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how long the bolt can survive
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strongerthanall


Jan 17, 2002, 11:02 PM
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Registered: Dec 25, 2001
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how long the bolt can survive
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i still a little bit confuse about this tools. If it's already stuck in rock it is possible to pull it out.
If it can, how long it can be survive ?


Partner rrrADAM


Jan 18, 2002, 12:49 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Too many parameters to quantify a bolts longevity...

It's a mechanical device that once placed acts as active pro in tension, and passive in shear.

But it all depends on bolt material, carbon steel corrodes, stainless steel does not.

Rock type is the major factor to deal with... Softer rocks allow the bolt to move more and more with each load, incrementally till it fails.

Climate, humidity and rain, also help to degrade the placement. This is why silicone is put at the interface between bolt and rock.

Proper placement will allow a bolt to last a long time, but they are often placed by people not adept at it. Therefore, they will last an appreciably shorter life span.


~Adam



jackmguirk


Jan 18, 2002, 6:15 AM
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a lot of climbing areas are now using glue in bolts for the most part (atleast the ones at rumney) these are resident forever totally bombproof, however ones placed in sandstone have a much shortet life especially bolts on the cruxes of popular routes that see tons of falls.......


kelownaclimber


Jan 18, 2002, 6:30 AM
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I would say on average you can expect a bolt to survive roughly 15 years....especially crux bolts.After that replacment is a good option for high traffic routes.As Adam said though there are too many parameters....did the person place it right?has it seen a nasty fall?has someone tapped it with a pin hammer to see if it "sounds good"?(which is VERY BAD FOR THE BOLT)by the way.The best tool you have for climbing is your head,use your own judgement and please if you have very little experience climb with someone that does!!!!


Partner rrrADAM


Jan 18, 2002, 3:08 PM
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Here's a related thread with a lot of details...

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=3153&forum=40&61


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