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chickies rock 4-27-03
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climbinganne


Apr 28, 2003, 2:23 AM
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chickies rock 4-27-03
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see link... http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=30467&forum=27

what a day!!!

kate, ben, dave, al, eric, phil, pete, ryan, ryan, ryan (no i am not kidding), robbie, ken...and MIKE...bastard let me deck today on toprope :shock:

it was great climbing and we all had routes...with some to spare ;)

http://www.fototime.com/...oddt=37739.073224537

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0732364815

phil...good luck in YO...you'll do great!!!

we finally meet...heh, i shoulda known you'd be the one hauling the "big wall bag" down the trail..hahahaha..i was on solution crack..and i thought...cool peeps are gonna aid...little did i know when i came around to watch you...i'd end up watching the dude solo 120' :roll:

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0183497106

guys...thanks..it was fun climbing with you ...n00bs!!!1

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0732603472

hi al ;) http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0902981481

look forward to climbing with all y'all soon!!

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0902254514

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0902458796

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0902048264

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0901690162

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0732480556

then on the way home we stopped to see the local sights...

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0902806019

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.0902587269

told you it was a heel hook to send ;)


simzboardr


Apr 28, 2003, 2:31 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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Hey it was great meeting everyone. Yea the haul bag stood out a little witht he normal chickies rock people. Phil says it looks like a big battery? i guess it does then. But maybe we can make a date to all go out climbing again

Pete


climbinganne


Apr 28, 2003, 2:33 AM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Hey it was great meeting everyone. Yea the haul bag stood out a little witht he normal chickies rock people. Phil says it looks like a big battery? i guess it does then. But maybe we can make a date to all go out climbing again

Pete

would love it pete...gosh what a beautiful day we had!!!!


djmclimber


Apr 28, 2003, 4:18 AM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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Thanks Anne, yes it was a beautiful day climbing with friends!


pullonthis


Apr 28, 2003, 5:12 AM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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Hey Anne!

Thank you for all the route beta, and for letting us hop onto one of your ropes. You definitely made mine and eric's first Chickies experiece a very enjoyable one! It was a pleasure meeting you, and hopefully we'll run across each other on the rock again soon! -- AL


katydid


Apr 28, 2003, 11:49 AM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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It was WAY cool to meet so many rc.commers out of the blue at Chickies yesterday -- sorry I didn't have a chance to yap with y'all longer ... guess that means we're all going to have to get together again and go climbing. Damn. ;)


climbinganne


Apr 28, 2003, 12:01 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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wasn't it kate???

and damnit i didnt have my t-shirt...lost 5 signatures yesterday...so we must ALL climb again soon!


In reply to:
Hey Anne!

Thank you for all the route beta, and for letting us hop onto one of your ropes. You definitely made mine and eric's first Chickies experiece a very enjoyable one! It was a pleasure meeting you, and hopefully we'll run across each other on the rock again soon! -- AL

you guys rocked!!!!

anytime, and i will also be more than happy to show you those other areas we discuseed...lemme know when you wanna hook up again!!!

in the first picture al, you are leading witches brew (top left corner btw the block area that meets the ledge and the green/yellow bushes)...you are on riverview ledge at this point setting up an anchor, you can see your butt...hehe.....this is when i noticed what you were doing..and told you the climb wasnt over yet..and you needed to continue through the "block" in the chimney..and anchor to the tree at 120'....how was that chimney???

you did so well leading that climb!!!!!


Partner betaben


Apr 28, 2003, 12:10 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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It was definately cool hooking up with ya'all we must do it Again!!

Darn, now we have to go climbing again,and again, and again.................... :D

Ben


rwaltermyer


Apr 28, 2003, 12:20 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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anne...that last pict is of the NW Buttress right?
So the start of Bypass (the 10a) is right in front of the gentleman is the background??


climbinganne


Apr 28, 2003, 12:59 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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In reply to:
anne...that last pict is of the NW Buttress right?
So the start of Bypass (the 10a) is right in front of the gentleman is the background??


