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leaverbiner
Jun 17, 2003, 8:56 AM
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O.k., looking for someone with some knowledge here - I've been climbing at the New and Summersville for a few years, and am pretty knowledgeable about the routes there, but, I also know that in the past year or 2 a few new routes were bolted at the lake upstream from the Oswald Wall . . . I took a look at a few of them 2 weeks ago and they look pretty sweet (unfortunately they were wet when I was there). DOes anyone have any beta on these climbs, i.e. grades who bolted them etc . . . I've heard lots of rumors, but owuld love some solid info . . . I owuld love to ahve a few new climbs to do at the Lake . . . getting rather bored there, but for one reason or another (partner's projects, easy access for the pooch, etc . .) end up there quite often.
For those who have not been there, walk past Oswald about 100 yards or so. Along the cliff you will see a ledge about 20 feet up. Either scramble up to the ledge or head down another 100 yards and walk up. On top of the ledge there are a number of routes, many having anchors for the belayer to avoid falling off the often sloped and narrow ledge . . .
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madriver
Jun 17, 2003, 9:20 AM
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Thanks Biner.....looking forward to getting back there soon...
Bob
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jinn
Jun 17, 2003, 9:23 AM
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ive been down to summersville about 2 weeks ago. i didnt notice any new bolting going on. i usually dont go past orange oswald wall. she got the bosch i got the drill is one of the last climbs on that face. ill be going down this weekend hopefully. ill look for these climbs and ask some of the locals if they know anything about them. if i find anything, ill post it here.
you may also want to check at water stone outfitters in fayetteville. a lot of climbers work there. lots of climbers also pass through there.
if you dont mind me asking, what grade sport routes were you looking for?
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leaverbiner
Jun 17, 2003, 9:31 AM
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Jinn - thanks . . . I too head down there quite often, basically whenever the weather permits. I've spoken to a few of the locals but have gotten some conflicting info., and keep meaning to bring it up with kenny parker (owner/manager of Waterstone), but always forget . . . as for grades . . . high 12's low 13's . . . been working on a couple of the 13's at the coliseum, but would love to have some more 12's to climb . . . unfortunately there just aren't many at the lake . . . Actually, come to think of it, but for Long Dong (which may be harder than 12d now), and Surfer Rosa, I think I've done all the 12's at the lake (not a huge acomplishment given that there are probably 10 or less) . . .
But, no matter, any onfo people track down would be appreciated. Looks like I'll be heading down this weekend, if I do, I will get on whatever lines I see and post my thoughts and so forth . .
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jinn
Jun 17, 2003, 9:47 AM
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cool. maybe ill see you down there this weekend. ever stay at chestnut creek campsite?
im not sure if youve been to bubba city in the last year, but there are a bunch of routes that have been retrobolted. i do believe there are a number of 12s and 13s. heres a photo of one of them:
http://www.stewartgreen.com/html/galleries/bubba_city/climb2.html
if youd like an update list of the climbs there, find an issue of rock and ice from may 2002. it has a mini guide in there that lists the climbs, number of bolts, and grade. you can also try the meadow. its between fayetteville and summersville. not sure what climbs are there, and what grades. im sure if you ask any of the local climbers, theyll know more about it.
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leaverbiner
Jun 17, 2003, 10:06 AM
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Jinn - Chestnut Creek is definitely the place to be! I have stayed with brian for the past 3 years . . . if you go there regularly, we've probably run into each other.
I have been to Bubba. Actually just after the mini-guide came out we headed over to check some things out . . . some pretty sweet climbs over there, but it is still a bit confusing to find your way around and to be sure ot get on the right route - I accidentally got on a 11d mixed route when I thought I was on a 12b sport route . . . long story short, I ended up running it out about 35 or 40 feet to the top of the cliff where I then traversed to the shuts of the sport climb I thought I was on! I haven't been back to bubba since!
The Meadows is absolutely gorgeous!!! Just amazing. Much mnore peaceul than the other areas, and some of the most spectacular routes in the entire area. I actually have a listing of most of the climbs for the Upper Meadows so if you need some info, let me know. Lots of 12's and 13's down there!
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costellobr
Jun 17, 2003, 12:32 PM
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I think a couple of them are 11 something.
