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alpinerocket
Jun 19, 2003, 7:24 PM
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Does any one have any beta on the E. Ridge of the Grand. I am looking at doing it in Aug. I was just up there and there is still alot of snow up high. Thanks for any input. John
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soccer_fan
Jun 19, 2003, 8:32 PM
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If you've got about $15 you can get "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" from Amazon.com - its got just about every route up the mountain. I haven't done the East Ridge, but from the book its got two towers that sounds kinda dicey, "The first short pitch directly up out of the notch is difficult (5.7) and may reqire aid if it is wet. For the next few hunderd feet belay positions are scarce, but ... climbing up to the second tower is not difficult." Depending when you're there some of the scree-covered slabs can be wet.
Hope it helps.
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rockprodigy
Jun 19, 2003, 9:02 PM
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Nice segue:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/....php?p=396771#396771
In reply to: This should be a good show, wether you're planning a Teton climb yourself, or just like to look at pretty pictures. Routes that will be covered include: N. Face, The Grand N. Ridge, The Grand Black Ice Couloir, The Grand Exum Ridge, The Grand East Ridge, The Grand East Ridge, Mt. Owen South Buttres, Mt. Moran Guide's Wall, Storm Mountain Irene's Arete, Dissapointment Peak ...and more!
If you're not there tonight, you better be dead, or in jail, and if you're in jail....BREAK OUT!!!!
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alpinerocket
Jun 20, 2003, 4:17 AM
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I am close to being in Jail . I have to work tonight at the Fire House.
I do have 2 guides on the Tetons, I was looking for info from someone who has done the route. Thanks, John
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pfc-monty
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Jun 27, 2003, 10:24 PM
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John,
I am interested in doing satan's corner in Little Cottonwood but, I am not sure if I am competent enough at placing pro. Are you interested in teaming up for it. If you want to do something shorter or go cragging first to see if we can stand each other I understand. PM me. If you need a reference talk to Climbinganne about me. Thanks Kurt
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alpinerocket
Jun 28, 2003, 4:54 PM
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Sure I will climb with ya, What are your days off? Me? I climb in the morning on week days, days off vary according to my schedual. I will be climbing tuesday with another if you want to join us around 0900 or a little latter. John
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pfc-monty
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Jul 5, 2003, 8:32 PM
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Hey John I was in So Cal for a most of last week so I didn't get a chance to hop online. How about the 14th or 15th of July. To climb on a weekday I gotta have some time to get the day off.
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alpinerocket
Jul 7, 2003, 4:53 PM
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Sorry I am out of town then. How about the 17th or 19th or 21st
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verticalturtle
Jul 29, 2003, 9:17 PM
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Did the route a few years ago, and I have talked with others that have done the route in a bit different style. I was there a few weeks ago doing another route. If the snow stays there till agugst you ar elucky as it will help you. In any case the route finding can be tricky. Just pay attention around the towers. There really is not any amazing climbing (sorry it's true) the views are good, the rock is poor (on this route), and the main reason to do it is that it is the longest route in the range. If you have any specific questions PM me or call the Jenny Lake ranger station. This is the only outfit where the rangers actually climb and can give you good beta.
VT
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johnnywel
Jul 29, 2003, 10:55 PM
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I just climbed the ridge this weekend (Sun. 27th) and the conditions were good. Instead of doing the Southern Traverse variation on the Molar tooth we stayed high and did the 5.7 tricky traverse variation which avoids rapping into the snow/ice filled gully and climbing up to the chockstone. This variation works well. We only had up to BD#2 in our rack and wished we had larger on the wide section. Anyway, the route finding is tricky from the tooth to the 2nd tower. The move out of the notch by the molar tooth seems a bit harder than 5.7 but you can aid off of fixed slings and pitons. Just keep going up until you see a ridge that is heading left (south facing) and head up to the high point on this ridge, there is a notch between the 2nd tower and a small gendarme? is what I think they call it. Anyway, beyond this the snow can be mostly avoided by climbing near the edge of the north face right of the snowfield. We crossed the snow and headed up the left side of the summit block. A good climb and very long. We bivied at the moraine for a few hours and continued to the top and then down Garnet which avoids having to go back and clean up camp. Verticalturtle is right in that most of the route is loose but some of the climbing is ggod.