NO!!! i am standing in front of those climbs...when i took this picture...
ken is standing in front of frosted flake, 5.3

kate is in front of solution crack...to the right of the crack is an 11...the one straightedgeteen calls crimpers...it is actually called "great expectations" the 10 (by pass)...is the same start as "great expectations" except you are allowed to use the side of the flake - which actually makes it a climb to the right of great expectations...neither climb allows you to TOUCH solution crack...

in this picture...you can't see either great expectaions...or by pass


rwaltermyer


Apr 28, 2003, 2:00 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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so this picture:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=6019 is to the RIGHT of the Solution Crack??

I thought the texture of the rock matched the rock in front of Ken in the picture, but I guess not.


rwaltermyer


Apr 28, 2003, 2:02 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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also, is it easy to set up the TR for those routes?? do you scramble right up and around the left side there?


climbinganne


Apr 28, 2003, 2:20 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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In reply to:
so this picture:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=6019 is to the RIGHT of the Solution Crack??

I thought the texture of the rock matched the rock in front of Ken in the picture, but I guess not.

no randy...that climb is to the LEFT of solution crack...see...the crack..it is on YOUR right side when looking at the picture..and i can tell by the picture and the way the crack goes that to picture IS NOT a mirror image...sorry randy...but...we did set up the 11 and 10 yesterday

yes...you boulder up to the left to set up TR...i use the two - 3 trees above solution...i add a 3/12 friend to equalize for the 10 and 11 climb in between the rock up there (you know which one i mean right??)

and for the buttress i sling that HUGE boulder (60 feet of webbing!!) if facing the climb from above..the boulder is on your left...come around to the ledge and there's a great crack on the right to place pro (smalls nuts and cams, equalized with cordelette in the crack) and then you can climb the chimney...the crack...the right or left side...all on the same TR...randy we will meet and i'll show you OK???


rwaltermyer


Apr 28, 2003, 2:48 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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sounds good...
i'd love to see that second picture submitted to the site here. I'd give that a 10 b/c it really sums up what Chickies is.


climbinganne


Apr 28, 2003, 3:57 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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randy here is a side shot of great expectations and by pass...if you use any part of the side of the flake you are on by pass...

* kate is on solution crack

hope this clears up the confusion...

http://www.fototime.com/...B804CA7}/picture.JPG


i have a few other pictures i really like of chickies..but i always seem to mess them up somehow...they need edited always a power line....cord from my camera..finger... ;)

randy you soon have time on your hands..here are a few...feel free to submit...if you want to know any of the particulars...pm me...


http://www.fototime.com/...moddt=37739.07317625

http://www.fototime.com/...FF94CA0}/picture.JPG


http://www.fototime.com/...BD9A54B}/picture.JPG

trad climber topping out on train wreck...right side of picture...
http://www.fototime.com/...AF26FC1}/picture.JPG

http://www.fototime.com/...ddt=37739.6323498843

oooops, how did that get in there ;)


pullonthis


Apr 28, 2003, 5:59 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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In reply to:

you guys rocked!!!!

anytime, and i will also be more than happy to show you those other areas we discuseed...lemme know when you wanna hook up again!!!

in the first picture al, you are leading witches brew (top left corner btw the block area that meets the ledge and the green/yellow bushes)...you are on riverview ledge at this point setting up an anchor, you can see your butt...hehe.....this is when i noticed what you were doing..and told you the climb wasnt over yet..and you needed to continue through the "block" in the chimney..and anchor to the tree at 120'....how was that chimney???

you did so well leading that climb!!!!!

The chimney was crazy fun! I found myself in there with both feet on the left wall, and my back against the right wall, then I reached around the left corner and up. Awesome move! Only problem was I ran out of rope about 20 ft. below the tree, so I had to set an anchor right above the chimney, belay up eric, and then scramble to the top.

I was a little nervous leading that first climb, it had been a couple years since I was on trad gear, after that though it all started coming back and I had a great time! I'd love to get back together with you and check out some other spots. If you're ever planning a trip, let me know! -- AL


ezjay40


Apr 28, 2003, 6:13 PM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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Hey nice Pics... Glad you guys got some nice weather


straightedgeteen


Apr 30, 2003, 12:25 AM
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Re: chickies rock 4-27-03 [In reply to]
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Hey i had alot of fun it was nice meeting you all!


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