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noshoesnoshirt
Jun 17, 2003, 12:52 PM
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stop wastin' your time clipping bolts; hauling a rope and draws on the hike in sucks.
climbin' over the water is where it's at on summersville. go the the rat hole, or better yet, get hold of a boat and enjoy some prime sandstone over the waves.
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jinn
Jun 17, 2003, 1:53 PM
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so you know brian huh? cool. so how do you like all the handwritten signs all over the campsite? :lol: at least youll never forget the rules huh?
if you take the mini-guide, and the larger of the two guide books, you should be able to figure out where all the routes are. i sat down one night with both of them, and went through the guide book, and highlighted all the new sport routes. most of them are in there, and the ones that arent, i just wrote in, and numbered on the picture. ill see how good it works this weekend.
if your down this weekend at brians, look for a black rav4. we usually stay in the campsites in the low 30s. the ones right by the showers. if i dont see you, have fun, climb safe.
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mountainrat
Jun 17, 2003, 2:35 PM
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Where IS Chestnut Creek in relation to the Lake? "Stigonrock" and I LOVE Summersville- can't wait to quit staying in cheap motels, man!
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leaverbiner
Jun 17, 2003, 2:56 PM
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Chestnut Creek is closer to Fayetteville than it is to the Lake. From the lake drive south on Rt. 19, just before you get to the NRG Bridge you will see an exit for Ames Heights Rd and Lansing Road (lansing Road is where you turn to access Endless). Turn left onto Lansing Road (as if you were going to Endless). Go to the top of the first small hill and Chestnut Creek is on the left.
Jinn - I am usually in the 30's as well, was driving a White Pathfinder, but now drive a Silver Grand Cherokee with a Thule rocket box on the top. Usually easiest to pick me out by the 70lb black lab by my side. If you're down this weekend keep an eye out and say hello. Good luck with Bubba . . . my guess is we will hit the lake one day and then the Hole and Butchers the other . . .
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leaverbiner
Jun 19, 2003, 8:50 AM
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Anyone?
If not, I guess I'll post my thoughts after this weekend.
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jinn
Jun 19, 2003, 9:22 AM
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In reply to: Anyone? If not, I guess I'll post my thoughts after this weekend.
was there another question posted?
well be down there this weekend. ill look for the black lab, and the grand cherokee. climb safe.
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leaverbiner
Jun 20, 2003, 6:52 AM
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I was still trying to see if I could get any solid info. on the climbs, that's all. No biggie. I'll give 'em a burn and see how they feel.
Jinn - as of right now (Fri. 9:45am) we are heading down. Probably hitting the lake on Saturday (the Chicha has projects to clean up) then sunday probably at Butcher's and/or the Hole (more projects for the Chica). I'll be the fool setting up rigging for photo ops! See you down there
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leaverbiner
Jun 23, 2003, 10:39 AM
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Well . . . a little info. about my reconnisance . . . unfortunately, the vast majority of the newer bolt lines were soaked (as were many other routes at the lake). I did take a look to see what exactly was available, it appears that there are at least 9 or 10 bolted lines past the Oswald Wall. I counted 4 lines about 50-75 yards down on the same buttress (these start on the ledge about 20 feet up), then if you continue down the trail and pass the break in the cliff line (this is an alternate route to exit the lake and is used by many dog owners so they don't have to deal with the ladder), you will find at least 5 more bolt lines. Many of these lines look fantastic! I did find one that was dry and decided to give it a burn, looked rather easy as well, so I figured it was no big deal if I ran into a little moisture. In fact, it was pretty decent, but nothing spectaular or approaching classic. After passing the Oswald wall, turning the corner and passing the one bolt line in the guide to the right of thou shall not chum, walk another 30 yards or so and start looking for bolt lines. The one I did I beleive is the 3rd bolt line. You must scamper up to the ledge then walk across looking for belay anchors bolted into the ledge. Decent climb, probably 9+ or 10-. I'll post more info in this thread as the rock dries out and I get the opportunity to try out the other lines.
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climberkid1213
Aug 12, 2004, 9:24 PM
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i love water stone outfitters
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climberkid1213
Aug 12, 2004, 9:25 PM
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i love cliff jumping at sommersville but ive never gotten to climb but im goin to in a week im phyced
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