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favorite texture for training?
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xanx


Jul 5, 2003, 9:53 PM
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Registered: Aug 5, 2002
Posts: 1002

favorite texture for training?
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ok what do u all perfer for training? silky smooth texture or a good texture u can really settle into?

here are some pros and cons of each as i see it...

smooth
pros
promotes good contact strength
doesn't rip up ur tips so u can train more often with less pain
makes u feel like u are cheating if u grab a good textured hold
cons
u can't pull on holds as bad as with good texture, so really bad slopey holds could surprise u, even if they have good texture
i doubt all of the struggling to hold onto these holds translates directly to strength - sometimes it is a matter of friction - u can keep ur fingers closed on a hold, but the friction just might not be there, so a lot of the struggling could be pointless.
prolly doesn't build very good callouses
because the holds are harder to hold onto, u can't build as much power for big moves

textured
pros
lets u crank on really crappy holds so u get used to them
maybe builds callouses? (not really but...)
lets u work harder stuff, so not only can u build contact strength, but good power as well.
cons
shredding of the tips - "cheese grater hands"
if u go to a place with really slick holds u may have a lot of trouble... (u get complacent)

i think personally i like textured stuff (Pusher) rather than super smooth (So Ill holds). it is just not fun to keep sliding off of those So Ill slopers... i get more satisfaction doing hard moves off of the pusher holds (and they have their own bad slopers...the difference is that they are good hold, just hard to hold onto... The Boss...)

opinions?


solid


Jul 6, 2003, 5:26 PM
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Registered: Jun 20, 2003
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Re: favorite texture for training? [In reply to]
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my woody is made up of mostly oak holds...very smooth and promote hella good contact strength for slopers.

the crimpers though, those are usually textured a bit since i think it's better to train the strength rather than the tech for the tiny crimps.

i'll give this a more detailed reply later...


ikefromla


Jul 6, 2003, 5:37 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Re: favorite texture for training? [In reply to]
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they're good for different things. obviously. my favorites are pusher, so ill, and voodoo.


collegekid


Jul 6, 2003, 8:27 PM
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Re: favorite texture for training? [In reply to]
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i'm dealing with this right now...

Has anyone tried putting grip tape (like for a skate board) on wooden holds to make them grippy? I'm considering doing this so that i can make some decent slopers on my woody.

It seems like slopers HAVE to have some sort of texture...otherwise you simply won't stick to them.


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