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catga86


Jan 13, 2002, 11:05 AM
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  Hey, right now I am working on 5.9's...so I guess I am a beginner. Right now I climb at a gym. What is the best shoe for me? The price doesn't matter....


dustinap
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Jan 13, 2002, 12:08 PM
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I climb 12's in my mythos that are very comfortable, so I think those are good shoes.

La Sportiva Cobras are good if you don't mind pain.

5.10 zlippers are good shoes, I've bouldered V4's in them with no performance complaints.

5.10 Spires are fine for 5.11- stuff

5.10 Anazai Lace up is a hardcore shoe.

Dominator V's are suppose to be good shoe.


I deffinently like my mythos for outside climbing! Inside they're good too. I'd buy them again, but I've had 5 pairs of zlippers too.


ravens_wing_jim


Jan 13, 2002, 2:08 PM
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I'll tell ya...
I love my old beat up 5-10s for all around.
But for front pointing on a dime on steep
sport, my La Sportiva Ghibli's(same as the
cobra,only a lace up).
Only problems with the Ghibli is that after
30 minutes my toes are screaming in
pain.


aulwes


Jan 13, 2002, 3:18 PM
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I like the crobra's I've climbed all day in them several times... but I do have to take them off a few times near the end of the day. PAIN!! My first shoe was a scarpa helix, good for beginners!


socialclimber


Jan 14, 2002, 12:31 AM
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The best shoe for you is the one that fits properly. Brand names will give an indication quality. You could spend $300 on a brand name but if they dont fit well, you are going to become disappointed very quickly.


buckjeep


Jan 14, 2002, 4:26 AM
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how about those 5.10 dragons? anyone got a set of those?!

I got oooollld la sportivas...(almost time to retire)and am thinkin about getting the dragons...


daisuke


Jan 14, 2002, 4:33 AM
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the dragons are much like the cobras, painful after a while. If you want a shoe that you can wear for quite a while then you might want to look at the mammut tusk, it's not terribly technical but very comfortable compared to the other mammut shoes, the 5.10 sandbagger is also comfortable I believe (altho it looks like one of them canvas converse shoes, not pretty in my oppinion)


stewbing


Jan 14, 2002, 5:34 AM
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I started to climb in Mythos, a good beginner shoe, they allow you to get started and get use to the feeling of climbing shoes. Nice and tight right

I'm on my second pair of 5.10 Velcro Anazai, a great shoes that I would recommend to everyone. They allow you to do almost anything you want, inside/outside egding is bomber, heel hooking no problem they don't stretch, what more could you ask for!!

D


jackmguirk


Jan 14, 2002, 6:33 AM
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ditto on the anasazis either velcro or lace ups, they are great shoes good on everything from slabs to overhangs, but they are painful when you are jamming them in long cracks.


spank_spank


Jan 14, 2002, 1:08 PM
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Bottom Line - Find a shoe that fits your foot and buy it. I generally prefer Sportiva and Five Ten. There easy to find at your local outdoor store and try on.

Shoes I don't care for - Boreal.


beyond_gravity


Jan 14, 2002, 3:24 PM
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Okey dude, if theres one thing i know about it's shoes. Dont listen to lots of theses posts, most of the are hardcore sporto shoes. What you'll want is a stiffger shoe with lots of rubber to wear though untill you get better foot technique. Forgotabout the Cobras Dragons, there for amazingly overhanging stuff or when you want scenstivity with lots of pain. Personally, i'd recomend the Five Ten Spires, there a good beginner shoe for the sub 5.11 climber, with a fairly stiff sole and lots of rubber to wear though. If you want to go a leavel up, try the Anazasi Velco, It's a mid stiff shoe that can do everything but seriverly overhanging routes, it's also pretty comfy and well loved. The Mythos will also be a good shoe, but it cost more then the five tens and in my opion is comparable to the Anasazi. Stay away from boreal because there rubber is so horrible. 5.10 stealh is the best. XSV, the rubber Sportiva and Red Chili uses is right behind stealth. I hope this helps.


colin


Jan 14, 2002, 4:33 PM
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Good post b_g...one thing though. Most beginners can't notice any differance in rubber so that should not be a factor.



munckee


Jan 14, 2002, 4:37 PM
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Sorry, but I have to disagree a little with b_g and colin.

b_g: my first pair of shoes was boreal ace. it fits the bill for what you're describing: stiff shoe, lots of rubber, etc. I found them incredibly difficult to climb in. Later on, I went to the floppiest slipper I could find and I haven't looked back since. I prefer a sensitive shoe no matter what kind of climbing I'm doing.

