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jer
Jan 18, 2002, 5:08 PM
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This forum does not make sense. The most useful piece of trad gear is what works for a specific placement on a specific kind of rock, on a specific type of route. Most usefull type of trad gear for a fingertip crack? Nuts. Most usefull type of gear for an horrendous long bloodbath offwidth? Big Bro's and/or large cams. Most usefull type of Trad gear for small, round pockets? Tricams. Most usefull type of trad gear for slabs? a hook and a hand drill...
It's usefullness depends on the rock and the route, specifically. Most usefull for climbing a brick building? Duct Tape and skyhooks.
jer
[ This Message was edited by: jer on 2002-01-18 09:11 ]
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pianomahnn
Jan 18, 2002, 6:31 PM
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Why does this forum not make sense? Or did you mean, "This thread does not make sense? Even so, what is the point of your posting this?
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gumby
Jan 18, 2002, 7:02 PM
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The point?
I think the point was made very clearly. All he's saying is that gear is to be used situationally. The most useful piece of trad gear is whatever works in a given situation. Jer even made specific references to different instances where a piece would be most useful.
Good post jer!
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jer
Jan 18, 2002, 8:12 PM
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Yes Pianomahhn, I was reffering to the Topic, and or "Thread"...or for that matter- spefically, the "Poll".
Why did I post it? Why does anybody post their rambling drivled opinions across this site? Because they are bored and chock full of usefull information. I don't see the poll as usefull, because there are too many variables to determine the most USEFULL piece of gear. They are all usefull...the most usefull? the one you need at the end of a 40 foot runout on a single pitch route with a base strewn in boulders. That piece is my favorite.
And to Gumby: thank you sir...you made my drivel all worthwhile.
A suggestion for a forum question instead? How about this:
"Trad Gear that you most want to place when trembling on lead; runout and out of chalk, envisioning your mother back at home?"
a. cam/active gear
b. nuts/passive gear
c. big bro or large cam
d. lasso a horn above your head w/your rope
e. removable bolt hole
(note:pianomahhn...this is humor)
Jer
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jules
Jan 18, 2002, 8:19 PM
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I've seen this confusion before, where someone posts something in response to a poll and does not specify that is what he/she is doing. The person simply assumes we will all just know.
No offense or anything, you didn't know, but I wanted the point to be made.
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i.karen
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Jan 18, 2002, 9:10 PM
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Jer,
You do have a good point!! My husband loves to place stoppers but sometimes you can't. Do to the situation, the type of rock or the route.
Karen
PS D)lasso a horn above your head w/rope
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hangerlessbolt
Jan 18, 2002, 9:30 PM
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"One's mind is the best protection a climber has...trad or otherwise... "
~~~Hippy~~~
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offwidthclimber
Jan 18, 2002, 10:53 PM
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how about a f---ing rope?
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beyond_gravity
Jan 19, 2002, 3:57 AM
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I think this means what type of gear you use mainley, so if your staring a rack, What main type of gear should you concintrate on using? and dont say get an equal banlce, because god knows I can't have a balence between $8 nuts and hex, and $60 cams
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kagunkie
Jan 19, 2002, 7:17 AM
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It's better than wich movie "rocks"
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kagunkie
Jan 19, 2002, 7:19 AM
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Cams and nuts oh yeah! Although i think we should have included pitons too. Nothing like the sound of a good pin.
[ This Message was edited by: kagunkie on 2002-01-18 23:21 ]
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fiend
Jan 19, 2002, 7:32 AM
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ok, here's how the polls get set up:
I think of something to put up...
I end up not being able to think of anything...
I ask anyone who is around, I ask in the chat room, I may have asked in the forum before as well...
No-one has any ideas....
I make something silly at the last minute.
Don't like it? Well from now on I think there should be a rule that if you are going to bitch and moan about how something sucks then you have to provide an alternative suggestion.
Also, the question field is limited to a certain amount of text so the poll...
What piece of pro does jer use most when he's on pitch 7 of Lunar Extacy in Zion National park in the middle of april 2001?
probably won't fit in there
My intention for this poll was simply what gear do you find you use the most, it doesn't matter where, it doesn't matter why. It's just a silly poll
Sooooo.... any suggestions for the next poll?
[ This Message was edited by: fiend on 2002-01-18 23:35 ]
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natec
Jan 19, 2002, 7:47 AM
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Here's a genuine answer. I feel that the best pieces on my rack are my hexes (rockcentrics with dyneema slings), they are my favorite to place wherever and whenever anyway. I get the fastest and most solid placements with my hexes.
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icthos
Jan 20, 2002, 7:15 PM
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how about the following:
who has been the most influential in your climbing?
what was your first climbing purchase?
how far have you driven overnight to climb the next day?
if peter piper picked a peck of pickled peppers, is he a sport, trad, boulder, or aid climber?
i don't know. just trying to throw out some ideas.
BTW, i don't have the foggiest clue which type of pro is the most useful, as i've never placed any. still need to get money to buy my own rope.
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ravens_wing_jim
Jan 20, 2002, 11:23 PM
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Peter Piper's dead,
because the pickled pepper was poor pro.
[ This Message was edited by: ravens_wing_jim on 2002-01-20 15:25 ]
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jeepmonkey
Jan 21, 2002, 4:38 AM
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The question is not entirely useless. With the variety of pro on the market it would be helpful to hear from some of the experienced climbers about what they find the most useful. It may depend on the climbing area, hell I don't know.
I've climbed with rrrAdam: he uses nuts on most everything in Joshua, with a quick draw.
I've climbed with my buddy Troy: he learned years ago and uses hexes, slinging each with webbing (which I hate).
Then I see others climb and all they have on their rack are cams.
So you experienced climbers, what's the most useful in the most circumstances (given that you mind is in the right place...Hangerless)?
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pirateclimber
Jan 21, 2002, 7:14 AM
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Well, it's been said and I agree. The best piece of pro is your head, ie. experience. A mankey placement will be just that regardless of what you are using.
I use mainly wired hexentrics, stoppers on leads in J Tree and Red Rocks. Cams occasionally. Passive won’t walk, over/under cam, umbrella, is lighter, maintenance free, and much cheaper compared to cams and if seated correctly is the essence of bomber. IMO if you can place passive well you can place anything.
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artm
Jan 25, 2002, 4:53 PM
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I've climbed with Pirateclimber and he's touting passive gear because he doesn't own any slcd's. IMHO not much beats a bomber Nut placement. But I do love my aliens!
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