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wigglestick


Jan 1, 2002, 7:29 PM
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I have the petzl corax and I seem to recall (my harness is in the car right now and I am too lazy to get it) fitting 8-9 carbiners on each of the loops. But if you are going to carry 36 or more carabiners on your harness you might want to look into an over the shoulder gear sling. I had a metolius 3d before and the corax definately carrys more but that is not always a good thing. Light is right!


wigglestick


Jan 1, 2002, 8:24 PM
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I know what you are talking about with the metolius shoulder sling. Those individual loops sound like a good idea but they cause the sling to "wear" funny and you can never reach that back loop without feeling like you are going to dislocate your shoulder.

I like my Corax to a degree but if it gets stolen or something I would not buy another one. In my opinions here are the pros and cons.
Pros-
-I like the double buckles and the fact that it is hard to put the harness on wrong. No double back etc.
-It has a neat, low profile tie in area due to the double buckle arrangement.
-Fairly comfortable and easily adjustable.
-The gear loops actually do work pretty good, at least better than the usual round plastic loops.
Cons-
-No haul loop, I fixed this by tying a sling around the waist belt but still would like one on there permanently.
-Those fancy gear loops really suck if you try to sleep in your harness (not hanging in your harness all night, which would suck no matter what, but actually laying down on a ledge in your bag and staying tied in). These loops also make it uncomfortable to carry a pack with the waistbelt.

It is a good harness for the sport climber and/or grade II-III trad climber. But if you plan on hanging in your harness all day I would suggest dropping the coin and getting a harness specifically suited for that.

I saw a harness made by Beal that had a removable super wide foam pad that you could use for long hanging belays and then remove for shorter routes. It seems like a good idea to me.


dustinap
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Jan 1, 2002, 8:36 PM
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Yeah, I think REI makes the best gear sling


Doesn't the caldiris come with a haul loop?


wigglestick


Jan 2, 2002, 6:54 AM
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I don't think so. Petzl quit putting them on all their harnesses for some reason. Big mistake. Instead the corax, and the caladrisis has this overbuilt plastic snap thingy that can adjust the rise of the leg loops in the back. And even it doesn't do a very good job.

My next harness is going to be the yates shield harness or the misty mountain cadillac.

[ This Message was edited by: wigglestick on 2002-01-02 07:17 ]


dustinap
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Jan 2, 2002, 12:26 PM
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Maybe I 'll try the Misty one on again. It seemed kind of bulky and restricting though.


socialclimber


Jan 2, 2002, 2:49 PM
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I can fit 8 carabiners on one loop of my Calidris. Petzl recommend no more than 5kg of gear on each loop. My harness dosen't have a haul loop though you would be able to rig something very easily from the adjustment tab on the elastic leg loop stays. There is a hole in it for a small(key ring)carabiner I guess to hang your chalk bag from. Another option would be to do what I have done, splice or tie a length of cord between the two rear gear loops, there is a rather curious hole in each gear loop that is ideal for tying into.(Cali/corax owners know what I'm talking about). The idea was to hang my chalk bag from the cord so I could pull it left or right for easy access, but I found it was also handy for getting un-needed hardware out of the way ie, my BD while I'm climbing. There would be no problem hanging a haul rope from it either.
As for sleeping in my harness, I've never tried it but I'd say the gear loops wern't designed with that in mind. Overall, my Cali has done everything I've asked of it so far, its fine for gym, sport or trad and the split back support design works well for vertically challanged people like myself cause it compresses a little rather than digging me in the ribs.


lildragon


Jan 2, 2002, 4:26 PM
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the holes in the gear loops are supposed to be for a carabiner. ie. to rack ice screws. it doesn't do a great job, but it was a nice idea. the carabiner isn't held snug enough, therefore it spins around when you're trying to get the screws off. it works well with some biners, but most straight/wire gates don't have round stocks, and using lockers like petzl suggests, just doesn't makes sense. i find arcteryx ice devices, or duct taping a carabiner on your gear loops still works better.


eminem_imposter


Jan 2, 2002, 6:07 PM
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i too have been looking for a petzl harness and all signs point to the corax, i hear it holds quite a few biners in each loop and it is fully adjustable, very light not bulky at all and all around one of the most comfortable harnesses at that price, it normally runs for around 70-80 dollars.


traide


Jan 3, 2002, 7:57 PM
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Has anyone ever tried rigging a haul system using the holes on the gear loops? I don't trad, but when I bought my corax, I emailed Petzel asking the very same question you guys are asking, and they told me that those holes were designed with that in mind...


rockjock04


Jan 3, 2002, 8:08 PM
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sorry to change the subject, but does anyone know the poundage a gear loop on the BD Mentor 2 A/L can hold? I have to biner leg loops to them cause its too big. hey dustinap, you think your short. Im 16 and I only am 4 foot 11. I have a 23" waist, and like 14 inch around thighs. I do have the advantage of strength to weight ratio though.


wigglestick


Jan 3, 2002, 8:14 PM
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You can tie a sling to the gear loops of the harness if you want but those gear loops are only recommended to hold 5kg or something like that. That would not be anywhere close to a full strength haul loop which is what it is lacking. I made something closer to a full-strength haul loop by tying a runner around the entire waist belt and threading it through the plastic piece on the back of the harness to keep the loop centered. It works ok but not ideal cause the knot sometimes get stuck between my body and the waist belt and is not very comfortable.


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