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studmuffin
Dec 28, 2001, 12:43 AM
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i have everything i need to place a few bolts for this really kool face climb. I was wondering if anyone could tell me where i can learn how to place the bolts. I have the drill, the drill bit, all that good stuff, i just want to know if i can get some first hand instructions on how to place them. and how to keep other people from ripping my bolt out. I'm placing into granite, and i know for a fact that i have all the right gear. I just don't want my placement to fall out. THANKS
[ This Message was edited by: studmuffin on 2001-12-27 16:48 ]
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broganadams
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Dec 28, 2001, 1:02 AM
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Well there are many types of bolts you can use and all of them have different ways of staying put. So to start what type of bolts do you have? If you don't have any go to a climbing shop and ask for them. I like wedge anchors. They are pounded in and then you tighten the nut on the top till it is tight. Those anchors will not fall out for years.
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studmuffin
Dec 28, 2001, 1:19 AM
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wedges, alright, sweet, thanks. I'll do that, but now, how do i make sure that someone won't just, unscrew my bolt. Cus that would suk.
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pianomahnn
Dec 28, 2001, 1:26 AM
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Uhm, if you're worried about people unscrewing them, then you don't know how to place bolts. One would use an epoxy to secure them in place so unscrewing isnt possible. Just chopping.
If this face you want to bolt has been know to be trad climbable, its almost guaranteed you'll get an asswhoopin for doing so.
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graniteboy
Dec 28, 2001, 2:54 AM
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Justin;
I suggest you do 2 things; 1)find someone who really knows what they're doing in your neighborhood (few people do) and have them help you practice placing bolts on a smallish (1 to 2 ft square) rock which you keep in your yard. This keeps you from placing your first (probably poorly placed) bolts out of a climbing area. The rock can then be used for all kinds of cool stuff.
2) wait till you're a few years older till you go whacking bolts into a rock at a climbing area. You'll probably be able to freesolo the route by then. I removed my own route once; I'd bolted a 5.10a slab when I was 16 and had done a piss poor job of it. I later freesoloed the route, rapped off, and removed my manky bolts, filling the holes with epoxy and granite sand.
Give it time, kid. You'll get there.
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studmuffin
Dec 28, 2001, 3:04 AM
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will do, thanks for replying, good idea with the rock, i'll do that. thanks again
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