ? [In reply to]
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My personal opinion would be to go with the BD camalots, although the friends are equal in quality I'm sure. I would go with the .5, .75, 1, 2, 3 then fill in the smaller sizes with aliens, maybe the green, yellow, and red. Just my 2 cents, although the cams will be far from that.


timhinck


Dec 27, 2001, 6:17 PM
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If you had to choose between BD or WC Cams ? [In reply to]
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Here's my opinion, Grumpymedic:

BD camalots are great! the only problem besides the slightly hight cost, is that they weigh considerably more than most other cams...

Solution:
here's what I did. I use the smaller camalots (up to about 3.5) then after that I use friends for the big boys and to double up. This saves me money as I don't buy a whole set of camalots, it also saves me money in that fewer of the smaller camalots are required since they cover a broader size range with each camalot. (very expandable). I climb in the southeast, and if you are protecting a lot of horizontals, as I am, you must have flex stems...


these are my comments,
peace,

tim


dustinap
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Dec 27, 2001, 6:25 PM
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If you had to choose between BD or WC Cams ? [In reply to]
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I disagree SLIGHTLY Tim.

IF you climb alot of horizontal cracks, and you make a habbit of falling, you'll be bending your cam stems up. This is where a gunks tie off is nice.

Yes, they are a pain to rack though.

Flexi stems are nice, unless it is desert climbing though, yes.


graniteboy


Dec 27, 2001, 7:20 PM
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If you had to choose between BD or WC Cams ? [In reply to]
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We STILL don't really know what type of CLIMBING you intend to do with these fancy new cams, so advice is cheap and generic.
To wit: If you wanna just freeclimb or alpine climb, and you're not placing in horizontals alot, then the BD's are SuwEET. BUT; If you have any intentions of going bigwalling, realize that the camalots wear out faster than WC cams, especially the fixed shaft ones. The comment abt the horizontals id also true.
I personally get all my cams by following inexperienced climbers up their first bigwall...I guess that makes me a greedy

[ This Message was edited by: graniteboy on 2001-12-27 19:22 ]


dustinap
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Dec 27, 2001, 11:20 PM
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If you had to choose between BD or WC Cams ? [In reply to]
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Rock empire holds falls. They're also CE certified, which means they don't only work, but they are quality.

But get .5 1 and 2, and a .75 if you're rich. then go with 3.5 to 4.5 WC, that is all you should need for most free climbing. If you need to double up on a cam up to a #1 camalot, then get aliens.


ratstar


Dec 28, 2001, 9:26 AM
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If you had to choose between BD or WC Cams ? [In reply to]
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I use BD just cause I always have. I think their awesome.


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