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question about pro.
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assault_climber


Jan 19, 2002, 8:56 PM
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question about pro.
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can some one tell me what all the different types of pro are, and their differences. In the style of climbing I do (military mountaineering) I've only ever used hexes (we call 'em trashcans), so I'm kinda confused about what all the other types of pro are.

Thanks

[ This Message was edited by: assault_climber on 2002-01-19 20:57 ]


beyond_gravity


Jan 19, 2002, 9:17 PM
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Hexs, Nuts, Cams (SLCD's) and Pitons.

Nuts= Angled Metal that u jam in a crack.
Cam= A Spring Loaded device, when you place it in a crack, and pull down on it, it expands and jams itself in.

Pitons= Nails that u hammer in a crack


scotia


Jan 19, 2002, 9:49 PM
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Pitons are best form of protection but they mess up the rock royally. Cams are the best form of none "vandalizing" protection, but they all have their uses.


saltspringer


Jan 19, 2002, 10:26 PM
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scotia: get real! Pitons are one of the worst forms of pro for freeclimbing for holding ability as well as for damage to rock: a well placed nut can hold a huge whipper without any doubt as to it's strength when placed properly in good rock.

As for the initial question: nuts (AKA stoppers, rocks, chocks, etc...) are like down-sized, solid (some hollow), rectangular hexes insomuch as they're made of aluminum and are meant to be placed in constrictions in the cracks in a rock face. Spring Loaded Camming Devices, SLCD's (AKA cams, camming devices, Friends, TCU's, Camalots) are mainly used as active pro (their strength is engaged under a load) and are the modern replacements for Hexes in parallel sided cracks; as you may have experienced, hexes can be "cammed" into a parallel sided slot in a crack in two different configurations or can be slotted "endwise" where they're tapered to fit in a slight constriction in a crack. So, hexes act like a traditional nut one way and a modern cam in another but, unfortunately, not much can be substituted for a piton other than a bolt drilled into the rock. So, if you'd like to see a cam, check the Gallery under "artistic" and look for a picture named "Good Friends are Hard to Find", other than that, check out Petzl, Black Diamond, Metolius or Wild Country's web sites for comprehensive descriptions and pictures of an assortment of modern gear including all of the above plus tri-cams, ballnuts, etc...


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