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greatgarbanzo


Jan 1, 2002, 6:54 PM
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Ok, the best thing you can do for your climbing is CLIMBING, specially if you are a beginner.

DO NOT TRY ANY HARDCORE CLIMBING SPECIFIC TRAINING BECAUSE YOU WILL GET INJURE. You would be able to do specific climbing training (campus board, finger deadhangs, etc.) ONLY after climbing consistently 5.10 and over.

First start with some pull ups and abdominal crunches. If you cant handle a single pull up then get a bungee cord attach to your body and the bar to help you a bit or get some one to push you up so that you can do AT LEAST 5 PULL UPS.





beyond_gravity


Jan 1, 2002, 8:11 PM
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Hey, The biggest problem i started with (and still have) is trying to get with a routine if you start weak. You read that you should warm up campusing slow and easy, which I can't do at the bet of times. I made myself and hangboard and just started doing dead hangs as long as I could for 30 mins a day. 2 weeks later i made myself and campus board and I campus with my feet on the ground. This doesnt seem like much, but it got me to 5.11
Happy Training


juniper


Jan 1, 2002, 9:15 PM
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well as a relative newbie to climbing myself, here's what I try to do:
1. climb every day
2. do fingerboarding (even if its just dead hangs) for a little while every day
3. have a friend build you a wall in your apartment and climb...everyday
are you sensing a trend here? regular gym workouts are great and climbing does require that you be in good shape, but there is no training like actual climbing -- so get out to a climbing gym and ask for help. Everyone was a beginner once. Rock on.

[ This Message was edited by: juniper on 2002-01-01 21:16 ]


Partner pianomahnn


Jan 1, 2002, 10:18 PM
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Indoor climbing is about the only thing we (those living in flatland IL) can do to substitute that real climbing. Luckily there are many gyms to choose from.

The great things about gyms is they allow very safe and varied training experiences. Because of the nature of indoor climbing, training programs are somewhat limitless. You can work endless pocket routes, slopers, crimps, jugs, cracks, etc. Bouldering, Endurance. Etc.

Yeah, real rock is super duper, and much nicer, but for the situation we're in, you have to take what you can get.


maculated


Jan 2, 2002, 3:00 AM
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Fingerboards are little contraptions designed for climbers to work on - you guessed it - finger strengthening. I've seen simple ones made of wood (you can use a door frame), but most are made of the same type of plastic as indoor climbing holds and have designs meant to maximize the grips available to you in a small area. The idea is that you do mini-workouts on them, dead hangs, pull ups, etc - all in crimps, pinches, etc. (these are different types of holds).


beyond_gravity


Jan 2, 2002, 4:22 PM
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Hey Ana,
The 5.whatever rating is knowen as the Yosemite Decimal system. from 5.1 to 5.15. most people in the world can climb 5.6 or 5.7. 5.9 and under is concidered beginner. above 5.9 you get into stuff like 5.10c with letters a-d, a being easyist, d being hardest. most people can get to 5.10's easyily just by climbing occationaly, but to make the jump to 11 or 12 u'll have to start training. if you climb 5.13, your really good, if u climb 5.14, your amazing, and if you climb 5.15a, your chris sharma.


lschlack


Jan 2, 2002, 8:29 PM
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Hi anastasia,

in the above post you asked about the unit of measure and mentioned how high was a 5.7 etc. If you mean how high vertically, the rating has nothing to do with elevation. The rating system is based on the dificulty level of the hardest part of the climb(route).

Many difficult climbs are not really high but they are difficult (the less there is to grab on to the more difficult the route and hence the higher the rating).

If there are a lot of big holds (buckets)and less than completely vertical the climb will be rated lower (for example maybe 5.8 ) but if the climb has very few hold and is 90 degrees (or more) it could be rated for example a 5.11.

Regards,
Larry

[ This Message was edited by: lschlack on 2002-01-02 20:30 ]


treyr


Jan 4, 2002, 5:02 PM
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Basic advice dont use over do it. If you do u will regret it later!!!!


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