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lox


May 4, 2003, 7:01 PM
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[the only 5.15's being Realization and La Rambla Direct (a recent one in Spain.)

Wrong.


superxris


May 4, 2003, 7:02 PM
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frankly, seeing as they could all kick my ass repeatedly at any kind of climbing whatsoever, I have a great deal of respect for each and every one of them. If anyone ever caught me saying sharma sucks or caldwell is incapable I hope they'd shove my gri-gri down my throat.


lox


May 4, 2003, 7:07 PM
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THE f___ ROUTE IS 15A SO FIVETEN CAN SELL SHOES!

Did Dave G do it ?

I mean... he's made pretty short work of some of the hardest sportclimbs in the world...

How long did it take him to do Action Directe ?!?!

If he's been on Realization last season and has to come back to get the redpoint, then it makes sense that the route MIGHT be harder than previously attempted and qucikly sent other climbs he has done.


arostecrux


May 4, 2003, 7:19 PM
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Obviously there will never be a best climber. You cannot compare climbers like this. Routes will be sent but isn't it the style and aura in which they go down that really matters? Sharma was THE FIRST. Nobody was pushing him but himself. Its really easy to set your sights on the person ahead of you and just focus on reaching them. How much harder is it when the goals and limits are invisible and you are responsible for defining them? For me, climbing is more about the process of enduring failure for a brief moment of success. Realization took 300 attempts over 3 years. Can any of us accept that kind of failure and still push on?


gymclimbfreak


May 4, 2003, 7:19 PM
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OK... So as far as my understanding goes, and the news that I've heard, Flex Luther, and Realization have not been rated by either climber yet, nor have they been climber by anyone else to give them a rating, but caldwell did say that it was harder than the 14 testpiece they're saying it is. So technically the only 15 that I know of that has been posted is La Rambla Direct in spain...

Now on the argument as far as who is better, they both are amazing climbers. That is undisputed. As Muncher so nicely puts it, what about the other climbers out there?? There are a number of non US climbers that send pretty hard... so give them some props too..

Tim

p.s. some of my info might be erroneous, but i'm going off of memory of what I read in a couple of articles


sandbag


May 4, 2003, 7:21 PM
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They all suck, only because, um, uh, well, uh, i havent been able to climb as well as they can.... Yeah! thats why!
:roll:


andy_lemon


May 4, 2003, 7:54 PM
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and all you realizations sluts out there...


While I'm not a realization slut, I am realizing that I'm a slut. :wink:


djmeat


May 4, 2003, 8:00 PM
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if chris sharma sucks so bad why does every climber ont he planet know his name and credentials like thier own....


jstokey


May 4, 2003, 8:07 PM
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who cares! look at it this way any of them can kick our ass's on any route.


rhu


May 4, 2003, 8:08 PM
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I don't think that I have ever read or heard anything about Sharma saying he was any good. He is of course, but some of you are acting like he is bragging on himself without anything to back it up. If he did he would have plenty to brag about, but he doesn't.


sandoz


May 4, 2003, 8:10 PM
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personaly i liked dan osman better. that guy was clutch.

...except that mr. osman failed the all-import Darwin test, and was therefor disqualified from this discussion.


doughboy


May 4, 2003, 8:13 PM
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Surely Alex Huber must be the best all round climber in the world. Shock horror, someone from outside the U.S. !!

Great interview with him (Huber) on http://www.8a.nu where he hangs it on all the soft grades (as did Ben Moon about 6 years ago) going around now. The Spanish version of the French grading system must surely be 1-2 grades soft. Fred Rouhling comes in for criticism too.

Appropriately, and in terms of sport climbing, Huber respects Gullich's achievements (historically), as well as Sharma's Realisation (currently), which he quotes as being surely the hardest route in the world.

Time has a funny way of consolidating the grades of a route, normally to something fairly accurate, so in 5 or 10 years time, don't be surprised if Realisation ends up standing the test of time and being the first real 9a+ / 5:15.

But really, does it matter ? I'm sure Sharma, Graham, Fred Nicole, Huber and co couldn't care less about labels like this ... so if they're not vying for this invisible title, why should we waste our time.