Anyway, good luck and I hope this isn't too much beta. This is my first time posting and I'm not sure what you were looking for.
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brianinslc
Jul 29, 2003, 11:11 PM
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Beta...hmmm....lets see....
We belayed around 20 pitches (hey, 'cause we could...).
Bivied up from the scramble from the left edge of the moraine (a tad further left than you might think to a well worn social trail) below the starting chimney and below a snowfield we used for water. Nice spot, big enough for 4 with bivy gear. Great views of the Red Sentinel (put that little spire on your list of stuff to do on a short day in Garnet Canyon!).
Carried over (highly recommended for a couple of reasons...). Go light. No stove or share with another party. Bivy sack only. Sleep in clothes. Pack will only be an extra 8oz heavier with all "that" bivy gear (har har). I think mid summer its "usually" pretty warm up there. Felt like low 50's, so, no problemo with just a bivy sack.
I think there's snow or ice year round, so, snow is good mid season as its a bunch easier to kick steps in than wear crampons and less skatey too. Makes the goin' faster.
Do the tricky traverse variation. Super fun.
Don't be afraid of "lowering" the route to your abilities by pullin' on the sling on the pin(s) at the chockstone. Man, that move looks harder than 5.9... (5.6 A0...yee haa!). Pin does kinda creak...but...goes fast it you don't futz with it.
Finish straight up the cracks/chimneys on the upper edge of the summit snowfield (that big one you can see from the bar at Dornan's...best durn alpine view...). That way you can see the historic tin cans from the ol' fellers. The crack and chimney system, although maybe a tad harder than the guidebook claims (a sandbag in the Teton's? Whodathunk?), is super fun (maybe one spot of unprotected 5.7ish) and the finish puts you on the very upper end of the north ridge. "Follow obvious weaknesses" (always liked that description)...to the summit.
Lets see, what else... Light rack. Axe. Maybe light crampons. One light rope (we used an 8.1mm 60m single). We took boots and you might could (Utah speak) do most of the climbing in them, but, I used rock shoes and they were nice and made the climbing cruisy. Which, with approach shoes, makes for a bulky pack...(hey! A feller's gotta have shoe choices...).
Route finding wasn't too bad. Pay attention to where you are (I know this sounds obvious but, some folks outclimb there whereabouts sometimes). If you remember (or consult the photocopy of the route description) which side of each tower you need to pass on, it helps a bunch. Like, left left right. And, I seem to recall, at the notch below the second tower (like, right below as in you're touching the tower really), you move thru and can either rappel or down climb. Either is fine, but, if cornfused, just rappel down and then hike up to the base of the upper edge of the tower. Some folks get a tad wigged on the next pitch. Pro is not so good, it can be wet, and its a bit exposed. Don't worry, "its all there" (always liked that one too). Run it out and you'll eventually get to a decent belay spot. Then another short bit and you hit the snow. Kick good steps, enjoy the view off the right edge (eeek!), and finish on rock straight up. Super!
What worked great for us, you can get up early in Utah, drive saturday morn, check in, get bivy permit, and hike to high camp that day. Then finish the route and hike out the following day. Easy money.
What I wouldn't suggest is starting up the route in bad weather. Also, please consider wearin' a helmit. A friend got evac'd earlier this year up there from being hit by random rockfall...so, be careful. Start summit day early and go go go....
Have mo' beta if'n you need...let me know what. Super climb.
Brian in SLC
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alpinerockfiend
Jul 29, 2003, 11:24 PM
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In reply to: Beta...hmmm....lets see.... We belayed around 20 pitches (hey, 'cause we could...).
