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flamer
May 28, 2003, 11:43 PM
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Just left the valley today(28th may). I spent 2 weeks there and found out some new and interesting little tidbits while I was there.
The coolest is the Free climbing going on on El cap...The Hubers(alex and Thomas) are Freeing ZODIAC!!! I shared a site with them in C4 (and a few beers, those Germans can drink!) and here is what they told me..They said they had freed all the moves and were working on linking them and dialing in the crux pitchs...then in a couple of weeks they will be going for a red point attempt- from the ground...they seemed pretty confident. They also told me that Leo Houlding and crew were trying to free New Jersey Turnpike...and I saw them up there ALOT. I met Yuji Hirayuma who was working on freeing Lurking Fear...he showed my partner how he'd glued his finger nails to his fingers so he wouldn't rip them off on the incredibily small edges!
Yosar "rescued" a huge block from the stoveleg's....I think a better word is ..."removed".
PTPP is there pissing people off. Including me..He dropped a hook off of Bermuda dunes which plummeted 600ft and hit me directly on the left index finger...I got lucky and it didn't break...and no he can't have his damn hook back! The yosemite locals seem to think all he ever does is drop stuff....haulbags, hooks, names.
I had a good trip..Highlights included Lurking Fear, Crest Jewel, and LTWF in 9hrs. Did some cragging too..but my free climbing got cut alittle short when mister butter fingers dropped that damn hook...
There's more but I feel this is enough for now.....
josh
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madturtle
May 29, 2003, 12:00 AM
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man, talk about name dropping :wink: . Glad to hear you had a good trip.
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flamer
May 29, 2003, 12:05 AM
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:shock: Yeah I guess that whole thing does kind'a sound that way huh? I was trying to give people the current "happenings" in the valley..but I guess I just sounded all.."hey look at me look who I know!!'...what an idiot!!
josh
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totigers
May 29, 2003, 12:06 AM
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no kidding and wished I was there. I've never been but it always sounds like so much fun.
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madturtle
May 29, 2003, 12:15 AM
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I wouldn't worry about it. I was just breaking balls cause I'm jealous being stuck here working while you're out climbing routes in the valley.
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moabbeth
May 29, 2003, 12:35 AM
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Nice. Yeah, I heard about the Hubers and their attempt to free Zodiac. I guess they've had some fixed lines up there all month.
Hey, I'm suprised no one has nicknamed Pete "Trundlesby" yet for that :lol: . Sorry to hear about your injury. You should kidnap Wee-wee and hold him hostage until your finger heals.
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iamthewallress
May 29, 2003, 12:54 AM
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Trundlesby is already taken by a really nice local guy.
Canadian Assasin is the nickname that some locals have given to Pete.
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coldclimb
May 29, 2003, 12:55 AM
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How about "Pitchthepitonspete?" ;) :twisted: :lol:
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extrememountaineer
May 29, 2003, 1:04 AM
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flamer...I am going to be in the Valley early tomorrow AM. I have a new 1250mm lense I am going to be trying out on El Cap climbers for the first time. Anybody you know going to be up there tomorrow? Are the Hubers still going to be working Zodiac? The lense I have is a Meade Telescope lense that I have only used for surfing photos so far and want to get some "up close and personal" pics of climbers on the Captain or other walls.
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flamer
May 29, 2003, 1:26 AM
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EXtreme,
point your lense at the nose and snap away! This nose could use some serious Sudafed...can you say Nasal congestion?
The Hubers should be working the route for awhile...at least that was what they said.
Pete and crew should be on Bermuda dunes for ALONG TIME. I heard they had a Charcoal grill and like 20lbs. of D batteries for the Ghetto blaster. Yuji might be working Lurking fear on and off. Some guys were talking about South seas when I left. hope that helps.
josh
The "Canadian Assasin"- I love it!
josh
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epic_ed
May 29, 2003, 1:53 AM
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Um, 20 lbs of D cells? You gotta be kidding me. Dear god....
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climbingcowboy
May 29, 2003, 2:48 AM
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dude Flamer how do those guys (hubers, yuji) do that thier sick truly sick!!! Sorry to hear about your finger ouch
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flamer
May 29, 2003, 5:58 PM
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Cowboy,
So true! I have know Idea how they free some of that stuff.
I was climbing up lurking fear (totally aiding!) when Yuji rapped by brushing "holds"- the guy is sick it looked so hard!