Yours hypocritically ...


straightedgeteen


May 4, 2003, 8:14 PM
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Ah Ha! That means nothing, and CalDwell has done a 15. And I bet it's way harder(to figure out, the real judge of difficulty) than sharma's crimp fest. And potter trad accomplishments are more impressive than any, ANY sport route.

Potter is amazing!


timstich


May 4, 2003, 8:15 PM
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straightedgeteen


May 4, 2003, 8:20 PM
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I personaly think hes a great climber...... not the best becuase once your the best, some ones already beaten you! There are always better climbers but hes a good climber.... i wish i could do some stuff that he dose!


fritzski


May 4, 2003, 8:51 PM
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What I can't believe is that you would say he SUCKS! He obviously does just about everything except THAT! Whether or not he's the best in the world or not, I'll bet he'd never say the same about you. What ever happened to a little respect for those whose hard work and accomplishments have advanced the sport we all love. Here's to Chris, Tommy, Alex, Dean and all the others who I've never met, but have only read about and hold only admiration and respect for your world class accomplishments.


okinawatricam


May 4, 2003, 9:34 PM
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I guess you're right, Sharma sucks, after all all of us learn to climb trad on Alien 12 in Yosemite.


Partner rrrADAM


May 4, 2003, 9:40 PM
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He's definately one of the best sport climbers/boulderers, but not the best all around, as he does very little Trad.

I watched him at the PBC, and he can could really climb better than most of us even if he were wearing oven mitts and shower shoes.

And he's pretty humble.



He's a far cry from the gym climbing 5.12 spray lords that seem to think they are experts.


exrunner


May 4, 2003, 9:55 PM
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[the only 5.15's being Realization and La Rambla Direct (a recent one in Spain.)

Wrong.

Wait . . . so where does it say that Realization isn't 5.15a? I've never heard it referred to as anything else. I'm not saying it is 5.15a or anything, but where does it say the grade?


mr.poo
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May 4, 2003, 10:01 PM
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sharma doesn't suck, only the guy that started this post and those that agree with him suck. i cant stand people that hate things just because they can not achieve better.


sparky


May 4, 2003, 10:14 PM
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caldwell is the best, 30 some pitches in 19 hours sereral of which were .13 and most all .11 or up


muncher


May 4, 2003, 10:25 PM
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What about Yuji Hirayama. He did the Salathe even quicker. Tha is not the point though, as has been said lots before does it really matter who is best? What matters is that people are out there pushing the limits and providing inspiration for people like us.


andy_lemon


May 4, 2003, 10:28 PM
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caldwell is the best, 30 some pitches in 19 hours sereral of which were .13 and most all .11 or up

You forgot to mention that it was trad...


monkeyarm


May 4, 2003, 10:39 PM
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My vote is for Fred Rouhling, he set a 5.15b (Akira). He is just not the attention whore the others are. Akira has withstood the criticism it received when it was first created, is not chipped, and has been been deemed near impossible by the few who have attempted it.

While it has not been seconded neither has Realization, so if you gonna count Realization as a 5.15a then you need to consider Akira a 5.15b, and he who has climbed harder should be considered the better climber.


mr.poo
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May 4, 2003, 10:43 PM
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first of all i dont trad climb but i really hate when a trad climber thinks he or his kind are better than any other climber just because he trad climbs. sorry guys but climbing is divided into many parts. this sport has its own sub-sports. bouldering, top rope, soloing, sport, trad, aid, ice, and im sure the list goes on. i am sure that just because a climber is trad oriented that it doesn't make him or her a stronger, smarter, BETTER climber than a sport climber or a boulderer. man get over it. trad looks very sweet and technical but get over yourselves. each type of climbing takes very different elements to make it work. stop tryen to compar them, they are too different. sharma isnt the best climber in the world, i am sure caldwell could out-trad his ass all over the rock but that doesn't make one better than the other. and i can assure you that caldwell and sharma dont look down on each other, it is you guys that try to make one look better than the next. real climbers dont fight over who is the best or what type of climbing is better. real climbers go to the rock and climb with each other, push each other, help each other, and enjoy a great experience with each other. be like that, never say someone sux when unless they are a truly despicable human being.

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