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An important decision.....
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mauta


Jan 7, 2002, 10:30 AM
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Registered: Dec 11, 2001
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An important decision.....
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Hi to all,
How do you react when some climber you have not seen before approaches you and ask "hi, can i climb with you?".
You know, i like to be friendly but this is a very dangerous sport. Even top roping at a Gym you could be deadly if your belayer makes a big mistake.
So, What do you do??
Do you refuse climbing with an unknown partner?
If no, how do you check his knowledge and climbing safety, without making feel him you are taking an exam?
On the other hand, take into account that this guy is in the same position as you are, and can also doubt about your climbing ability.

Thanks in advance for your opinions on this subject,

JUAN


zlipper


Jan 7, 2002, 12:16 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2001
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ok this has happened to me in a number of situations and what i do is, to build trust. I prefer to belay first and check knots beaners and equipment if all that is done right by the person then they should know how to belay properly. but always look for their intrest in safety if he/she checks your equipment then they're safety aware so you should be able to trust them. or the ultimate test is start climbing on somthing with a low overhang and at a more difficult move take a "fall" and if they lock off properly and hold ya then you should be fine


saltspringer


Jan 7, 2002, 1:45 PM
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I'd also talk with them about what sort of climbing they've done and what level they're comfortable climbing at...it sucks to be stuck without a partner but it's even worse if you end up with one that's unsafe.


jsm280


Jan 7, 2002, 1:46 PM
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I have taken people in, only when I have a trused partner with me. I will back up the new guys belay while he belays my current partner. I will not however just go climb hard with someone I don't know.

I have no problem belaying a new guy on top rope, I will give a quick test for someone before I let them go on lead if they seem to be a strong climber (I check to see if they know -> back-clip, z-lip, clipping stances and watch the make some clips while bouldering. I set some low pro for this), and never TRAD. and as an example I have only met 2 people at the crag which I belayed on lead and I had seen them both lead before.

I do guided trips and for those I will climb with a new person, however I climb way below my limit (basicly a free solo at this point) only to set top ropes or clean a route.


wolftek


Jan 8, 2002, 9:37 AM
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This situation happened just a couple weeks ago to me and my buddie. We where waiting for a climb in JT and this guy that had been sitting watching everyone asked if he could join us. We asked him how long he had been climbing and what he felt safe with, come to find out he used to climb with the guys that put up the route we where about to climb. Anyway my buddy led I followed with another rope and the gentleman climbed last. That way we did not have to worry about his belay or safety.


camhead


Jan 8, 2002, 10:30 AM
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I've been in this situation many times, both looking for a partner and being approached by those that are looking. Usually I will get a few bolts up, and take a short practice fall of no more than two feet or so. If the partner does not catch me, I lower off and finish the climb with somebody I know. This has only happened once, however. At least from my observations, lone climbers seeking partners at crags seem to know their s**t.


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