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hojo
Jun 20, 2003, 6:04 PM
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I'm going to Vegas June 26-29 and need partners for red rocks. We stick around the 5.8's to 5-10. We had a group and all but three of us bailed out last night. We've already booked the room (2 bedroom suite) so if you're interested let me know. The room is $20-$30 each for the weekend depending on how many come.
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jt512
Jun 20, 2003, 6:43 PM
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Ignoring the fact that that it's going to be 110 degrees in Vegas, don't you think you might have a little better luck finding a partner if you posted things like your name, age, gender, years of climbing experience, contact information, and whether you planned to trad or sport climb?
-Jay
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climbs4fun
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Jun 20, 2003, 6:43 PM
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I live in Vegas, but let me know if you need a climbing partner while you are here.
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hojo
Jun 20, 2003, 10:42 PM
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Umm... yeah I guess that'd be good info to post. There's three of us going now, 2 24/m and 1 21/f. I've been climbing mostly in the gym (2-3 times a week) for two years and just got into sport climbing a month or so ago. the others have been climbing for maybe four months. I don't think we're ready for trad yet, so we'll only be doing sport 5.8-5.10. you can email me at millsu2@yahoo.com if interested.
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mauriceb
Jun 21, 2003, 12:48 AM
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You may want to send Mark, VBCSS, a PM. I've climbed with him before and had a good time. He lives in LV.
You may also, want to post this in the Western States forum since you are heading West. Better chance of LV locals seeing it
Find some SHADE :!: :!: :!:
maurice
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hojo
Jun 24, 2003, 6:24 AM
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Thanks! It'd be nice to have a local with us to show us around, too.
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ikefromla
Jun 24, 2003, 8:32 AM
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you're climbing experience is limited, you only lead up to 5.10 sport, and you've booked a two-room suite in vegas... in late june. ??? you're fuck ed my friend... quite frankly. I spend my summers in vegas. in fact, i'm in vegas right now. but the only good climbing around here in the summer is mt. charleston and clark mt. neither are even worth it if you don't climb 5.12... well you might be able to get in a couple days worth of fun at mt. charleston if you climb 11. but that's it. i'm not getting down on you dude, but in the future, do some research about where you're going before you book your room... cuz vegas is brutally hot right now, and going to red rock(s) could be suicide.
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jt512
Jun 24, 2003, 3:53 PM
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In reply to: you're climbing experience is limited, you only lead up to 5.10 sport, and you've booked a two-room suite in vegas... in late june. ??? you're f___ ed my friend... quite frankly.
Those were my thoughts. Most of the sport climbing in Red Rocks is in the sun, making it all but unclimbable in the summer, and Charlston and Clark aren't for newbies. If he's committed to this trip, I wonder if the Black Corridor in Red Rocks would be climbable, since it gets a lot of shade. Anybody know?
-Jay
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bdawg
Jun 24, 2003, 4:19 PM
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hojo, I would see if you can cancel that room, first of all you said that most of your group cancelled out already, and then second, its going to be hot as hell down there. Everyone is right, red rocks would be the only place you could climb at your level, and its directly in the sun.
If your leaving the utah county area I will assume that you live there.. therefore you should just stay up here and hit american fork canyon. Its supposed to be 87 degrees and sunny there this weekend so it would be perfect. There are so many awesome areas to climb up there also. You could even go do some bouldering up in LCC if you wanted to. I'd show you some cool areas to go, but I will be in Zion this weekend.
Yea the atmosphere up here in utah is not nearly as much fun as it would be in vegas, but seriously dude, you gotta get your priorities straight... its all about climbing :)
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ambler
Jun 24, 2003, 4:20 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: you're climbing experience is limited, you only lead up to 5.10 sport, and you've booked a two-room suite in vegas... in late june. ??? you're f___ ed my friend... quite frankly. Those were my thoughts. Most of the sport climbing in Red Rocks is in the sun, making it all but unclimbable in the summer, and Charlston and Clark aren't for newbies. If he's committed to this trip, I wonder if the Black Corridor in Red Rocks would be climbable, since it gets a lot of shade. Anybody know?
Well, there is a small amount of easy sport up on Charleston -- enough to keep you entertained for a day or two. I don't have a guidebook handy, but recall a few 5.8-5.10 sport routes up around the Hood, e.g. Charleston 10b, Cut Your Hair Sister, and some others. Not the area's best lines, but more fun than toasting your brain in the lowlands.
