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Recommended Trad Routes In Big Bear
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enigma


May 22, 2003, 12:55 AM
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Recommended Trad Routes In Big Bear  (North_America: United_States: California: San_Bernardino_County: Castle_Rock)
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=Looking to climb some trad routes up to 5.10 in the Big Bear Area, especially longer routes, or multi-pitch. Not sure if Castle Rock is the best area or not. :!:

I have the book Hidden Treasures- any references would be appreciated along with camping suggestions nearby/thanks :P


Any good ideas, tigerbythetail???or anyone else familiar with the area.


mungeclimber


May 22, 2003, 8:26 AM
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Re: Recommended Trad Routes In Big Bear [In reply to]
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multi pitch in Big Bear? heh, that's funny

Suicide and Tahquitz- go now, don't go to Big Bear


enigma


May 22, 2003, 10:17 AM
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Re: Recommended Trad Routes In Big Bear [In reply to]
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multi pitch in Big Bear? heh, that's funny

Suicide and Tahquitz- go now, don't go to Big Bear

Oh,please tell me some good routes there, (yeah I know about Suicide and Tahquitz), I just think they'll be crowded this weekend. :roll:


pbjosh


May 22, 2003, 10:41 AM
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Re: Recommended Trad Routes In Big Bear [In reply to]
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If you can't find something decent to climb @ Tahquitz or Suicide on even the most terribly crowded weekends you lack imagination. There are probably 50 great multipitch routes up there up to 5.10-, most of them excellent, and there are usually only traffic jams on less than a dozen of them - Fingertrip, Angel's Fright, Whodunnit, Long Climb, Open Book, Surprise, Serpentine, Left Ski Track are probably the most popular. But there are tons of other great routes, and I'm sure I'm missing a ton:

El Whampo
El Grandote
Northeast Face (many variations)
Lark (three variations)
Sahara Terror
Consolation
Illegitimate
White Maiden's Walkway
Fool's Rush
The Step
Super Pooper
The Jam Crack
Dave's Deviation
Piton Pooper
Human Fright
The Blank
Fingertrip Traverse
El Camino Real
Coffin Nail
Jensen's Jaunt
Mechanic's Route
Right Ski Track
The Innominate

There are many more that I've forgotten I'm sure, and I won't bother with listing stuff at Suicide as I don't know it nearly as well, but there's scads more good stuff over there for sure!

josh


tigerbythetail


May 22, 2003, 4:55 PM
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Re: Recommended Trad Routes In Big Bear [In reply to]
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The Idyllwild area is definately the place to go for multi-pitch climbing, however if you want some fun cragging consider the Big Bear/Arrowhead areas as they both see far less traffic and are comprised of many different areas which tends to spread people out more.

Some ideas for trad climbing in the San Bernardino Mountains -

Keller Peak - short but fun climbs with typically short approaches
Black Bluff - a 30 minute hike to some great cracks with nobody around
Arctic Temple - cracks to rival Suicide and Tahquitz (in quality)
Deep Creek - short splitters above a stream (still flowing)
Arrowhead Pinnacles - Probably too warm unless it cools off but tons of stuff there
The Coven - Several great lines with nice views of Big Bear Lake
Crafts Peak - some gems here all with a 10 minute approach
Holcomb Valley Pinnacles - plenty of cracks and mixed lines here that never see traffic as everybody clips bolts (check the route database for some ideas)
Castle Rock - some great lines but it gets swarmed with hikers and large groups TR'ing

It's entirely possible that if you choose some of these areas you may not see another party all day...something refreshing in this day and age.

Climbed yesterday in Big Bear and the temps were perfect in the shade and tolerable in the sun later in the day. Should be nice up there this weekend.


kmiyamoto


Jun 30, 2003, 11:25 AM
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Re: Recommended Trad Routes In Big Bear [In reply to]
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Hey, could any of you tell me a bit about Castle Rock? I climb Stoney Point... up to 5.10abc's. I'll also have a mid level climber (my wife) who can do 5.9's and maybe pull a 5.10. My other climbing partner is on same level as me.

I'm looking for some good TR routes... natural anchors or bolts. Any suggestions? Websites? Cheap guide books?


enigma


Jun 30, 2003, 1:04 PM
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Re: Recommended Trad Routes In Big Bear [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Hey, could any of you tell me a bit about Castle Rock? I climb Stoney Point... up to 5.10abc's. I'll also have a mid level climber (my wife) who can do 5.9's and maybe pull a 5.10. My other climbing partner is on same level as me.

I'm looking for some good TR routes... natural anchors or bolts. Any suggestions? Websites? Cheap guide books?


Hidden Treasures---$25.00--Check out the routes on this database :idea:


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