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how does someone who climbs a steady 5.10 make the jump to 5
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kriso9tails


Dec 29, 2001, 9:48 PM
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how does someone who climbs a steady 5.10 make the jump to 5
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Get on the hardest route you can finish within an hour (top rope) and work it until either you or the route submits. It's annoying, but it's fast, mind you I don't think that you'll be climbing 11s and 12s too quickly at once a week regardless. If it's really important to get better, then try to climb more. If you can't climb more try as hard as you can. If you don't improve quickly (as in within several months to a couple of years) then just take it easy and enjoy what you can do. The harder the grade the greater commitment (or inherrent freak talent) needed.


dustinap
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Jan 1, 2002, 5:09 PM
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how does someone who climbs a steady 5.10 make the jump to 5 [In reply to]
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I recently went from LEADING 5.10C in side to LEADING 5.12A inside. It took me , about, oh, 6 weeks. Just get someone who will push you REALLY hard.


arete2


Jan 1, 2002, 6:21 PM
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how does someone who climbs a steady 5.10 make the jump to 5 [In reply to]
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Look for the book "How to Climb a 5.12" I ave hard it is really good, thats what my partner says.


metoliusmunchkin


Jan 2, 2002, 10:01 PM
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how does someone who climbs a steady 5.10 make the jump to 5 [In reply to]
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I must agree with Kris when I say that, in order to climb a higher grade, a higher level of commitment is needed. Although, I believe I can personally relate, for I am going through quite similar experiences. It seems the one thing lacking from both your scenario, and mine, is a little extra strength to be needed.

Home training must help in at least more that one way. My father keeps insisting that I do a series of push-ups and sit-ups every night before slumber time, that this will improve strength. I believe him. Although, pull-ups will help as well, also, any other type of 'board training' (finger boards, campus boards, dead boards, etc). The use, and diligent practice upon any of the boards mentioned above, will definitely improve upon one's upper body strength (although not upon climbing technique, that is up to you my friend), allowing one to climb higher grades.


Partner rrrADAM


Jan 2, 2002, 11:15 PM
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how does someone who climbs a steady 5.10 make the jump to 5 [In reply to]
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MOST climbers quickly advance up to the .10's, only to flail on higher reated routes. This is due to a lack of technique.

For me, progressing up into .11's and up requires much more technique than strength. Feet, feet, and more feet seem to be the ticket for me. Try moving your feet twice for every one hand movement. Bouldering will help you develope this skill. Twist locks, drop knees, scums, smears, toe/heel hooks, etc...

One thing I'm doing now that helps... If I'm going for a hold with my left hand, then I get me left foot below me to drive me up, right hand, right foot. This keeps me from barn dooring.

It take patience though... Like I said, .10's quickly, .11's and up much more slowly. Just work the technique. Try working .10's each time trying to climb it as eficiently as possible using PERFECT technique. My technique tends to go out the window when I'm struggling, and need it most.



rrrADAM


jds100


Jan 3, 2002, 8:27 AM
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how does someone who climbs a steady 5.10 make the jump to 5 [In reply to]
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Hey kid (Patagin), if you're serious and going to post intelligently, you'll get good answers. I hope this will be the pattern for your posts in the future.

I basically agree that technique is hugely important to moving up the grades. Develop more and better technique in the grades you're working now. Also, are you onsighting and redpointing quickly the 10s that you're able to climb? Are these on lead or TR?

I am also a big believer in developing additional strength. You can work on the big muscle groups in a conventional workout gym, and you can work on your climbing-specific muscles and tendons in the climbing gym. My experience has been that I've taken big improvment leaps after a 12-week focus on a weight workout for greater strength; it tranlated very well to the climbing gym and to the rock. Stronger lats, arms, back and abs can mean that the smaller muscles won't get fatiqued from overuse. The forearms and fingers (tendons) will only get stronger, though, from climbing or hangboard work.

A lotta times, the holds on these 11s and 12s get really tiny, movement and stances get awkward and/or reachy, and that's where the combination of technique and finger strenth converge.

[ This Message was edited by: jds100 on 2002-01-03 08:30 ]


jt512


Jan 7, 2002, 5:00 PM
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how does someone who climbs a steady 5.10 make the jump to 5 [In reply to]
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Patagin wrote:

"in the gym, i dont seem to have any trouble climbing all the 5.10's but i've been climbing at this lever for about a year.it's the 11's and twelves that stump me. keep in mind that i'm lucky if i can go the gym once a week..."

You're undertraining. Climbing one day a week might be good enough to maintain your current level of ability, but it is not enough to boost you into the big numbers. If you want to build the strength and technique to climb .11s and .12s, you will have to train more often -- 3 to four days a week -- is the ideal for most people. Most of this training should be climbing. Weight training is not going to be particularly helpful at your current level. If you can't get to the climbing gym or to real rock more than once a week, your only option is to build a climbing wall at home.


daggerx


Jan 12, 2002, 3:31 PM
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how does someone who climbs a steady 5.10 make the jump to 5 [In reply to]
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Just push your self so hard it feels like you are going to die, that was the way I dida when I first started and now I can climb some .14 and 6+' but its been 8 years, of climbing like that


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