The Wake Up Wall near the Sandstone Quarry area at RR has afternoon shade, with mostly 5.11 routes IIRC. Some first and second pullout crags will have early-morning shade, so you can chase the shade with a midday siesta. I've done that.
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mbondvegas
Jun 24, 2003, 4:24 PM
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You might be able to tolerate the heat in the Black Corridor, Good Luck! If you want to climb trad, Ice Box Canyon will probably be ok as well as shady routes elsewhere like dark shadows.
If you find Red Rocks to be TOO hot, which you probably will, take a look at the "islands in the sky" guidebook and get the beta down for "Pirates Cove" on Mt. Charleston. It is not the super good white limestone that charleston is known for but it has a few good 5.10's and easy 11's that are well bolted and pretty fun.
The two 10a's in the guide are good. The left one is really good. Huge Jugs the whole way.
The two steep 11B's on the left are worth a try even if you usually only climb 10+ or so, as they are short and follow the biggest jugs you will ever pull on.
There is one additional route there that I put up last year. It is 20 feet left of the two 5.11D's on the far left side of the crag. It is probably 10C and the crux is in the first 10 feet, after that it's about 5.9-. It has 6 bolts and 2 fixe' ring anchors.
Also look for Yellow Pine Cliff & Mary Jane Crag. The two 10's at Yellow Pine Cliff are really good! The Left one is probably the best 10A I have done, anywhere! The right one is pretty good too. Mary Jane crag has a 5.8 bolted route but it pretty much sucks. It also has a 5.10a on the far left (it's OK) and a really fun but kinda' hard 10B on the far right. The 11B just left of the 10B is an absolute classic and worth a try for sure!
The Hood and other areas are a waste of your time if you can't climb 11+ or to be quite honest mid 12.
Hope this helps! and have fun.
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ricardol
Jun 24, 2003, 4:56 PM
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dont forget crymson chrysalis at red rocks -- that route is in the shade almost all day -- (and i froze my balls off in april on that route) ..
.. you'll need to lead trad though ..
-- ricardo
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ikefromla
Jun 24, 2003, 5:11 PM
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jay suggested the black corridor.. it will be hot, but i used to climb there in the summer when i was young and stupid. we got to a point where we could do every climb in the corridor (minus fool effect, because we couldn't climb 12) between the hours of 6 am and noon. but it's hot as a mofo. mbond's suggestions of pirates cove and mary jane are one's that didn't even come to mind.... though both crags are half decent. hope your trip isn't a wash.
peace
ike
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vegastradguy
Jun 24, 2003, 5:47 PM
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i know of a couple of places you can play if you wanna climb some moderate sport in the summer.
panty wall and magic bus stay in the shade until about 11ish, and it wont be too bad until then. both have lots of moderate sport routes.
also, the corridor and other places in the 1st and 2nd pullouts shouldnt be too bad before noon.
pm me if you have any more questions.
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hojo
Jun 26, 2003, 8:08 AM
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Thanks for all the help, I know it'll be hot but that doesn't bother me, I'm used to it (except the sweaty hands don't help much). We actually did cancel the room, but only because we decided to go for a cheaper one. We'll probably come back later this year when it's cooler so we can climb longer, and hopefully more difficult routes. This trip turned out to be more just for fun than a serious climbing trip.
I can lead up to 11b now, but I don't really trust myself on those. I don't know any experienced climbers, so I'm thinking I'll probably take a class now to help get me climbing 12's and 13's.
Oh, and bdawg, nice signature. Lookin' good Homestar!
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jt512
Jun 26, 2003, 3:45 PM
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In reply to: I can lead up to 11b now, but I don't really trust myself on those. I don't know any experienced climbers, so I'm thinking I'll probably take a class now to help get me climbing 12's and 13's.
Actually, to get to 13s you might have to take two classes.
-Jay
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screamer
Jul 1, 2003, 9:46 PM
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holy shite, that made me laugh...can i take 3 classes and climb 14... :lol:
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hojo
Jul 2, 2003, 11:53 PM
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I'm impressed at how much help I got from here, this forum is awesome!
Anyway the trip turned out great, lots of fun. We stayed in the black corridor and it wasn't hot at all except in the afternoons. After climbing we spent the rest of the day wandering around the other canyons. It was kinda nice, because on Thursday we didn't run into any other people at all. I went up Rock canyon yesterday and there were tons of people up there. It was like climbing at a gym on saturday night.
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