Jesus, belayed 20 pitches??? What sort of mountaineer are you, anyway? :)
In reply to: I think there's snow or ice year round, so, snow is good mid season as its a bunch easier to kick steps in than wear crampons and less skatey too. Makes the goin' faster.
I have not been on the route- I have spent tons of time on the Garnet peaks, on snow, above 11,000' ft. this season, and there will be no need for crampons for at least another couple of weeks. An axe and good boots will suffice.
In reply to: What I wouldn't suggest is starting up the route in bad weather. Also, please consider wearin' a helmit. A friend got evac'd earlier this year up there from being hit by random rockfall...so, be careful. Start summit day early and go go go....
His name is Matt, right? Porters for Exum? What an intense fellow! I met him once last year in Avalanche Canyon. He was crossing the ranging creek that drains in in early season, on a horrifyingly mossy old log. With a gigantor pack on his shoulders! I've seen him out at Moosely Seconds at Dornan's doing incredible numbers of pullups as well. Wow.
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brianinslc
Jul 29, 2003, 11:49 PM
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In reply to: Jesus, belayed 20 pitches??? What sort of mountaineer are you, anyway? :)
A living one...
In reply to: I have not been on the route- I have spent tons of time on the Garnet peaks, on snow, above 11,000' ft. this season, and there will be no need for crampons for at least another couple of weeks. An axe and good boots will suffice.
Yeah...and can always chop steps (ugh). I have a lightweight pair (the camp aluminum ones). My thought, cheap insurance. Long way to go to find out it got icey... But, your probably right. Pretty warm as of late (was on the lower saddle this last saturday...pretty...uhh...interesting...).
Actually, some stuff was lookin' icy. "Harry's Highway" fer instance. Some parts of the middle Teton glacier too (bare ice pokin' through). Your call.
In reply to: His name is Matt, right? Porters for Exum? What an intense fellow! I met him once last year in Avalanche Canyon. He was crossing the ranging creek that drains in in early season, on a horrifyingly mossy old log. With a gigantor pack on his shoulders! I've seen him out at Moosely Seconds at Dornan's doing incredible numbers of pullups as well. Wow.
Yep. Ol' climbing pard o' mine. If you see him say hi and to give a jingle.
Strong laddy...used to be a bit larger even. Shoot, I'm a 100 kilo's and three of us used to go to Maple together to crag...and I was the smallest guy by 30 pounds!
I feel bad for him. Hope he's healin' fine. Missed him last ice season...
Brian in SLC
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alpinerockfiend
Jul 31, 2003, 12:42 AM
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So Matt is from SLC area, eh? I've heard from a lot of people that he's been trying to get his foot in the door with Exum for a number of years, what gives? He's obviously one of their strongest employees.
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oldclimber51
Aug 9, 2003, 4:09 AM
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Watch the weather. August is the worst time in the Tetons for early afternoon (say 12:00 PM) thunderstorms which can last all afternoon. Been there, been really scared. The mountain can hide them and they sneak over the top to catch you on the ridge.
Dennis
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alpinerockfiend
Aug 9, 2003, 6:35 PM
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There was a climber killed by a lightning strike on the Exum in late July during an afternoon thunderstorm. Clouds have built up pretty much every day here for the last 1.5-2 weeks.
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oldclimber51
Aug 13, 2003, 5:10 AM
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We had reservations that weekend for two nights on the Moraine. I pulled the plug Friday morning after looking at the weather forecast. I know of two parties that walked out Saturday morning rather than head up. They said it stormed all night Friday and was still rumbling Saturday morning.
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alpinerocket
Aug 13, 2003, 9:37 PM
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we are changing plans this week and have decided to just crag around. we are going to stay at the climbers ranch and hit some multipitch classics and return to the ranch each night for warm food and cold beer.
I want to thank every one for thier beta on the E. Ridge, but due to the recent storm activity and my limited time up there, I would rather do day trips or less involved routes (mt owen or the middle teton).
John
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