My finger is healing fine..I think I was lucky...plus I was sitting on a rock bent over taking my shoes off...so it just missed my head by like 6"s!!! Oh well bad thinmgs happen sometimes!
josh
P.S.
I also met Ammon and Catra, who are 2 cool people. I only met ammon for like 2 minutes...but I had lunch at the Deli with Catra and another girl(who's name I forgot) and I had a great time talking with catra(and the other girl!)
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epic_ed
May 29, 2003, 6:24 PM
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Curious -- what kind of hook did you get pegged with? If it was one of the Fish hooks, those muthers are beefy!
Lucky, indeed. Did you and Pete have any sort of verbal exchange afterward? :lol:
Ed
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flamer
May 29, 2003, 6:57 PM
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It was a modified cliffhanger- I'm sure glad it wasn't one of the fish jobs!
The only verbal exchange went like this....Pete to his partner(s) "I think I dropped something...but I don't know what it was"....Me to pete " you dropped a hook pete, you a**hole!" I'm not sure if he heard me. But the 10 or so people cragging at the base sure did!
I was not happy.
josh
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coldclimb
May 29, 2003, 7:01 PM
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So now the only real question left unanswered is this:
Should the hook be retired, or might it be all right since it didn't hit the hard rock, but had something soft to break its fall?
:lol: :lol:
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alpinestylist
May 29, 2003, 7:21 PM
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Hey flameski...
Greetings from the sofa!
Glad you had a good trip
B
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lambone
May 29, 2003, 7:25 PM
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Yeah, the hook should be retired, send it to me and I'll dispose of it.
Flamer, you shouldn't be so pissed, people drop shit, it's El Cap, stand under it and things can land on you...you chose to take that risk. Stand under Pete and your taking a huge risk! Just be glad it wasn't a haulbag!
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ricardol
May 29, 2003, 7:39 PM
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hehe -- hiking up to the base of el cap at night .. we heard a few pins coming down from WAY above .. its a pretty sound .. kind of like a tuning fork as it bounched along on its way down to me!..
-- ricardo
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flamer
May 29, 2003, 7:59 PM
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Hey Brent! How's the toes? When will you be back in the saddle?
lambone, yeah I agree with you about the base of El cap.
I just think it's funny how Pete puts himself up on this pedastal and then keeps doing things that prove just how much he is like the rest of us...although I didn't drop anything off Lurking Fear...lol.
josh
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yenni
May 29, 2003, 8:01 PM
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hey flamer
it was cool to meet you. Ammon and Catra are definitely awesome, two of the coolest people ever! They are both so chill for the stuff they do!! :D
I'm still jealous that you got to spend all that time there!
yen
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flamer
May 30, 2003, 12:47 AM
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Yenni,
A ha! The "other girl with Catra" makes an appearance!
It was really good to meet you as well, I had a great time talking with you and Catra.
Hopefully our paths will cross again.
josh
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extrememountaineer
May 31, 2003, 1:21 AM
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Flamer, you were right, the Nose was crowded as was the whole Big Stone. There were parties scattered all over that thing. I met Alex and Thomas in the meadow and visited for a while. Met Karl Baba at the start of Royal Arches. Took some pics of Ammon soloing Zodiac and scoping a new route. Wouldn't have known he was there if it weren't for Alex telling me. It was my first attempt at using this telescope lense and I was experimenting with all sorts of film and settings. Unknown if any will actually turn out. Took pics of people on the Salathe, Bermuda Dunes, Nose, Adrift/Reticent, Tangerine Trip, Zodiac, and the DNB of Middle Cathedral. If they turn out I will make a separate thread and try to contact the climbers to get copies to them.
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stonefiend
May 31, 2003, 3:32 AM
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i respect yuji hirayama with honor.. amazing skill and humbleness. well rounded with a very good attitude to boot. i wish the best on his free ascent of lurking fear.
t. huber kinda pissed me off.. after he dipped in my chalkbag numerous times whist bouldering.. didn't ask, he grabbed my brush out of my pocket and began brushing his holds.. asking only after he had finished brushing. i understand being elite and famous may give you a sense of importance, but fame should not eliminate your sense of humanity.
because one climbs a peice of stone, whether it be 5.6 or 5.15, shouldn't determine your worth.. you're still only climbing a f-ing rock. should it matter?.. only to those who care.
be human.
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jhwnewengland
May 31, 2003, 3:35 AM
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haha! BE HUMAN. Seriously man. Be human.
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