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Jan 3, 2002, 6:46 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2001
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In good ice they can be bomber. I don't trust one alone unless I'm the one who placed it. I came across quite a few old ones rapping of ice climbs in the canadian rockies. What I usually did was pick the best one of the bunch (not easy) then sit my own and equalize. You use up more cord, but have more piece of mind. Remember also that ropes have been pulled through those other cords so inspect carefully. I have used them as a piece of the belay, but not the sole anchor. One thread does not make a belay anchor in my book. If you have to use one that is already there, back it up with a couple of screws where the weight of the rappel is completly on the v-thread. Then the first climber down can give it a bounce test once they are down. If it passes the test and you feel comfy, remove the screws and rap. Make many at ground level until you feel confident in your abilities, don't place them in bulges, and as always use your own good judgement. That one your rapping off may be somebodies first. Ice melts, things change day to day. Just because it was bomber yesterday does'nt mean it is today. Of course that's just how I look at it. Sorry about the long post.

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Alpine & Ice


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