Colin: I would have to agree with b_g on the rubber issue. I have hated the rubber on my aces since I started using them. It oxidizes very easily and becomes very hard.

[ This Message was edited by: munckee on 2002-01-14 16:38 ]


mountainrat


Jan 14, 2002, 8:04 PM
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Does anyone know of any good on-line outfits to buy shoes from, or have any feedback about an on-line shoe buying experience, either good or bad?


sonofspork


Jan 14, 2002, 8:15 PM
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I have currently use a pair of 5.10 Ascents. They are great, in my opinion, on everything except face climbing and heel hooking. When face climbing there is not enough support coming from the shoe and on most heel hooks the shoe tends to slip.

-sONofSpORk


clmbngfiend


Jan 14, 2002, 8:54 PM
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I have worked at an outdoor store and i have had great success with the 5.10 Mojaves. They tend to fit a large percentage of the population and they are a great shoe. They are the closest thing to all around shoes out there right now, in my opinion. They have a more agressive last than a lot of beginner/intermediate friendly shoes but they are stiffer than a lot of the sport/gym shoes out there. Obviously try them before buying but they are one of my favorites for the type of climbing that you are going to be doing. Im kinda surprised that nobody mentioned them priviously.
Peace


paintinhaler


Jan 14, 2002, 9:19 PM
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scarpa helix, was my first and a good first shoe and you can get it cheap. Its a good beginner shoe.


extremesport


Jan 15, 2002, 3:36 PM
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Its all going to depend on what you are climbing. if you want something to start with that you can where all day something a little stiff the cliffs work well. if you are jumping into it and want something more tech. the mythos have gotten good reveiws. but if all you do is short climbs, boldering then get something with lots of feel and tight fitting to top. good luck


colin


Jan 15, 2002, 6:10 PM
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Munchkee are you talking about their new rubber? I haven't noticed any problems on my matrixes and I've been beating the crap out of them.


cruzinsouthoc


Jan 15, 2002, 7:23 PM
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If you're a beginner, the highest opinions I've heard from others and read in reviews for new climbers are the 5.10 Spires, Sportiva Cliffs and Scarpa Reflex. Try them all on at a shop and buy the best fit. Each of them will fit your foot differently so no matter which one people think is the 'best' it's gotta fit well. When you get more experience, decide what type of climbing you prefer and completely shred up your first pair of shoes, start looking at those other shoes and select a style that is specific to your type of climbing and of course, fits right.


cruzinsouthoc


Jan 15, 2002, 7:27 PM
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If you're a beginner, the highest opinions I've heard from others and read in reviews for new climbers are the 5.10 Spires, Sportiva Cliffs and Scarpa Reflex. Try them all on at a shop and buy the best fit. Each of them will fit your foot differently so no matter which one people think is the 'best' it's gotta fit well. When you get more experience, decide what type of climbing you prefer and completely shred up your first pair of shoes, start looking at those other shoes and select a style that is specific to your type of climbing and of course, fits right.


clipngo


Jan 15, 2002, 7:40 PM
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Mountainrat, The only online place I have heard of is (I think) climbingshoes.com (or something along those lines.) don't know much about their reputation. Good Luck. Out.

[ This Message was edited by: clipngo on 2002-01-15 19:40 ]


hangerlessbolt


Jan 18, 2002, 9:47 AM
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My first shoes (purchased in '91) were the 5.10 Summits...
Then I got the Boreal Bambas.
Then I got the La Sportiva Aeros
And I recently purchased the 5.10 Mojaves.

The summits fit very nicely without being too tight...I have a relatively low volume foot with a small heel. I had them resoled with the S2 rubber...which I believe is the softest made...Sticks like glue, but wears out fast.
I dislike the Bambas...the heel is way too wide...the rubber has gotten hard and doesn't stick very well.
The Aeros have been a great all day, multi-pitch shoe. I had them resoled with the C4 rubber.
My Mojaves are my favorites...while eye-bulgingly tight...they are the most supportive yet sensitive shoe that I own.


jamnsurf


Jan 18, 2002, 10:39 AM
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FOR SUPER DEALS ON SHOES AND OTHER THINGS GO TO www.sportextreme.com ITS A WEBSITE FROM DENMARK AND THEY HAVE KILLER DEALS ON SHOES!!


colebatch


Jan 19, 2002, 9:53 PM
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Boreal Zephyers.
Whatever the brand buy a beginner shoe, forget the ego, if possible get boardlasted (stiff), thicker rubber (5mm), full midsole, padded tongue.
One of the great myths of climbing is that people tell beginners the shoes should hurt, this is rubbish. your foot should touch the end but toes should not be scrunched. If the shoes hurt in the shop imagine the feeling after a day. Try lots of shoes on.

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